New wiring harness help

[NVFJ60]

While tearing down my drivetrain and waiting for my springs to be shipped I’ve decided to dive into the absolute rats nest that is my wiring. The PO had more crap spliced and taped and abandoned than you could possibly imagine. Plugs not being used and multiple wires leading to the same device spliced into hot wires with scotch locks twice. Cut wires sitting open ended with no protection. It’s just a total mess and I’m surprised it hasn’t burnt down. I’m a total novice at wiring. I’ve ever even wired up a stereo. So tackling this is somewhat daunting.
So I’ve started pulling wires one at a time, tracing them in out and deleting them. I’ve taken off miles of dried out non sticky tape and old brittle wire loom. Most of it just falls off and exposes wires that are pretty brittle themselves. So I’m thinking that maybe it would just be easier and safer to start new. Buy an aftermarket wiring harness. I’d love some feedback on which is best. I’ve seen Painless and JT and EZ. Are there any others that are better. I know Coolerman does it but he’s not taking orders until fall and I’d like to get rolling while I wait for the springs to show. How easy are the to install and dies that mean I can just go to town with the dykes and cut this crap out of it? For reference their isn’t much Toyota left on the FJ40. Small block Chevy, stock heater is gone, stereo is gone, no cig lighters, no dome lights, what’s left are the headlights running lights, turn signals brake lights, fuel gauge, wiper washer, horn, aux lights, aftermarket heater.
Thank you.

 

[S4Cruiser]

I recently finished (mostly) wiring a 40 from scratch with a painless kit. It wasn't hard but definitely a royal pita. My truck is still mainly Toyota so the painless instructions for the turn / brake / hazards is not correct. I followed diagrams from coolermans site to essentially rebuild these circuits perToyota switch requirements.

If using a gm type column with generic gm based switches it would've been much less time consuming.

I also went way overboard and ran most if not all my aux switches from a separate fuse block with relays which are activated via a separate and large relay tied to ignition ACC.

If doing it over I would likely not go painless but some other less expensive generic harness. A huge plus is having the wires labeled. I would also go with the smaller of the circuit boxes if using an aux panel with relays for your accessories. Finally I would run every wire and zip tie the runs only before wrapping. I wasted tons of time redoing s*** after changes / troubleshooting.

 

[NVFJ60]

Thanks for the advice. My turn signals, headlights, wipers, and brake lights are the only thing left Toyota but that’s not to say I can’t switch them differently. Yes I’m converting over to the Ididit GM column so I’m going to have to move the ignition to the dash from the column. Which is fine. I’m thinking of installing some sort of total disconnect switch as well.

 

[Mace]

If you go with a GM style column the wiring is much easier. I have used the EZ wiring a couple times in the past. Seems like a good kit.

 

[74fj40]

I used the EZ harness on my 40 with a GM tilt column. Was not too bad at all. As mentioned it’s extremely convienient to have all the wires prelabled.

 

[mr jits]

I honestly think it's easier to buy a couple of blue sea fuse blocks and a couple of relays and wire the circuits individually. I've rewired three 40's now, and going the blue sea route vs painless is much simpler IME.

 

[NVFJ60]

Thanks guys. I’m looking st the EZ kit. Like I said I’m a total novice at wiring and attempting to buy the components separately and wire it up would require an inkling of know how and I ain’t got dat!