New to me 80 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 19, 2008
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Location
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www.phalconoverland.com
After a very unfortunate roll at Pismo, the Adventure Falcones are back with a 1994 VX Limited 80 series. I am not sure what makes a VX a VX but it appears to be fairly loaded and everything works. Now to benchmark before the long road of modification begins.

It has 207k miles, no factory lockers, interior is in good condition, and the AC is ice cold. The paint is peeling so I am thinking that sand dune tan bed liner / paint in its future.

20161123_153739_zps4gqecdwb.jpg


Frank
 
is that a US model? the VX was a nonusa model with the HD-T engine and base configuration (no ice box in the center console) Either way it is a great rig! I love the body cladding on the doors like the 40th anniversary and Collectors Editions in '97.
 
As far as I can tell from vehicle history, it was sold and spent its life in LA.

Frank
 
Nice rig Frank. We're great at spending other people's money so let us know how we can help!
 
I just noticed the hood ornament! Either someone added some non Usa parts to that rig or you have a super rare truck! Nice find! I built an 80 a few years back so let me know when you need some wrenching help!

Kraig
 
I totally dig that hood ornament. I will definitely solicit and take any build advice.

Right now my plan is 35's, 4.88's, rear ARB locker with on board air.
 
Congrats, I think you will like the 80 more than your 60. Interesting add on's. From first look, the trim, hood ornament, and front bumper do not look US domestic market items. Maybe as stated above, they are add on from a Canadian model or brought back items from overseas. The VX was not available in the US as far as I know. 1994 was also a partial transition year on some parts, so it will be interesting to see what it has. Front drive plates changed mid year, changed to full float rear axel and disc rears with ABS, I think ABS and air bags were options, and I think AC changed from R-12 this year.

You can add the center diff lock switch with a simple pug and play button already wired. Lots of other mods to consider. You will definitely want to look at the bolt on roof rack, they used sheet metal screws at the port to install, many have rusted out. And you will want to check the pesky heater hose for any potential failure. Its located under the intake and is prone to failure and a pain to replace. You also want to check the radiator for cracks in the plastic tank top and flush the system if it has green coolant. The original red Toyota coolant doesn't not mix well with conventional green and often clogs the ports when mixed. Cooling on these must be maintained well since the 4.5 was prone to head gasket failure at the number 6 cylinder.
 
Could you PM me the VIN? I can look it up to see what market and model Toyota thinks your truck is... Super curious now about this beast!

Either way, you got a good one and one that will be night and day to your 60!
 
PM sent.

The truck has a new radiator, battery, and tires.

This truck has ABS but no air bags, it has the older style dash.

I drove it to Long Beach and back to San Diego today and got 16 MPG. That blows away my 60 even when it was stock. I wil enjoy it while I can since I am quite sure lifted on 35's will be more like 13-14MPG.

Frank
 
I drove it to Long Beach and back to San Diego today and got 16 MPG.

Once you start adding tires, bumpers, etc., that MPG will drop dramatically. Expect ~12.5 on the highway (long trips may yield 13) and 10.5 - 11 on the street. I've been logging every fill up for the past 2-3 years so I have a pile of data to back that number.
 
I had a ARBed, on 34s, stock geared and roof rack (low profile) that got 16 on the highway, but I have a granny foot and the gearing probably helped a bit. The best thing about TLCs is that they tend to get the same mileage when empty and loaded to the hilt as long as you don't try to drive it the same...
 
I can imagine that keeping the torque converter locked on the highway will be harder. I got around that on my 94 4runner by under gearing it which kept the trans cool and made me really have to lean into it to get the torque converter to unlock on the highway.
 
I am getting 11-12 on highway with stock gears and loaded at best, Greg and Barney got nearly identical mileage on our last long haul trip to death valley with cruise control set at 65-70. I get as low as 9-10 consistently with a heavy foot in traffic and up and down the hills. Funny part is with 35's my actual mph are only off by 1 1/2 mph at 65 verified by gps and radar signs. Many claim the need to change the speedo gear to correct. Not sure if that effects odometer readings but mine seem to be nearly spot on compared to gps. I plan to send the fuel injectors for cleaning soon and check the timing with the hope of getting a bit more miles out of it. With this in mind you can only get about 250 miles on a tank of gas, which is why many carry cans or add a sub tank when in BAJA or long hauls away from fuel.
 
If you regear, your speedo should be very close. Gears and tires?
 
I did not re-gear yet and my speedo seems to be just as accurate as before, just 1.5 mph off the other direction if I recall correctly. I would like to re-gear to 4.88's someday, it's just not in the priority column at the moment. Mine is definitely sluggish and especially at altitude while climbing in low. Of course I can only compare this to my old 40 with a v-8 or the 4-runner or Camry both with v-6's which could pull 100 mph if I floored them up hills. My RV just about pulls as well as the 80 up hills sometimes. Even stalled the 80 a couple of times trying to get over ledge in low and locked with heavy foot peddle(6-7K at Thomas mountain). I think gears will help cure this.

Now, I just leave the power button on which could also explain a bit less mpg on the highway and got used to cruising slower and being happy with that.
 
Well, not sure about the speedo but going from 31's to 35's means a 12% difference in speedo measured speed. The thing is, the added rolling resistance and drag mean more than a 12% increase in torque to push the truck. What I found on my 94 4runner is that with 4.11'a and 33's it would not run with the torque converter locked very often at all. I actually regeared that truck to 5.71's, which get this, made the 4th gear final drive ratio identical to a 5 speed manual with 4.88's (33's), and the torque converter remained locked, highway MPG's got much better, and no more AT Heat light.

It appears that the torque converter locking algorithm locks based on torque and speed where the slower you go the less torque required to order an unlock. Overgearing got the double whammy of the truck thinking it is going slower with more torque required. Undergearing fixed both in that case.

I suppose I will get to find out for myself with this truck. I plan to go with 4.88's which will be a 15% gearing reduction so with 35's would be a 3% reduction from stock. Maybe it will be enough, maybe I will wish I had geared deeper.

At the end of the day though, the added inertia, wind and rolling resistance of larger tires mean more fuel consumed.

Frank
 

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