New to me 2010 Lexus LX, which of these services should I perform (1 Viewer)

[savvy100]

Hello,

I recently purchased a relatively rust free 2010 Lexus LX with 150K miles. I got an oil change done, and also got the vehicle inspected by a local mechanic I trust. Here was the recommended preventative maintenance items he came up with (Everything else checked out). Which of these should I prioritize given that I want to use the vehicle for at least the next 6-8 years:

1. Your vehicle's transmission fluid is due for service soon based on vehicle's mileage. Industry standard is 50,000km/3 years for transmission fluid service.
2. Brake fluid is showing signs of contamination and moisture accumulation, recomending brake fluid flush in the near future to maintain optimal braking preformance. Fluid moisture content tested at: 1
3. Power steering fluid is ok at this time. It is due to be flushed soon based on vehicle's mileage.
4. Coolant system is due to be flushed in the near future as the vehicle approches 100,000km or 4 years from the last coolant flush.
5. Upon inspection of the vehicle's radiator hoses, we have determined that the hoses are orignal. Hoses degrade overtime as the rubber weakens with age and from repeated heat cycles, so the older they get the higher chance they'll leak and cause the engine to overheat. Your vehicle's radiator hoses should be replaced as preventative maintenance. The typical lifespan of hoses are 100,000km or 7 years.
6. Recommend replacement of the vehicle's PCV Valve. Your vehicle is due to have the spark plugs replaced per mileage/time
7. Recommend replacement of original struts. Industry Standard for replacement is 100,000km
8. Our inspection report has determined that the vehicle has damaged wheel fasteners that should be addressed. Two nuts missing caps. Caps prevent rust on wheel stud thread
9. The vehicles rear shocks/struts appears to be original. Modern shocks and struts have a service life of about 100,000km. Replacement is reccomended around 100,000km.
10. Our inspection is determined that the vehicle requires a transfer case service based on time and (or) mileage. The industry standard for transfer case service is 50,000km or every 3 years.
11. During out inspection we found that your vehicle is due to have a differential service done in the near future. The industry standard for differential service is 50,000km or every 3 years.
12. Based on your manufacturer's recommended service interval we are recommending a fuel injector cleaning service be completed on your vehicle. Industry standard is every 100,000km or every 4 years.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
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[LX Cruiser]

Any time you buy a high mileage vehicle, you need to establish a baseline for maintenance. When it has detailed records, this is easy to do. If it doesn't have detailed records, you need to assume it just hasn't been done.

I did the same thing as you: bought a very clean older 570 with 150k miles (well mine was at 149k). Let's go through these one by one:

1. If your fluid is super dirty and your LX was ridden hard or towed a lot, and it has never had the fluid changed, I would be hesitant to mess with it. But if it's like mine, and it was used only to commute by older folks for its entire life, then you could start a schedule of draining the pan (NOT all the fluid; just 4-5 qt) and replacing only that amount. I'm waiting on a couple of crush washers in the mail, and I'll do this ASAP. Probably start doing it every 30k miles.
2. Yes, top priority.
3. I'd go ahead and do it anyway.
4. Yep
5. Yep. I just put a new radiator in mine and new upper/lower hoses. They were original and surprisingly in good shape. There are other items to replace when you're in there, too (belt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, fan pulley bracket, idler pulley).
6. Yep. PCV valve is a 30 second job. The part is like $6, too. If you do nothing else yourself, you can do this and save shop labor $$$. Spark plugs aren't too bad, provided you have the correct tools. I'm waiting on plugs to arrive, and I'll do mine.
7. I have left mine alone for the time being since they are not leaking.
8. Yeah if it needs new studs or lug nuts, get that done ASAP.
9. Again, not a top priority if they're not leaking. I might go ahead and do it after baselining everything else, but it's not a top priority for me.
10. & 11. Yes, you should do this first thing. This is very easy to DIY. 75W-90 in all three (both diffs and transfer case) and the appropriate crush washers (easy to find if you search the forum).
12. I guess? This isn't on my list, but it should be.

Things not on your list but should be:
13. brake pads and hardware. If you get any pulsing in the brake pedal when stopping, you should maybe look at the rotors as well...
14. AHC service (you should get new accumulator globes and flush the system). There is a big thread with a great video at the first post regarding AHC service and accumulator replacement.

There is a ton of info on this forum regarding maintenance.

 

[Sandroad]

Any service records anywhere? Carfax? Lexus owners web site? I agree with the above if you can’t verify history, assume it’s not been done. Start with the recommended fluid changes.

However, that is not a relatively rust free LX, IMHO. If you’re planning on 8 years of ownership in Canada, one of the top things on your list has to be rust treatment/prevention for the chassis.

 

[doru]

I would just pick the manual - I think it is called the warranty and service or something like that, not the big owner's manual and not the FSM, and see what needs to be done for the mileage.
A quick look in my maintenance schedule shows that most of the stuff listed is due at 150k, so get on with it and don't sweat it much.

Transmission flush, it is not as easy as it sounds. Also there is a split opinion on that. Search the forum for plenty of discussions and make your own mind. It is not urgent so look at it later after you're done with the rest of stuff.

What I would not do is the struts. These are not your "industry standard" struts. They are basically hydraulic pistons controlled by pumps, actuators, and computer. Unless they leak do not bother replacing.

Power steering flushing is overkill. Just replace the fluid in the reservoir at each service. I never flushed PS fluid in any of my vehicles ever, even when I replaced pumps or hoses. I just refilled the lost fluid. Basically if I'm not replacing the rack I just refill.

Fuel injection cleaning? It is nice to have. Just grab a bottle from parts store, put it in the tank and drive.

The item not mentioned in your list is the radiator. Do you have the original or the new improved one. If original, then replace it now! I would expect at 150k to have the replacement as the original would have started leaking a while ago. If you do not know what I'm talking search and you'll find a lot of info about the crack at the top.

Radiator hoses? If the truck lived up there I would not consider it as needed at this time. If you got the truck from Texas/Nevada/etc., I would.

AHC - if it functions properlly, just inspect for conditions regarding rust, especially on lines. Fluid replacement, yes. Replacing globes? Only if you have an issue caused by them, otherwise I consider it over-maintenance.

And as @Sandroad said, get that rust prevention on this summer! I know how bad it's in BC. I imagine Toronto to be the same if not worse.

Other stuff...
Cabin air filter - careful not breaking the door! Search to see what I mean.
Wipers front and rear. I do it every year after the winter, meaning now.
Tire rotation.
Engine air filter.
Belt, pulley. water pump, etc. are part of radiator replacement. If you already have the new radiator, then you have to make the call unless you have the maintenance records showing it was done at 100k.
Don't forget to periodically exercise your lockers and low range even if you never go off road.
Grease that propeller shaft!

 

[stonepa]

Apply (or pay a shop) Krown, Fluid Film, or Woolwax every fall to stop that rust. Do not only the inside and surface of the frame, but every suspension part, inside the doors, fenders, hood, rocker panels, and upper and lower tailgate. If you do it every year the LX should last a very long time.

 

[bicycleagent003]

I picked up an older AWD Sienna from a neighbor last year and put some Falken Wild Peak AT Trail tires on it. The thing is rock solid, great traction, very comfortable for the long haul. It's a long term keeper for sure. It's a 2005, so it's a constant 50:50 power split front and rear axle. I love it.