I posted this as well in the 4Runner forum that I moved over to years ago after selling my Cruiser. Needless to say, the community over there has never been as strong or knowledgeable as over here, nor as helpful. I thought i'd come on back and see if I can get some input.
My 2013 Trail uses the old halogen bulbs for the DRL. Also, the DRL acts as the turn signal. One 1156 bulb, two functions. Years ago I put an ARB bar on and wired the new turn lamps to the factory harness. These cheap Arb turn housings weren't meant to have a DRL halogen in them and I melted them quite a while ago.
I tried changing to LED and got hyper flash. I thought about resistors but they would be constantly running due to the DRL nature. No thanks. I thought about filing down the bar inside of the flasher assembly but nah, im hard pressed to find an LED bulb that's meant for DRL purposes.
It's time to fix this issue.
I put some diode dynamics 1 inch pods on my motorcycle for forward visibility and they have a cool backlight function that's low power, always on, and bright. I recently found that their ss3 pods have this as well in amber. They've got a fog pattern too. My plan is to replace my ARB fog lights, they're not the best anyway, with these and wire the backlight to the DRL.
Easy right, but id like to go a step further and remove the DRL from the turn circuit completely. I wanna give the DRL function from the stock switch to the new fogs and have the turns operate independently like normal.
Looking through the headlight wiring diagram, I see that the DRL comes out of the main body ECU and into the flasher assembly. It's a green wire.
I got into the dash and found the flasher assembly and the green DRL wire. Testing with a multimeter, I found that with the engine running and the harness plugged into the flasher assembly, the green wire reads 71.4 mV with the DRL switched on. Switching them off, the green wire then reads 13.7 V. Multiple tests render the same results.
Unplugging the harness plug from the flasher assembly, and then with the engine on the green DRL wire reads 80 mV with them on and 40 mV with them switched off.
I wanna run this through here, before I order lights, cut and splice anything.
The Green DRL wire can obviously be removed from the flasher assembly. Given its low power, I think id have to use it as a trigger wire on a new relay. Id have to run fused power from the battery (my aux fuse block) to the relay and then out to the backlight wires for the new fogs.
Any input from electrical peoples?
My 2013 Trail uses the old halogen bulbs for the DRL. Also, the DRL acts as the turn signal. One 1156 bulb, two functions. Years ago I put an ARB bar on and wired the new turn lamps to the factory harness. These cheap Arb turn housings weren't meant to have a DRL halogen in them and I melted them quite a while ago.
I tried changing to LED and got hyper flash. I thought about resistors but they would be constantly running due to the DRL nature. No thanks. I thought about filing down the bar inside of the flasher assembly but nah, im hard pressed to find an LED bulb that's meant for DRL purposes.
It's time to fix this issue.
I put some diode dynamics 1 inch pods on my motorcycle for forward visibility and they have a cool backlight function that's low power, always on, and bright. I recently found that their ss3 pods have this as well in amber. They've got a fog pattern too. My plan is to replace my ARB fog lights, they're not the best anyway, with these and wire the backlight to the DRL.
Easy right, but id like to go a step further and remove the DRL from the turn circuit completely. I wanna give the DRL function from the stock switch to the new fogs and have the turns operate independently like normal.
Looking through the headlight wiring diagram, I see that the DRL comes out of the main body ECU and into the flasher assembly. It's a green wire.
I got into the dash and found the flasher assembly and the green DRL wire. Testing with a multimeter, I found that with the engine running and the harness plugged into the flasher assembly, the green wire reads 71.4 mV with the DRL switched on. Switching them off, the green wire then reads 13.7 V. Multiple tests render the same results.
Unplugging the harness plug from the flasher assembly, and then with the engine on the green DRL wire reads 80 mV with them on and 40 mV with them switched off.
I wanna run this through here, before I order lights, cut and splice anything.
The Green DRL wire can obviously be removed from the flasher assembly. Given its low power, I think id have to use it as a trigger wire on a new relay. Id have to run fused power from the battery (my aux fuse block) to the relay and then out to the backlight wires for the new fogs.
Any input from electrical peoples?
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