New lift pics

[tclndcrz]

[quote author=85fj60 link=board=29;threadid=16876;start=msg164240#msg164240 date=1085582729]

I took some front and back end photos, but they came out crappy because of that wonderful Seattle rain. Couldn't get a decent pic that showed the tires well. when the weather turns decent and there's some decent light, I'll get a couple front and back pics up.
[/quote]

thanks

 

[esh]

[quote author=85fj60 link=board=29;threadid=16876;start=msg164240#msg164240 date=1085582729]
No regrets on the 9.5's yet, I like the tall skinny look, plus the truck tracks perfectly on the road, granted I still need to get the front end aligned and the steering wheel is all whacked. [/quote]

This part.. you're going to do this yourself yeah? It's pretty easy. Some measuring and a pipe wrench and you're aligned (toe in only). Can do shims too, if you like, for caster.

I mess with the tire/alignment shops by asking them to align the front. You can tell the good shops by if they laugh at you.

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

DAH SPRING OVER.

DAH.


TB

 

[85fj60]

Look how clean that frame is!! mmmmmmmmm

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Frame OFF resto baby. Everything was blasted cleaned and epoxied.

CANT WAIT TO GET HER BACK!

Notherone for ya bubba.


TB

 

[lovetoski]

There are a lot of Seattle guys on this thread...hzj60, 85fj60 and yours truely...

HZ - love the clean look of the work so far. Keep the pics coming - might inspire some of us.

85fj60 - My steering wheel was 1/3 of a revolution off after my 3" lift. You can fix this easily yourself. (Very easy compared to the lift!) Adjusting the drag link will do it, but you have to adjust it quite a ways. Or, you can pull the steering wheel off. This was actually very easy. No puller required, just a bit of wiggling/pulling.

Also, I'm glad you like the 9.50's. I love mine, but my son things they're too narrow. He says they look wimpy. (He's 17 - and for him bigger is always better.) Of course, his answer might change if he'd had to buy new rims...

Enjoy the weekend.

 

[plainolejeff]

I'm looking to upgrade my suspension soon on my stock 89 FJ-62. Seeing both SUA and SOA in the same thread, I just wanted to ask what advantage/disadvantage one has over the other. Thanks guys.

jeff

 

[VTCruiser]

SOA is usually seen as superior, but it depends on application. All the SOA'ers swear by its smooth ride and uncompromised stability, But for some the +/-6" of lift is a little big for a first step or they don't have the time or resources to do an SOA. There are plenty of good, moderate lift SUA kits avaible in this regard, but if you are looking for the best off-road capability, and are unconcerned by hieght, SOA is for you.

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Like Ole VT said, there are different philosophical approaches involved. The SPOA gives you an immediate 4.5 to 5 inches of lift. It places the torque (arm) momentum point at a different place on the axle and in so doing creates a system (suspension system) that flexes much easier and farther. If you want bigger tires (to get more ground clearence) you really need to go with a SPOA. I plan on running 37x12.50x17 Goodyear MTR's. You need a SPOA to run large tires like that. I like the height too. I'm running 1.5" wheel spacers (billets for you Cannuck guys) so I'll have a more proper width along with the height. Anyway, that's my story and Im sticking to it. Personally I wouldnt leave any sprung under vehicle that way, but that's just me. Good luck to you.


TB

 

[tclndcrz]

hzj60- what springs are you going to run with the 37s? i plan on 37s on down the line and already have 3" lift springs. i figured i would just take out a couple leaves...

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Well, Im running OME's heaviest duty rear and medium duty fronts. Remember that I have a 50 gallon rear fuel tank, Kaymar rear bumper spare, gas can carrier on there. I also am buying a Hannibal roof rack/roof top tent for it. I wanted a rear suspension that could handle all that.



TB

 

[esh]

[quote author=HZJ60_Guy link=board=29;threadid=16876;start=msg166986#msg166986 date=1086045500]
Well, Im running OME's heaviest duty rear and medium duty fronts. Remember that I have a 50 gallon rear fuel tank, Kaymar rear bumper spare, gas can carrier on there. I also am buying a Hannibal roof rack/roof top tent for it. I wanted a rear suspension that could handle all that.
[/quote]

Mrowr.. I'm thinking of doing the same thing. Getting a long-range tank (or 1HZ engine...) and using a KayMar-like rear bumper but putting 2 sets of can carriers (or just 1 can carrier and making a ladder/hi-lift/tool carrier on the other side) on it and using the internal tire carrier. Hannibal and tent are incoming. Will put the extra leaf back in the rear pack when everything's in place.

The medium/medium setup was perfect this past weekend. The heavier parts in the truck were the tool chest (large action packer with tools/spare parts/fluids/CO2 tank), medium ice chest, 6 gallons of water, dog, recovery gear, hi-lift. We crossed deep mud tracks, sand dunes, and made first tracks the back way into a twin lake resort/campground through 2-3' of snow. Aired skinny 33s down to 12lbs and had no problems on the trickier surfaces. Truck weight at half full of fuel (normal tank) was 5600lbs. Suspension was awesome in everything I came up against.

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

5600 pounds! Loaded! s***, my HJ60 STOCK weighed 5000 on the scales!

That's a turbo (diesel) bummer. I need to weigh mine when it's done. Probably going to be 7000!


RATS!


TB

 

[esh]

If you weigh it, do 3-4 different scales. They vary much like the roadside elevation signs. I pretty much use "country scales" and have found scales closer to ranchers more precise than scales closer to loggers. Most around here are found on 2-lane county or state highways. Privately-owned or coop-funded seem to be the most precise, but can also be switched off (semi-tractor scales are always on). The coop scales are way out in the boonies for me; think nearby towns of 30-50 folks.

Yeah it's pretty light, but that's why I'm still getting 14-15mpg in a gasser. When I start adding bumpers, tank, and rack stuff, it should climb up into the 6500lb range soon enough. NOT THAT WERE COMPETING FOR HEAVIEST VEHICLE SIR! You're welcome to win that one any day!

 

[tadje62]

Are you planning on turning those 37's with stock gears and motor? I'm just curious because I'm about to upgrade to 33's on my FJ62, and I'm wondering about how much power I might loose. Any thoughts?

[quote author=HZJ60_Guy link=board=29;threadid=16876;start=msg166533#msg166533 date=1085930496]
Like Ole VT said, there are different philosophical approaches involved. The SPOA gives you an immediate 4.5 to 5 inches of lift. It places the torque (arm) momentum point at a different place on the axle and in so doing creates a system (suspension system) that flexes much easier and farther. If you want bigger tires (to get more ground clearence) you really need to go with a SPOA. I plan on running 37x12.50x17 Goodyear MTR's. You need a SPOA to run large tires like that. I like the height too. I'm running 1.5" wheel spacers (billets for you Cannuck guys) so I'll have a more proper width along with the height. Anyway, that's my story and Im sticking to it. Personally I wouldnt leave any sprung under vehicle that way, but that's just me. Good luck to you.


TB


[/quote]

 

[tclndcrz]

i have 33s on my fj-62. i have stock gears and didnt really notice a power loss. if any loss at all it is when you first start moving. I think it feels great.

 

[tadje62]

Thanks for the help. I just read about some of the mods Henry (HZJ60_Guy) has done with his 62....now I feel stupid for uninformedly asking about his gearing for 37 inch tires. (sorry Henry, I am a Rookie) - anyway, I ask about going from 31's to 33's and power loss because with my 31's the truck can seem pretty weak on steep terrain, even in 4WD low. I am wondering if maybe the weakness is engine related? Any ideas on what is normal for 3FE power?

Thanks,

J. Tadje

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Are you planning on turning those 37's with stock gears and motor? I'm just curious because I'm about to upgrade to 33's on my FJ62, and I'm wondering about how much power I might loose. Any thoughts?

No sir. I plan in turning them with an intercooled turbo'd 1HZ with 4.11 gears and cable lockers.

Should be 200HP and 326 ft pounds of torque.


TB

 

[esh]

I moved recently from stock size tires (235s?) to 31s to OME/33s. I got the best mileage (19mpg best, averaged 17mpg on trips) with stock and gearing seemed too low. Gearing with 31s seemed to be the sweet spot- 3rd gear was actually usable. Now with 33s, long flat runs are nice and low rpm, 3rd gear is used a lot more on hills, and mileage hasn't deviated from the 31s (14-15mpg typically).

I may move to 4.56 diff gears from the stock 4.11s. Got other things to buy first, and it's not a huge deal. Low seemed low enough to get me through spots I needed to get through (last weekend saw mud, sand, and snow within a day of each other).