New lift pics
- Thread starter 85fj60
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- Thread starter
- #3
Cool! The ride is a little stiff and certainly bounces me around, reminds me when the cruiser was fairly new. Drove it to work this morning, its true maiden voyage, outside of driving it around the block when I finished. I'll have to take it up into the hills and put it through the motions, flex things a little bit 
I'll keep ya'll posted.
I'll keep ya'll posted.What lift sytem did you install and how many inches of lift did you get? Also what size tire are you running?
Thanks
Thanks
Nevermind about the first question. I just saw your other post about the BDS & the 33s. 60 looks great with that set up.
Do you think you would be able to get 35s on there and still be able to wheel it?
Do you think you would be able to get 35s on there and still be able to wheel it?
- Thread starter
- #6
It's BDS 2.5 inch lift with 1.5 inch shackles. I think if I were to do it again, I'd go with stock size shackles. seems a bit high. 33x9.5 tires. don't know about 35's. There's a fair amount of clearance in the wheel wells. I imagine you could, but you might rub with a bit of flex.
Here's my new lift. 31x10.5 BFG AT/KOs before, 33x9.5 BFG MTs after. 3-year old used OME medium/medium. MAF flip kit.
HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring oveSpring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over,
TB
TB
[quote author=HZJ60_Guy link=board=29;threadid=16876;start=msg163257#msg163257 date=1085447195]
Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over,
TB
[/quote]
Lemming!
But seriously... SUA is better for what I do with *that* truck. I have a BJ42 that will be getting SOA soon enough. Plushy is more for gravel and dirt, and for that SUA trumps (especially OME). The Goat is the crawler.
Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over, spring over, spring over, Spring over,
TB
[/quote]
Lemming!
But seriously... SUA is better for what I do with *that* truck. I have a BJ42 that will be getting SOA soon enough. Plushy is more for gravel and dirt, and for that SUA trumps (especially OME). The Goat is the crawler.
[quote author=85fj60 link=board=29;threadid=16876;start=msg162871#msg162871 date=1085415368]
It's BDS 2.5 inch lift with 1.5 inch shackles. I think if I were to do it again, I'd go with stock size shackles. seems a bit high. 33x9.5 tires. don't know about 35's. There's a fair amount of clearance in the wheel wells. I imagine you could, but you might rub with a bit of flex.
[/quote]
Why would you leave out the extended shackles, is there to much body roll ???, im also going down the same road as you have (no soa), and a 2 1/2 lift and shackles was the direction i was heading in, feed back would be great.
It's BDS 2.5 inch lift with 1.5 inch shackles. I think if I were to do it again, I'd go with stock size shackles. seems a bit high. 33x9.5 tires. don't know about 35's. There's a fair amount of clearance in the wheel wells. I imagine you could, but you might rub with a bit of flex.
[/quote]
Why would you leave out the extended shackles, is there to much body roll ???, im also going down the same road as you have (no soa), and a 2 1/2 lift and shackles was the direction i was heading in, feed back would be great.
- Thread starter
- #11
Actually, interestingly enough, there is less body roll now than before, which I attribute to the new stiff springs and new shocks. the old shock were toast and the springs were saggin big time. I think my thoughts about the shackles had more to do with the amount of lift (a little more than what I expected). I am happy with the results, don't get me wrong. The ride home from work today was noticeably less rough than this morning. Go figure. I wouldn't mind if it settled down .5 to 1 inch over the next few months, especially in the back, where there seems to be some extra lift. It's like the cruiser got a fanny lift. The photo I posted is deceiving, because the ground is actually sloped down toward the back, making the truck more even than it is. Anyway, I bought shackles through Cool Cruisers. they're ultra beefy, way more so than the stock ones and look pretty sharp. Also picked up some greasable shackle bolts. A must I hear. I haven't driven it enough to say either way.
I say go for it, makes the truck look much better. I couldn't stand to see the cruiser saggin' down the road. as low as it was, with the smaller tires, the body was disproportionate to the height from the ground, it looked odd.
anyway,
The photo I posted is deceiving, because the ground is actually sloped down toward the back, making the truck more even than it is. Anyway, I bought shackles through Cool Cruisers. they're ultra beefy, way more so than the stock ones and look pretty sharp. Also picked up some greasable shackle bolts. A must I hear. I haven't driven it enough to say either way.I say go for it, makes the truck look much better. I couldn't stand to see the cruiser saggin' down the road. as low as it was, with the smaller tires, the body was disproportionate to the height from the ground, it looked odd.
anyway,
I kinda dig the raked stance of most wagon lifts.
Makes it look faster and ready to carry all the gear I could ever need to carry.
Makes it look faster and ready to carry all the gear I could ever need to carry.
I've heard parking it in a ditch overnight will do wonders for breaking in the springs. One night one way, the next night the other. Makes sense to me. Mine were used and gave insta-cadillac ride. 8)
i have some ccot 1inch lift springs and i am geting ccot 2 1/2 shackles what else will i need to do/get.
- Thread starter
- #15
Have you installed the springs already??
If not,
Here's what I got for my 85 60 and recommend :
-new poly bushings
-new greasable spring pins ( you will destroy your old ones)
-you may need new brake lines, I did as my old ones were cracking, get the cool stainless ones.
-new u-bolts, etc.
-lube everything a week or two before you do the job.
-greasable bolts for the shackles
-extended sway bar links for the front
The two best tools I had for this job were my air cut off tool and a breaker bar, I used the impact wrench and various other wrenches, but for the sheer power of removing stuff, the former two are great. A large hammer is also helpful. Be prepared to get really dirty, and sore, and thirsty. Have some cold brews on hand and take a break often.
I had to purchase some extended spring center pins for both front and rear springs and extension tubes for the back leaf spring packs, (from SOR) largely due to the fact that I kept the rubber surround pieces and the metal bracket for the rear. Not all 60's had this option I guess, but it fit with the new springs and I kept it. The other weird issue I had was trying to center the spring perches on center pins themselves. The axles wouldn't move forward enough to settle on the center pins. learned that if you remove the zerk fitting on the driveshaft, you can push the axle forward, push out the excess grease and align the perches to the center pins.
Also, you will need to shim the front axle , 2 to 4 degrees to account for the altered castor. They go between the axle perch and the springs themselvesyou can get shims from CCOT (I think) and SOR.
You may need some flames to get out the old rubber bushings. I hear oxygen torches work well. I didn't use this option. It may have helped with the spring pins, but, I'm done and I don't care now. But it may help as the spring pins are a bugger to get out.
Overall, it was a pretty easy job as far as logistics go. But tough as far as the physical part of it is concerned. It will kick your a$$. I spread it over a couple weeks, only because I could.
Good luck
If not,
Here's what I got for my 85 60 and recommend :
-new poly bushings
-new greasable spring pins ( you will destroy your old ones)
-you may need new brake lines, I did as my old ones were cracking, get the cool stainless ones.
-new u-bolts, etc.
-lube everything a week or two before you do the job.
-greasable bolts for the shackles
-extended sway bar links for the front
The two best tools I had for this job were my air cut off tool and a breaker bar, I used the impact wrench and various other wrenches, but for the sheer power of removing stuff, the former two are great. A large hammer is also helpful. Be prepared to get really dirty, and sore, and thirsty. Have some cold brews on hand and take a break often.
I had to purchase some extended spring center pins for both front and rear springs and extension tubes for the back leaf spring packs, (from SOR) largely due to the fact that I kept the rubber surround pieces and the metal bracket for the rear. Not all 60's had this option I guess, but it fit with the new springs and I kept it. The other weird issue I had was trying to center the spring perches on center pins themselves. The axles wouldn't move forward enough to settle on the center pins. learned that if you remove the zerk fitting on the driveshaft, you can push the axle forward, push out the excess grease and align the perches to the center pins.
Also, you will need to shim the front axle , 2 to 4 degrees to account for the altered castor. They go between the axle perch and the springs themselvesyou can get shims from CCOT (I think) and SOR.
You may need some flames to get out the old rubber bushings. I hear oxygen torches work well. I didn't use this option. It may have helped with the spring pins, but, I'm done and I don't care now. But it may help as the spring pins are a bugger to get out.
Overall, it was a pretty easy job as far as logistics go. But tough as far as the physical part of it is concerned. It will kick your a$$. I spread it over a couple weeks, only because I could.
Good luck
thanxs and no the leafs arent on yet, do you need to shim the rear? do i need longer/different shocks? with the longer pins could i fit an add-a-leaf? where can i get a sway bar links and how long?
if anyone can answer these questions thanxs alot in advance
if anyone can answer these questions thanxs alot in advance
- Thread starter
- #17
You may need to shim the rear. I was not able to do it due to the rubber spring surrounds and the larger hold in the spring perches. I have not had any issues and in talking with BDS, they didn't shim the rear either, with no problems. You may have to since you're adding additional height largely as a result of the higher shackles. Typically, lifted springs will compensate for driveline angles, but the added shackles will change that angle. You could always try without, if you get vibrations or other driveline anomalies, you could always add them in. I don't know about the add a leafs. As far as the extended sway links, you can pick them up at SOR for around $45. You will probably need longer shocks.
Good luck
Good luck
do you have any picture front to back or some kind of picture where i can see the width of the tire on the truck?
Looks awesome...how do you like the 9.5"s? I'm still debating between those and the 12.5"s. I love the stance of the 12.5"s on a set of deep wheels, but i have heard of steering wonder and possible rubbing issues? any regrets about not going wider? Have you taken her wheelin' yet?
- Thread starter
- #20
No regrets on the 9.5's yet, I like the tall skinny look, plus the truck tracks perfectly on the road, granted I still need to get the front end aligned and the steering wheel is all whacked. I haven't taken it off road yet, sometime in the next month when we have a chance to hit some trails, we will. Personnally, I wouldn't go any wider. Turning is sharp, no road wander, and the 33's put a little extra rubber between you and the road which is nice. I'm even enjoying the "rubber overdrive"
I took some front and back end photos, but they came out crappy because of that wonderful Seattle rain. Couldn't get a decent pic that showed the tires well. when the weather turns decent and there's some decent light, I'll get a couple front and back pics up.
I took some front and back end photos, but they came out crappy because of that wonderful Seattle rain. Couldn't get a decent pic that showed the tires well. when the weather turns decent and there's some decent light, I'll get a couple front and back pics up.
