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you picked up the column mounted ignition switch already.. i had a problem similar and that was the problem.
 
handcannon said:
Find a local mom and pop type place that does electrical rebuilds. You should be able to get a solenoid there.

Don
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Summit racing has em. There were only 2 parts guys there and a long line, so I bailed and went to napa. I'll head back later this week.
 
You have a good motor to frame ground right?
 
Most starting systems use a relay between the gin switch and the starter solenoid to boost the start/key voltage to the solenoid. Everyone that has posted has brought up valid points on what may be causing the issue. I added in the part about the relay because of the way I would trouble shoot the problem. I would start at the first part in the chain and test every link in that chain. I have not seen too many factory GM ignition switches go bad, but would not rule that out and thats why I suggested to replace the switch since its cheap. This will take that part out of the chain. The next thing in line would be the relay. If there is one, replace it as its cheap as well. If there isn't, you need to ad one to take the load off of the key switch and to send a higher amperage signal to the solenoid. The last part is the solenoid which do go bad and are cheap as well. It may cost $75-$100 to replace everything in the chain, but it will all be brand new and that is always a good place to start.
Now keep in mind that what everyone else is suggesting are all correct places to look, and if there is a wiring problem such as not big enough gauge wire somewhere or what Mace is suggesting about the engine ground being loose or missing would be the first place to start trouble looking before moving to parts
replacement.
If you dont have a relay, I would suggest that you add one. They are simple to add and are wired the same as wiring one for high powered lighting. If you need a diagram for one, let me know and I'll send you one.
 
Waggoner5 said:
Most starting systems use a relay between the gin switch and the starter solenoid to boost the start/key voltage to the solenoid. Everyone that has posted has brought up valid points on what may be causing the issue. I added in the part about the relay because of the way I would trouble shoot the problem. I would start at the first part in the chain and test every link in that chain. I have not seen too many factory GM ignition switches go bad, but would not rule that out and thats why I suggested to replace the switch since its cheap. This will take that part out of the chain. The next thing in line would be the relay. If there is one, replace it as its cheap as well. If there isn't, you need to ad one to take the load off of the key switch and to send a higher amperage signal to the solenoid. The last part is the solenoid which do go bad and are cheap as well. It may cost $75-$100 to replace everything in the chain, but it will all be brand new and that is always a good place to start.
Now keep in mind that what everyone else is suggesting are all correct places to look, and if there is a wiring problem such as not big enough gauge wire somewhere or what Mace is suggesting about the engine ground being loose or missing would be the first place to start trouble looking before moving to parts
replacement.
If you dont have a relay, I would suggest that you add one. They are simple to add and are wired the same as wiring one for high powered lighting. If you need a diagram for one, let me know and I'll send you one.
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Thanks for that info Gary!!!
Appreciate it. That makes it a bit clearer!!
 
Gumby said:
GM does have some issues with the ignition switches.

If you can get it to do it again and you have a test light handy and help you can check for power at the solenoid. That should help narrow it down.

Clutch safety switch or neutral safety switch? If auto, try throwing it in neutral rather than park.
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While he was having the problem I checked for power at the solenoid while Chicago tried to crank, no voltage. The neutral safety switch ohmed out good. When it does fire the solenoid engages right away, none of the usual stuff I've seen with GMC solenoids when they start to go bad ie clicking, slow engage, works after you bang on it. I'm leaning toward the switch in the column.
 
Switch I got was not the right one!!!! Grrrrr!
How would you wire that relay in??? I'm wondering if that wasn't the issue, then cuz I cranked her over so many times in a short time.
Today. It fired great, like nothing was wrong and I did have to shut her down quite a bit going the smog/ DMV checks!

Makes me nervous though. Don't like that.
 
This should work. Pin 87 is somewhat confusing as it shows "to Ground" but actually goes to the start position on the starter solenoid which is grounded through the housing. Fuse should be 30A which is more than it needs, but in a long cranking situation, 30 is needed. The closer you get the relay to the solenoid, the better. Use at least 10 ga wire for pin 87 and 30. Pins 85 and 86 are just the coil contacts, so the ga is not as important.
relaywire.jpg
 
Thanks for the diagram!!!
Im thinking that might be the deal... It over heated!
Works w/ out issue since that occurred!
 
Wait...nope...
I DID get the right switch, I was just looking at the WRONG one on the column!!!:doh:
 
chicago said:
There's a NSS wired in.
I did stick a relay in there, but I don't quite recall what that was going to...it was a new relay.
Is that something that will work if it cools off, or does it just fail??

Thanks for the time!
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its sounds like a relay issue, yes relays can have intermittent issues
 
I don't know about your wire harness but I have a painless harness and in the directions it says the purple and white wire (I think ) goes directly to the starter. If you were to wire a safety switch it would go in between. The ignition switch that you bought is the relay. I have no relay. Just the ignition switch. (the one that is controlled by that rod) Its been a while since I wired it but I'm pretty sure that's how it goes. Good luck
 
77TPIFJ said:
I don't know about your wire harness but I have a painless harness and in the directions it says the purple and white wire (I think ) goes directly to the starter. If you were to wire a safety switch it would go in between. The ignition switch that you bought is the relay. I have no relay. Just the ignition switch. (the one that is controlled by that rod) Its been a while since I wired it but I'm pretty sure that's how it goes. Good luck
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That is how we did that too.
There is no relay in between the ign. Switch and the starter.

Thanks man! :)

I'll replace the switch this week before the run this weekend!
 
rusty_tlc said:
The high beam switch?:lol:
What kind of a Maroon would do that?:flipoff2:
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Lol!!! :lol:
I was thinking it was that wire pack under the beam switch...
Forgot there were 2 other packs on the other side of the column!!
 
You two are definitely a pair :D
 
Mace said:
You two are definitely a pair :D
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Yeup... And we live minutes from eachother!! Lol
 
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