Need advice on CV axles and diff drops (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 28, 2012
Threads
8
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59
Location
Sumter, SC
So i have a 2007 Trd i bought used with 80,000 on the odometer. After i bought it i put a set of Bilstein 5100's on it to level it out with plans to upgrade to a Toytec Ulti in the future. After i installed the shocks set to the 3rd notch (just under 2in of lift i believe) i noticed the CV boots were leaking greese around the outboard clamp on the differential side of the axle. I took it to my local dealership and they put new clamps on both axles but left the origional boots with almost 100k on them. This fixed the problem until i recently upgraded to the full Toytec 3in lift and TC upper control arms. The differential side boots started leaking grease really bad and one has completely torn. So the issue is now i need new axles so what brand should i get and will new ones leak or were my old boots the problem? If so is a diff drop a solution to this?
 
I have over 130,000 miles on my 2007 with a 3" Donahoe (Icon) lift and Light Racing upper control arms; no diff drop, no torn or leaking boots. Wheeled it hard and it is still on the factory original CV joints.
 
If the CV's have not lost to much grease the chances are they are not worn out. The boots can just be replaced. If they are a worn out a good axel shop can rebuild them and some will warranty them for life. I would go with the diff drop kit when you get the Toy Tec lift. I had this problem with my Tacoma when lifted. Others had the same lift with no issues. It seems to be the luck of the draw. I'm getting ready to do the Toy Tec on my FJ and hope I dont have issues. I will do the diff drop that comes with the kit.
 
All the mechanics around here just say to replace the entire axles and i have a quote for 400 total on 2 new napa axles (brand new not rebuilt) labor and an alignment at a shop i really trust. Can someone explain a diff drop works and are there any disadvantages to them? It seems like i read somewhere they affect ground clearance. Oh and also i already have the Toyec Ulti without a diff drop just to clarify the origional post
 
Diff drop lowers the front differential, therefore decreasing the angle CV axle shaft functions at.

I don't see a point in, considering a 3" lift doesn't increase the angle dramatically.

Go long travel and can achieve the same thing. Haha.
 
Diff drop lowers the front differential, therefore decreasing the angle CV axle shaft functions at.

I don't see a point in, considering a 3" lift doesn't increase the angle dramatically.

Not to mention that on an IFS truck like the FJC, you lose the ground clearance you just lifted it for by dropping the diff.
 
All the mechanics around here just say to replace the entire axles and i have a quote for 400 total on 2 new napa axles (brand new not rebuilt) labor and an alignment at a shop i really trust. Can someone explain a diff drop works and are there any disadvantages to them? It seems like i read somewhere they affect ground clearance. Oh and also i already have the Toyec Ulti without a diff drop just to clarify the origional post

I wouldn't trust Napa axles on the trail. Fine for mall crawling, but they'll snap prematurely if you wheel.
 
The diff drop actually only angles one side down with longer bolts and a spacer for each side. I never liked that once the diff drop was in place the factory (or aftermarket) skids could no longer be used underneath the center to lift the front end.

You lose all the ground clearance you just achieved by lifting and getting larger tires. Not worth it unless it's mall crawler
 
So basically i need to get the oem toyota axles is what everybody is saying?
 
Ok, well i think Upstate Cruisers members get a discount at the toyota dealership in greenville sc so i will check there and also some of these places yall have suggested. Sorry for all the newbie questions but the new cv's wont start leaking like the old ones right?
 
Well i dont think my axles are bad and from what evrybody is saying they just leak from the angle theyre running at. They've just been leaking really bad and one is torn a little so i think ill just check them out to make sure they're ok and put new boots on them with the clamps from Southeast Overland.
 
BMThiker said:
The design of factory steel bands is not ideal and they work themselves loose over time. I replaced all of mine with hose clamps.

On top of, they require a special tool to tighten, yet no dealer I've inquired at has, nor any clue about.
 
You have to remove the axles to replace the boots. So your choice comes to, should you replace the axles at the same time. The labor should actually be less when replacing the entire axle as opposed to replacing the boots as well.

If you replace the axles, get the old ones back. You can re boot them and keep them as trail spares or sell one off as a trail spare to help recoup some ofthe cost.

If you wheel your rig, I would reccomend swapping out the axles yourself. Doing it in the driveway or garage will give you great experience in case you ever have to do it on the trail.
 

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