Need A little Help runs like crap

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MJM

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Next to the Falls in OH
Need A little Help runs like crap Follow UP!

83 FJ60 rebuitl carb thanks Jim C, new plugs, rotor, dist. cap, wires etc. timing set by pro, new vac. lines, valves adj. by pro. New fuel pump, filter. New air pump. The problem is I have a small exhaust leak coming from a broken stud on the EGR cooler and I can hear it when driving if you give a lot of gas it will get loud, when the engine heats up it goes away. Now after you shut the truck off if will not run smooth it has no power untill it warms up and that takes a while. The truck is in great shape but I can not let the other half depend on it in its current condition. I have put a lot of hours into this motor thinking that all of the above parts would cure it. But it still runs like crap. What are my options I do not want to desmogg nor take apart the engine to fix that broken stud or desmogg. Any ideas would be great or I just may drive this truck into the Lake.
THanks
MJM
 
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Hows the compression, what gas are you running, seems like you should have a good motor there with all the new parts etc. I have an exhaust leak and all stock original everything. are your vac lines right? Mine were all screwed up from PO, after making sure they went to the right places truck runs like a dream even with the exhaust leak and 33's with stock gears(3.73) I can go 80 down the freeway, in town its no dragster but can keep up with trafic.
 
Double or triple check your vac lines (Use FSM). They seem simple, but one or two misrouted can wreak havoc.

Hodag
 
Compression good only 20k on this motor rebuilt by Toyota PO. I will double check the vac lines but I just do not see how that would make it run so bad.
 
Change out the EGR pipe. I think they are know to get warped and leak. You talking about # 2?

SOR sells a Stainless Steel ERG Pipe. I am thinking you can fix the stud in place. Most of the studs (#21?) you can pull and replace too or run a die on it to clean up the threads.
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I hate to recommend it since I am a consumer of the advice on mud, with very little technical knowledge, but try premium gas.

The advice I have read here is opposite, but I switched to premium (highest grade available at the pump) and have poured a couple octane boasters in, and voila. It drives like a brand new truck.

It doesn't make sense, but I had the exact same problem as you and it changed my truck dramatically.

Only problem is now my wife keeps stealing my FJ60 and I have to drive her 80 or ride my bike.
 
NocalFJ60 said:
Change out the EGR pipe. I think they are know to get warped and leak. You talking about # 2?

SOR sells a Stainless Steel ERG Pipe. I am thinking you can fix the stud in place. Most of the studs (#21?) you can pull and replace too or run a die on it to clean up the threads.

I like the high grade gas idea but I have my doubts, I will look and see if that is the broken stud indeed. Thanks for the help I will keep you posted.
MJM
 
I recommend the emissions manual. It's less than $11.00 from Toyota. The telephone number for the Toyota Materials distribution center is 1-800-622-2033. The emissions manual for the 2F is publication number RM36043. This manual provides trouble shooting and inspection procedures for the entire emissions system. It will help you find what parts are not working.

For example, under the troubleshooting section "engine hesitates/poor acceleration" for a cold engine it says the possible cause might be "EGR system always on".

You could also have a vacuum leak that closes up when the engine heats up. You can often find vacuum leaks by spraying suspect locations (intake manifold, PCV hoses, etc.) with carburetor cleaner and observing for a response in engine idle.

Anyway, good luck.
 
NocalFJ60 said:
Change out the EGR pipe. I think they are know to get warped and leak. You talking about # 2?

SOR sells a Stainless Steel ERG Pipe. I am thinking you can fix the stud in place. Most of the studs (#21?) you can pull and replace too or run a die on it to clean up the threads.

Yes, #21 is broken any tips on getting that thing out without pulling off manifold? Do you think if the leak was big enough it would affect the performance of the the 2F?
THanks
 
What about the EGR valve?

Have you checked out the EGR valve itself?

On older vehicles they can get sticky and stay open. When the engine is cold a BVSV on the thermostat housing blocks vacuum to the EGR valve and other stuff. When the engine heats up the BVSV opens and if there is enough manifold vacuum, vacuum will be applied to the EGR valve through the EGR Vacuum Modulator and other stuff.

Try unplugging the vacuum hose on the top of the EGR and see if that helps. If it does (as it did on mine) see if there is vacuum on this line when the engine is cold. If not you might need to replace the EGR valve. If yes, your problem may be somewhere upstream. I don't believe there should be vacuum applied to the EGR valve when the engine is cold.

Shot in the dark, but maybe it will help.
 
If the EGR pipe is leaking, that can cause your truck to run poorly. Mine had the same issue, fixed that problem, and idle was way better. If the stud is broken, I would try use an easy out. Might have fun getting way up there to remove it. Worst case, remove the exhaust manifold.
 
Follow UP

What a PITA by far the most annoying repair yet on any truck. I first drilled out the old stud one size at a time. This does not include the 30min. required to remove the heat sheild or the 30min. to get the old EGR tube out. After drilling I taped the area and inserted a hella coil and to my satisfaction it held very well. I can say that if the other stud had broken I would have had to remove the entire manifold, the cruiser gods were on my side though. This is a very tight area to work in. The stainless EGR tube from SOR was a perfect fit and a lot more substantial than the OEM part. The truck has never run so well and now people will not grab their kids when I drive by.
THanks for you Help
 
Cool deal.. Glad to hear you followed through and fixed it.
 

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