NE1 have old brake booster motor body?

[murphthelab]

Location

United States

Long story short - looking for a booster motor body (internals can be toast).

On my 3rd removal of whole booster assembly (ABS light / brake failure).
First removal - rebuilt booster motor, reinstalled. Bled brakes profusely. Retested. Accumulator would not prime/fill correctly. Replaced accumulator w/ new while in rig. Still no luck. Suspect pump portion was failed or blocked.
Second removal - replaced the pump portion of the booster pump/accumulator assembly w/ a known working one (thanks to i8mud buddy). Reinstalled, but failure again. Motor won't come on!
Third removal - just found that a tab was broken during previous pump reassembly. Therefore, no connection to motor.

Now I have to fix this broken tab, but as you can see in the picture, there is only a tiny bit of the conductor showing as it penetrates the plastic (towards motor). I don't think soldering or rigging it is feasible.

So if anyone purchased a new motor/pump assembly, and retained their old non-functioning one, I'm interested in procuring.
One day I will have brakes again and can drive my '98 LC.
(98 LC 180k)

 

[murphthelab]

Friendly bump...
Desperate to move this forward somehow.

 

[KliersLC]

If there is a pick and pull near you, the motor out of a VSC equipped 4runner, Tundra and sequoia are supposed to fit.

 

[murphthelab]

Yes. I've inquired. They are all crazy. 20 year old rigs in the junkyard and they want minimum $500 for any part of the booster assembly. Hard pill, given the price of a new non-OEM pump motor, and fact I'm looking for something with near-zero commercial value (the motor shell).

 

[murphthelab]

Took it apart again last night. The plastic encased metal tabs on the booster motor, which are prone to breaking due to prevalent corrosion, tie to the spring-loaded contact inside the motor base. The conducting metal can be separated at an internal binding point, and the metal piece can be pushed towards the outside. The newly protruding piece of metal can be bent over and covered/contacted by the wire harness ring. Voila, a new connection.

I won't know if it stands up under normal operational condition until re-install and re-test. Maybe later today or tomorrow.