As long as you can not push the pinion up and down you should be good just replacing the seal, Also need to see if the flange has some wear on it to cut the seal up. If it has some wear on it they have sleeves you can use to fix it.
My rear diff blew up. Advice
- Thread starter 77cruiser
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Now on the drain plug . However you can get it out is good. Alot of companies out there make a good replacement type plug. Might want to think about maybe welding some type of ramp thing around it to help get over it on the rocks.
Another thing to think about while you have it out to fix. Check the wear pattern and also the backlash. Just a good thing to do while you have it out. Then again if you are replacing the seals then you are going to need to check the backlash and stuff.
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- #24
To change the pinion seals does the 3rd member have to come out of the diff axle housing?
arb is getting new O-rings which should do the trick.
arb is getting new O-rings which should do the trick.
I did my pinion seal on the truck a couple months ago.
The only hard part was getting it in straight and getting enough leverage for the 185lb+ torque on the nut.
Oh yeah, and make sure you get the right stake nut. I got the wrong one and had to reuse the old.
Also there is a garter spring in the lip of the seal. Be careful not to bugger it up.
Good luck
-Dave
Question?
Does that look like he has a locker on that truck?
Does that look like he has a locker on that truck?
- Thread starter
- #27
yeah... theres an ARB in there... Blew the seals on it a couple months ago so it will get fixed during all of this mess....
So to answer my question it sounds like, YES I do have to completely removed the 3rd member?
So to answer my question it sounds like, YES I do have to completely removed the 3rd member?
- Thread starter
- #28
How long did it take you? It looks like I can just order everything from Spector or toyota for not a whole lot of coin...
I got the seal and nut for under 20$ from the local dealer.
Did it on vehicle in about 1hr.
Took a while to figure out how to drive the seal in, some say to use a large socket. I ended up using a square of 2x4 wood and slowly tapped it in straight.
According to the docs, you are supposed to hold the flange with a service tool then torque the stake nut to over 185lb. This is while the axle is up on stands. Good luck.
I ended up making a bar with 2 bolts thru it to hold the flange. It butted against the frame.
I had asked on MUD why you couldnt just use the park brake and weight of the vehicle to do the torque. Never got a good answer on that.
Do you have the FSM?
-Dave
- Thread starter
- #32
Yeah.I have an Fsm. That nut sounds fun. I am sure its tough since your laying undernesth the truck too. I will probably do it first of next week so I will update...
The help on this has been great!
Last question, can I take the ARB out the back and fix the O-ring instead of taking out the 3rd member?
The help on this has been great!
Last question, can I take the ARB out the back and fix the O-ring instead of taking out the 3rd member?
Not that i know of and properly get to the round nut things ( can not think of name this early in the morning ) to set the backlash correctly. Could be wrong here because i have never tried, just always took the third out myself to check everything out.
It is later now and i still do not think it will work with it in. That backlash is VERY important. That will tell you how long your gears will last.
If this was me i would pull it out and work on it.
If this was me i would pull it out and work on it.
In order to get the ARB seal housing off of the locker to replace the o-rings, you'll need to pull the 3rd member out.
Its been about 15 years since i tore into one of those ARB's so i was not too sure about how all that looked inside anymore. We put one in a truck when they were first on the scene and the instructions were wrong and we had to call them about it.
- Thread starter
- #38
I called up Rick at Ralph Hayes and I ordered probably more than i needed but I went ahead and got everything from the driveshaft flange to the last seal. I will prob end up returning most of it but I would rather have in case. It will be here wednesday. I hope to dive in Wed afternoon and get the 3rd pulled out. I got a little advice on how to do that today.
Wheels off, Drums off, remove C-clips, slide axles out and then unbolt 3rd...
Am i missing anything that I have to remove there?
Wheels off, Drums off, remove C-clips, slide axles out and then unbolt 3rd...
Am i missing anything that I have to remove there?