My "new" 1979 4x4 pickup

[Zack1978]

Hello,
In the very near future I will be getting a 79 4x4 Toyota pickup. The truck was owned by a local church and it was used as the parking lot plow truck. It has a Fischer Plow, which I intend to still use. The truck was used rarely other than for plowing. So needless to say it sat for many years. The biggest problem is the fact that the frame is VERY rotted! It has holes in it that I can almost fit my fist through. What is the best, strongest, safeest and cheapest way to repair the frame? I guess I don't care how good it looks, because the truck looks like a ghetto truck anyway. Also what things should I consider changing. due to the fact that the truck sat for so long. What about the plow, should I do anything with that? I have never owned a plow before. Is the 20R a good motor? HOw well will it push snow? How hard it is to work on this truck? What is the weakness of this year truck, if any? Any tips for owning this truck?

Thanks,
Zack

 

[KliersLC]

first I would not pay much for it, then take it to a body shop to fix the frame unless you are an experienced welder. Personally I would find a junked truck and see if you can swap frames. As far as plows go I can't help you. 20r is an excellent motor, easy to work on cheap parts, check the timing chain tensioner. Should push snow fine in 4lo. that frame is bad news get it fixed.

 

[Wolfman]

find out where the frame is the worst make some templates out of cardboard and weld em in the cool thing abot a 79 is they have 4.37 gears and a 4spd. Buy some add a leaves from jc whitney the should handle the plow. we bought one here in chicago for 50.00 no plow rusted frame. 20.00 worth of steel and still running the bar that goes accross to hold the fuel tank up and shocks was shot so we found some tubind that fit snug inside and repaired it.

 

[mattlock]

I hate to say it but it is probably a lost cause. I had an 84 with major frame rot. I took it to several welders they tried but soon enough there was nothing left to weld to. The last straw was when the old frame finally rusted through, and all that held it together were a few shady welds. Also the gas tank fell off and I had to hold it up with a canoe strap. It was really sad, I mean the thing ran perfect even thouh it had like 278000 miles on it. In your case I wouldn't give them more than $200. Plus I don't know where you live but it sounds like upper midwest. I NEVER see Toyota 4WD trucks from the late 70's, good luck finding parts locally. I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, buy the thing, have fun, just don't waste your time and money polishing a turd. Cheers!

 

[moosiefate]

i got a 79 longbed and i love it! same deal it sat for years only used to haul trash my mom bought it for the property to use as a hauler as well..my brother and i used it as a daily driver..it has lasted 4years in the hands of a teenager with little or no work done to it i rescued it when he came back from muddin' and i found the transfercase and both diff's dry i have put maybe $1000 including reg. oil and tuneups in to it over the past 2 1/2 years and it has gotten my ass everywhere i needed to go...granted it needs some new stuff...front leafs would be nice..still has the stock,and i mean stock factory 79 springs..the same ones it left the factory 25years ago in 1979 on it...they are bowing up now their so old but it still get over the rocks and through the mud pit...so if you can find one with low rust i say get it.....plus the round headlights are so much cooler the square ones and you dont see many on the road still cuz everyone strips the suckers for parts...goodluck hope its worth getting!....aloha

 

[Jetboy]

The first thing to check is the spacer between the tranny and tcase. If it hasn't broken yet it will. I have had a 79 and an 80.(also an 84 and an 89) both of them cracked in the same place. If you can have a welder weld extra aluminum supports on. running down the spacer. If you use 1.5 or 2" by 1/4 or so and add about 4-6 around the case is will help the strength significantly. That is the only way I know of to fix the problem short of swapping in a newer 5 spd.
As for welding the frame pics would be important to determine the amount of rust and what is left of the frame. I don't recall, are the frames on those years fully boxed? I think if there is something left to work with you could have it repaired. or find a good doner frame. I got a running 79 with a broken t-case for $100, so they are out there and in the northwest we don't get much rust. generaly only the bed sides.

As for the plowing, I used to own a plow business. I think the truck would work fine in terms of durability. you might go through a few clutches depending on how much plowing you do. you will get into problems if you get heavy drifts because of the lack of weight. Might put some sand bags in the back. The width of your plow blade will also make a big difference. I think a 6' or a 6'6" blade would be about right for your rig. I hope it has power steering, of not the heater will not be needed .

If you're getting into the plowing business I would recomend another vehicle. for just plowing an fj40 or a CJ5/7 or a blazer would be my choice. they get around better being shorter, and the I6 has great torque and plows very well, as does a sbc with an automatic. You see the landscapers with the big trucks, but I generaly was able to out plow my friends that use them by about 15-25% in terms of $ per hour. I could do more small lots and charge similar to large lots because none of the full size guys want to do them. Driveways are good $, more than you'd think. I averaged about $150/hr on bid accounts (generaly businesses), driveways for $15/snow is actualy good money if you get a group in the same area. charged $65 by the hour but the "call when I need... and it's soo deep I cant get my 4 wheeler out" people didn't get it done before 7 am.

 

[Zack1978]

Can you give me more info about the spacer, And what I should have welded? I will get some frame pics up on Thurs, but it is safe to say the frame is bad!!. I hope my welder can get it safe for this year while I find a donor truck. I am looking for a 79 shortbed 4x4 with no rust. I don't care about the int, engine, etc. Just a good body and frame, any ideas?


Zack

 

[ken_79-fj40]

The old 79-83 trucks or even up to 85 are getting hard to come by. 10 years ago I parted ways with a totally rustfree 82 sr5 longbed that my father bought brand new. One of the dumbest things I ever did. The kid that bought it beat the crap out of it, dented it all up. But frame rot may not be repairable. All depends on how bad it is. Sometimes you can just make panels and weld over the old crap, if there's enough left to weld to. You can't really weld to rust. But toyotas make killer plow trucks. I can push snow like mad with my old 89. A buddy of mine has a 90 toy like mine with a 6.5 foot blade like mine. He also has a 01 or 02 f350 power stroke with a 8 foot blade. He gets the ford stuck all the time, and plows around it and pulls it out with the toyota.

 

[Jetboy]

Can you give me more info about the spacer, And what I should have welded? I will get some frame pics up on Thurs, but it is safe to say the frame is bad!!. I hope my welder can get it safe for this year while I find a donor truck. I am looking for a 79 shortbed 4x4 with no rust. I don't care about the int, engine, etc. Just a good body and frame, any ideas?


Zack

There is a spacer or adapter that is betweent the tranny and tcase. it is about 10"long or so. it tends to crack around sideways. It's most likely a problem when the rubber mounts on the tcase wear and the allignment is not quite correct, but i'm not sure. the only way I have seen to fix this is like I said, remove the adapter and have ribs welded on going longitudinally or on the front to back axis of the piece. take some aluminum and a die grinder and make fins that will match the profile of the sides and weld them on. If you look at a newer one and compare the transmission you will see a big difference in the structure. When it cracks it does not dissable the truck. it just leaks. I drove one of mine for over a year with the crack before I could get it apart and have time to fix it. I just cleanded it up well and put some duck tape over the crack to slow the leak and added gear lube when needed.
The first time I welded it it broke again with in six months. then I decided time for an upgrade and that's what I came up with. I would just keep an eye out for a tranny and tcase to swap in. they seem to be easy to find and will be a better solution in the end, but with some extra bracing the older ones will work. I also think that there is not a real need for the 5th gear unless your looking at changing r&p gears as the 5th gives you the option to go a little lower.
good luck