Builds My Father-in-Law's 1980 FJ40

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I can't believe how stock your 80 40 is. It even has the exhaust pipe heat shields still on the pipes. Please consider removing all of that red wiring powering the baby winch on the front bumper. That is an electrical fire waiting to happen. For a later truck, the rust is not bad for your truck. I POR15ed my frame 21 plus years ago and did not get any rust popping back out until I had to drive my truck over a few days during winter and got it covered in salt brine.
 
I can't believe how stock your 80 40 is. It even has the exhaust pipe heat shields still on the pipes. Please consider removing all of that red wiring powering the baby winch on the front bumper. That is an electrical fire waiting to happen. For a later truck, the rust is not bad for your truck. I POR15ed my frame 21 plus years ago and did not get any rust popping back out until I had to drive my truck over a few days during winter and got it covered in salt brine.
Thanks! Yes, it really has spent the last 10 years in storage and prior to that it was left stock, so not a lot has been done to it. I agree with respect to the winch. I have disconnected electrically. I plan to replace it eventually, just not high on the priority list.

Good to hear that the POR15 treatment has significant longevity. I appreciate you sharing that with me. Did you lift the body when you did your POR15? I'm doing the best I can short of that, as I don't have the ability to lift the body. Sub-optimal for sure, but the best I can do for now. I may consider it at a later date.
 
Made a little progress with the POR15, but there is still a long, long way to go...

Land Cruiser - 1 of 1 (2).webp
 
Took the cruiser to a local 4x4 shop to have a safety inspection done. Good news is that they found no immediate safety concerns. They did suggest that I address the steering first on my priority list. Here are the observations from their inspection:
  1. Road Test - Transmission
    • Clutch engages at very top of pedal travel. Likely needs replaced.
  2. Road Test - Steering / Handling
    • Pulls right. Loose. Steering wheel off center
  3. Under Car - Transmission Fluid (manual)
    • Drain plug leaking
  4. Under Car - Suspension
    • Leaf spring bushings cracked and worn.
  5. Under Car - Visible Leaks
    • Rear main possibly leaking class 2.
    • Oil pan leaking class 2.
    • Driver axle seal leaking class 2.
    • Oil cooler leaking coolant class 2.
  6. Under Car - Rear Differential Fluid
    • Brown color. Differential also makes noise. Likely needs inspection and possibly rebuilt.
  7. Under Car - Steering Components
    • Drag link from steering box to idler loose both sides. Idler arm loose.
I will continue to work on the rust and also begin to assess the steering, as well as the leaks.
 
Took the cruiser to a local 4x4 shop to have a safety inspection done. Good news is that they found no immediate safety concerns. They did suggest that I address the steering first on my priority list. Here are the observations from their inspection:
  1. Road Test - Transmission
    • Clutch engages at very top of pedal travel. Likely needs replaced.
  2. Road Test - Steering / Handling
    • Pulls right. Loose. Steering wheel off center
  3. Under Car - Transmission Fluid (manual)
    • Drain plug leaking
  4. Under Car - Suspension
    • Leaf spring bushings cracked and worn.
  5. Under Car - Visible Leaks
    • Rear main possibly leaking class 2.
    • Oil pan leaking class 2.
    • Driver axle seal leaking class 2.
    • Oil cooler leaking coolant class 2.
  6. Under Car - Rear Differential Fluid
    • Brown color. Differential also makes noise. Likely needs inspection and possibly rebuilt.
  7. Under Car - Steering Components
    • Drag link from steering box to idler loose both sides. Idler arm loose.
I will continue to work on the rust and also begin to assess the steering, as well as the leaks.
They could’ve just said, “you have an FJ40”.
 
Well, they did say that too 🤣
Basically the same thing.
But seriously, the majority of that you can do in house, that’s the beauty of these beasts.
 
I have a very similar report on mine. I rebuilt my front knuckles, installed new brake cylinders and shoes in the front, and added new tie rod ends. I also rebuilt my center arm but my steering wheel still has too much play in it so I’m going to rebuild my steering box.

I also just ordered a bunch of parts to take care of my leaks as well as a new clutch kit. Don’t do what I did and read up before ordering your parts. For example, I read after the fact that I should get a 2F flywheel and a 2F clutch kit for my F engine. I also ordered a F engine valve cover gasket, but read after the fact that I should install a 2F valve cover because the seal better. Oh well, here we are…

One more tip I will share is that you should order a dual seal speedo housing from Marks (@65swb45). I just put in my order earlier this week and after installing that and a transmission/transfer case bypass hose I should have that leak all taken care of.
 
@rfitzpatrick Can you elaborate a bit on the dual seal speedometer housing? Is this the cable end down by the left side of transmission?
 
@rfitzpatrick Can you elaborate a bit on the dual seal speedometer housing? Is this the cable end down by the left side of transmission?
The Speedo housing houses the seal before the parking brake. This is area commonly leaks. You can get a dual seal housing where, if I understand correctly, the Speedo housing has been modified to fit a dual seal which should eliminate leaking from your parking break.
 
I have a very similar report on mine. I rebuilt my front knuckles, installed new brake cylinders and shoes in the front, and added new tie rod ends. I also rebuilt my center arm but my steering wheel still has too much play in it so I’m going to rebuild my steering box.

I also just ordered a bunch of parts to take care of my leaks as well as a new clutch kit. Don’t do what I did and read up before ordering your parts. For example, I read after the fact that I should get a 2F flywheel and a 2F clutch kit for my F engine. I also ordered a F engine valve cover gasket, but read after the fact that I should install a 2F valve cover because the seal better. Oh well, here we are…

One more tip I will share is that you should order a dual seal speedo housing from Marks (@65swb45). I just put in my order earlier this week and after installing that and a transmission/transfer case bypass hose I should have that leak all taken care of.
I just realized you had an 80 so I’m not sure if the dual seal Speedo housing applies here or not.
 
I just realized you had an 80 so I’m not sure if the dual seal Speedo housing applies here or not.
Me? No…a FJ40 and an FJ45. Since my speedo cable may need replacement, I had not known about this. I’d rather do things once and if this is a better way to go, count me it!
 
Its a marathon. Not a sprint. Enjoy as you go.
 

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