Motor Mount fun

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Cruiserdrew

On the way there
Joined
Mar 15, 2003
Threads
219
Messages
15,839
Location
Sacramento, CA
I broke my front driver side motor mount when the Norcal Wagons went to Coyote Flat two weeks ago. It broke on a steep up hill with immediate fan into the shroud. I was able to continue using minimal torque and throttle until I got back to town a few hours later. At Napa I bought a length of chain and a couple of bolts and temporarily "fixed" the motor mount with the chain. That works great and I should have left well enough alone.

Today I took my new OEM mount from Cruiserdan and set out to install. Is this an easy job for the rest of you? I had a really hard time. After loosening the bolts, and pulling all the fan shroud bolts, I jacked up the motor using a floor jack and a block of wood under the pan. There was a great deal of pressure on the jack and the motor was not high enough to get the broken mount out. I then took the bolts off the passenger side mount, but when I jacked up the motor, the PS mounting bolts pulled out completely would not line back up, to set the motor down. So I had to risk fingers to get the mount back in place and let the motor down.

Once down, I built a steady stack of wood to get a 4 ton hydraulic jack under of the corner of the engine block right by the motor mount. I should have pulled the tierod, which would have made it easier but I didn't. THis is where things got scary. Jacking up on the corner, I was able to raise the engine enough to loosen up on the old mount. At the full extension of the jack I was able to get the old mount out but felt lucky I still had fingers after that, as the jack has almost no purchase on the corner of the block. To get the new mount in, I had to let everything down with the mounting ear resting on a 2x4 block. After adding a few more pieces of plywood, I was able to reposition my small jack and jack it up, then up, then up somemore. It is a bitch to get that new mount in place. Finally it went in, but guess what-I had it upsidedown and the edge of the mount hit the exhauset EGR cooler when I let the motor down. I had to repeat the entire process, first pulling the mount, then pulling it out, turning it over and putting it back in place. It was extremely difficult to get the mounting bolts lined back up in the holes. then the whole thing came down and got bolted in place. Whew-I thought i was going to loose a finger tip or two.

Sorry about the ramble, but there has to be an easier way. Could someone share that with me? Afterwards I thought about using an engine hoist to lift from the fron hook-would this have been better? How do you do this so you are not risking your fingers to place the new mount? I read about doing this with a pry bar, but there isn't any place to pry from.

What is the proper technique for replacing an FJ60 front motor mount?
 
When I replaced all the mounts in my FJ40 I pulled the top bolts from both front motor mounts from the beginning. The I lifted the motor by using a floor jack as close to the front of the pan as possible with a 4x4 or 4x6x12 stood 12" length between the jack and pan. This way I didn't have to lift so much of the motor and truck. I suppose you could put a block between the balancer and the front axle if you're really worried about your fingers (which is a good thing :) ). I don't remember if I did that or not (probably not :doh: ). I could then pull the old mounts (poke'm out from below with a screwdriver or similar) and slide the new mounts in (holding the sides so if the motor fell it hit the mount and not me). Then loosely bolt them in from the bottom. Lower the motor back down close to the mounts and thread in the top bolts; draw the mount up to the bottom of the iron motor mount bracket. Lower the motor the rest of the way down to the frame and tighten everything back up to spec.

You could use the hook with an engine hoist but since the hook is off center on the motor it might be a challenge to get the motor back on the mounts straight. But then the rear mounts are still there so that might not matter. The only other issue I see with using a hoist is the legs being in the way underneath.

Nick
 
My nephew and I just did my driver side mount. Thought I would add what I learned for future searchers.

Remove bottom nut on mount 17mm (easy)

Remove splash shield to reach and remove the top nut (not much room for a wrench but it's doable from under the rig.) My shield is in bad shape, so I just bent it down out of the way.

Loosen the bottom nut on the passenger side motor mount, but leave the nut on by 3-4 threads so the mount stud never leaves the hole.

Disconnect exhaust - 3, nuts 14mm (I couldn't get enough height on the engine with it connected)

Jack engine up (We used a bottle jack and a piece of square tubing to lift at the front drivers side corner just off the pan.)

Remove broken mount

Put new mount in place (bottom stud goes through frame bracket first, then the top stud goes in the engine tab as you SLOWLY lower the engine.

Reconnect exhaust

Install both mount nuts, tighten passenger side nut.

Reinstall splash shield



I had already bent my fan shroud to eliminate rubbing on a wheeling trip, so we didn't need to remove it, but I would imagine it would be neccessary normally.

Important!!!! Raising the engine disconnected a bunch of vacuum lines! Mark your lines or have an emissions manual handy. Luckily my buddy's rig was there for reference.
 
Next time,,,,

remove nut on bottom of mount, loosen nut on top.

Do this for both mounts.

Lift engine up a little.

remove "strut" from engine ( 3 bolts).

replece mount, replace strut.

torque everything up....done

Much easier.

( may need to remove / move smog pump)

on pass side, just move a/c compressor.
 
On the topic of replacing motor mounts, has anyone else had problems with the motor mounts breaking a lot. I replaced a motor mount about a year ago then about 2 months ago i broke the new off-road.
 
Did both sides on my '83 a couple of years ago using an engine hoist & a stout chain. Can't remember the details, but it wasn't easy. I wouldn't ever consider using floor or bottle jacks without the hoist.
 
I studied the job for several minutes, then I called my local dealer. They quoted me something like $200 with parts, so I let them do it. It must have been a bear for the technican, because the front office person said the tech didn't want to ever see my truck again!
 
I have had my engine rebuild and I replaced it. To put that new driver side mount back in was a bitch, for some reason. I noticed after some 800 miles after rebuild, I noticed the driver side mount has moved to the rear from the top ( pulling the rubber back with it). More torque on that side, I don't know. But I noticed the same on the original driver side mount when taking the engine out.
 
soggy60 said:
Next time,,,,

remove nut on bottom of mount, loosen nut on top.

Do this for both mounts.

Lift engine up a little.

remove "strut" from engine ( 3 bolts).

replece mount, replace strut.

torque everything up....done

Much easier.

( may need to remove / move smog pump)

on pass side, just move a/c compressor.

What is the "strut"?
 
I just saw this old thread, and I agree with soggy, that pulling off the motor support bracket would have made this job easier. Next time, though, I'm going to use an engine hoist to lift the motor from above. Sill, if the new motor mounts last the same 22 years as the originals, I'll be 67 before I need to do this job again!
 
I did my driver side in December, used the bottle jack under the front of engine, didn't loose any fingers. I took it slow (it was cold too), made sure everything was stable. I also loosened the rear mount nuts so that it wouldn't be damaged.

At the time, I was also replacing the smog pump and power steering pump, so I had more access with those out of the way.

A hoist would be more stable, but any hoist legs under the vehicle would have been inconvenient.

Hopefully, I will have many years to consider the very best way to do this before I'll need to do it again!

Andy
 
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