Mirror Housing Free Pivot

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Jan 29, 2010
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The other thread that offers solutions to this problem is closed, so this posting will connect to the old closed website and open the topic again. Find the closed posting HERE.

Just spent an evening repairing my driver's side mirror that freely pivoted forward and backwards with every brake application and acceleration. Seems the housing and mirror is mounted on a post with a spring that provides tension for securing the mirror in three positions: pivoted forward, middle/normal position and tucked back.

My temporary solution was duct tape - I thought it rather fitting since my Lx450 is sliver. Not sure it met with approval from the other Lexi vehicles on the road.

Many solutions were offered at the website mentioned above: I tried two. Forget the "drill through the post and use a nail to hold the spring down" solution. The post is made of pot metal and the top of the post shears right off under spring tension. I tried it with a cotter pin and it lasted about 5 mins.

The seemingly best option next to simply replacing the entire mirror assembly from a auto recycler/junkyard (which, by the way, will probably save you a bunch of time) is to use a 3/8 inch bolt with fender washers and a nylock nut on the bottom. You will need to re-route the electrical supply to the mirror motor as the electrical wire normally threads through the middle of the hollow mounting post. I'll post a pic of my solution.

Total time was about 2 hrs but I'm a goof when it comes to this kind of thing. Here's hoping this will make it quicker for you.

Heres a couple of tips:
1. the first screw you should remove is on the bottom of the mirror housing in the dead center of the bottom. The mirror is suspended by two "hangers" and anchored by this bolt. After removing the screw, gently gently gently wiggle the mirror side to side and UP to release it from the hangars. You have the mirror and the motor in your hand.

2. You will see 3 wires: tan, red and black. Write down the order they plug into the mirror motor and pull them straight out, exposing blade connectors. Did I mention it would be very smart to write down the order of the tan, red and black wires?

3. With the mirror out of the housing, you will see 4 screws. Take them out, then tuck the mirror housing backwards and flat against the drivers window. You will see a very small screw on the convex side of the housing that was closest to the door (now pointing forward). Take it out.

4. The housing can now be removed from the black frame and from the post. Assembly is reverse.

5. The spring is held in tension by two tiny "ears" or bumps at the top of the post that trap a C-shaped washer. Seems a pretty flimsy way to do it to me, but heck, mine lasted about 15 years before wearing out.

6. Go to this post for further instructions on tensioning the spring and reassembling the unit. Good pics and ideas there.


Here are links to a couple of pics - can't seem to get them to post here, so here are the links to Picasa Web.

First, this what happens when you use the last suggestion in the former thread. I drilled a hole and placed a cotter pin in the top of the post to hold the spring in place - it sheared under spring tension quickly. Not good.

https://picasaweb.google.com/116993952309731219926/September1201202#5783453909651446178

Here is my re-route solution for the mirror motor - I simply enlarged a rectangular hole located toward the rear of the housing. Look for the black wire in the first picture.

https://picasaweb.google.com/116993952309731219926/September1201202#5783460436546746754

The second picture also shows the top of the bolt with flat washers holding the spring down. Yes, that is a grade 8 bolt and washers - not taking any chances.

https://picasaweb.google.com/116993952309731219926/September1201202#5783460436546746754

Hope all this is helpful - I found the previous post invaluable for my project tonight.
 
You don't have to re-route the wiring for the motor. It will fit up through the center post along with the thru bolt. However, in order for that to work you do need to grind a flat spot out of the washers so that the wire doesn't get pinched. Its pretty easy, takes an extra 2 minutes with the bench grinder.
 

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