Maytag Neptune washer repair

[Kernal]

I'm in the middle of tearing down a 13 year old Maytag Neptune, MAH 3000 AWW, the front loading washer from hell. Long story short; poor design and a few cheap components in critical areas.

Here's some background. There are two major problem areas; the original rear tub bearings burn up very quickly due to poorly designed seals allowing water to get into them. When that happens the washer sounds like a jet fighter or freight train running through your house during the high speed spin cycles.

The other problem area is caused by a faulty "wax motor" (actually a switch) that when it shorts out fries two components of the main control board, a R11 resistor and something called a Q6 Triac(transistor). When that happens the tub will not spin after a rinse cycle leaving the clothes full of water and the door will not lock. In some early models there were three of these wax motors, two controlled the water flow during various cycles.

Last night I got the machine torn down all the way except got stopped by the outer tub bearing which is rusted in place, still working to get that out.

Top photo shows the burned R11 resistor and to it's right the Q6 Triac. Middle photo shows the wax motor with a brown stem, the new ones have a black stem; if you have an old motor and it hasn't burned out yet you should replace it immediately before it fries your control board. Bottom photo shows the gear puller used to get the inner tub drive wheel off it's spindle.

Someone has already documented most of the process before you get to the bearings with photos so to save time here's his link:

Maytag Neptune Drum Bearing Replacement

 

[Kernal]

Here's what the bearings looked like at first glance. Once I got the inner tub/spinner spindle and rear bearing out I found a handful of rusty grit and muck inside the hub assembly. Top photo is rear bearing and inner tub spindle. Middle photo shows the front bearing and seal. Bottom is the front bearing after removing the seal and cleaning it up. Rust is holding that bearing in, it wouldn't budge after trying a couple different penetrating oils and a large pilot bearing puller, and no go with hammer and drift from behind. Next I'll try to remove more of the rust that appears to be holding the bearing in, may have to cut it out.

 

[Kernal]

A wide shot of the inner tub and front bearing, not a lot of room to work, a close up of the front bearing showing the rust, and last the rear bearing removed looking at the backside of the front bearing. There was a spacer located inbetween the two bearings (not shown in these photos), I'm not sure what it's purpose is, as the two bearings butt up against a lip and can't be driven in beyond that. It appears that the spacer would just rattle around the spindle. I'll add more photos later.

 

[pillguy]

Where is the maytag repair man??

 

[Kernal]

They don't replace the bearings, they want to sell you a new tub with the bearings already installed for about $500, not counting labor. The whole job if done by a repairman would be around $1000 including the control board, which is the cost of new machine. I'm mailing the main control board to a guy who has repaired a few thousand, it will only cost about $40 to have a new improved R11 resistor and Q6 Triac installed along with a few more improved/higher voltage parts on the board. I'm also replacing all three wax motors ($36), one locks the door the other two control water flow. I picked up NSK 6206 and 6207 double sealed bearings from Motion Industries, much better than what was originally used ($50), and a seal kit, ($40) with an improved seal. So when it's all done $170 in parts for the repair. I could have saved $30-40 if I had picked up cheapo Chinese bearings but I don't plan on doing this again for a long time. I'll also be adding a dedicated industrial strength surge protector for the washer and dryer as apparently the electronics of these boards can get fried too easily by power spikes.

 

[nspctr1]

We just replaced our old set of Maytags a year or so ago with new ones. I could not be anymore disappointed. They are noisey and damage clothing on a consistent basis.
.02

 

[splitshot]

Just my .02, our top load is going on 25+ years with only a pressure switch fail. I will keep rebuilding it and replace it when it dies with a rebuilt 25 year old top load machine..

 

[AJP]

Very nice write-up Kernal and terrific photo's (Im a little envious cause I should have documented my comparatively small adventure with an old Miele)

Just my .02, our top load is going on 25+ years with only a pressure switch fail. I will keep rebuilding it and replace it when it dies with a rebuilt 25 year old top load machine..

I have had very good luck so far (fingers crossed) with a Whirlpool front loader and still waiting to be impressed with a Miele front loader. Front loaders have a few advantages - they seem to be gentler (my experience only) they seem to clean well, they take sleeping bags and duvets and they EXTRACT water very well which makes the dryer time more rapid (cheaper?)

Personally though I would be happy with a 25 year old Maytag top loader and an extractor if I could find one that would take a full laundry load. Course a clothes line is ultra inexpensive and an ecologically sound use of solar and wind energy!!! But a pain in the butt when the snow is a couple feet deep

 

[cruiser88]

I took a break

Where is the maytag repair man??

 

[fj40charles]

We just replaced our old set of Maytags a year or so ago with new ones. I could not be anymore disappointed. They are noisey and damage clothing on a consistent basis.
.02

Old ones are reliable and what made Maytag famous for reliability. The new Maytags are not reliable at all.

 

[fsusteve]

another benefit to front loaders is they use alot less water which if you're one a septic system like me is big.

 

[splitshot]

Our's waters the trees, along with the master shower.

 

[Mace]

From what I have heard the expensive front loaders will never least as long as the top loaders.

Fronts are cool and all, but I really like being able to ignore my washer/dryer for years..

 

[cruiser88]

Yep, you should see some of the s*** that passed through the shop. Christ its a wonder some of these brands even start.
Lowe's at a certain store gives me whatever trade in I want that was given to them. More times than one I used to grab several front loaders, normally washers. Never did I grab the same make or model in the same trip and the goal was to fix at least one per trip, wasnt hard really. Parts are so standerdized these days , you could fix one even using another model, minus the boards of course.

Biggest issue with a front loader washer is idiots using the wrong soap.

Sears is a joke, Sears buys all their appliances directly from the manufacture without a warranty. They may pay 50 bucks on a 300 dollar washer per say and offer you a warranty for a outrages price and if it dies they will fix it, if it dies again and it was the same problem they can opt out to fawk you on it.

From what I have heard the expensive front loaders will never least as long as the top loaders.

Fronts are cool and all, but I really like being able to ignore my washer/dryer for years..