I've posted this in another forum, but trust y'all more than the new guys. I really can't believe it's this hard to figure out how to wire a generator to the house in FL...that loses power frequently...for days at a time. Probably a home builder cheap out IMO. Here's the other post.
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I purchased the Westinghouse Tri-Fuel 11,500 generator after a few months of research. Initially wanted a solar/battery backup setup but realized the power output isn't quite where I need it for the cost.
I've lived on the Florida Gulf for 13 years and survived w/o a generator, but for $1350 the Westinghouse seemed to fit budget and needs.
Priorities would be HVAC (4 ton) during summer and select interior lights/outlets inside the home. I will install a soft start on the A/C condenser. Inside wants would be the main living area tv, wifi router, overhead lights and garage so 1-2 refrigerators can run. I can always unplug the garage fridge if required. 2800 sq ft home, if that matters.
My stove, water heater and furnace run off natural gas. I plan to hire a plumber for a natural gas T extension off the main to feed the generator.
PROBLEM: Neither my exterior main panel or interior garage sub panel have main cutoff breakers. Initially the interlock type devices seemed like the cheapest option, but given my layout I do not think this is possible w/o considerable rewiring and expense. GenerLink is not approved by FP&L so I'd have to purchase the hybrid model for $1k.
EXTERIOR PANEL (main feeds sub-panel in garage)
SUB-PANEL
GENERATOR LOCATION
Ideally I'd create a shelter/pad/semi-permanent setup for the generator and park it between the A/C unit and natural gas meter. Closest window goes to the garage, for reference.
I'm perfectly comfortable adding circuits to my sub-panel, but this is new territory. If I hire an electrician I want to have a solid plan in place so I don't get steamrolled.
I'm leaning towards a 100 amp/240V emergency power transfer switch setup. Home Depot # TC10323R
Are there better options? Will the linked transfer switch work? Thank you.
Copied below
I purchased the Westinghouse Tri-Fuel 11,500 generator after a few months of research. Initially wanted a solar/battery backup setup but realized the power output isn't quite where I need it for the cost.
I've lived on the Florida Gulf for 13 years and survived w/o a generator, but for $1350 the Westinghouse seemed to fit budget and needs.
Priorities would be HVAC (4 ton) during summer and select interior lights/outlets inside the home. I will install a soft start on the A/C condenser. Inside wants would be the main living area tv, wifi router, overhead lights and garage so 1-2 refrigerators can run. I can always unplug the garage fridge if required. 2800 sq ft home, if that matters.
My stove, water heater and furnace run off natural gas. I plan to hire a plumber for a natural gas T extension off the main to feed the generator.
PROBLEM: Neither my exterior main panel or interior garage sub panel have main cutoff breakers. Initially the interlock type devices seemed like the cheapest option, but given my layout I do not think this is possible w/o considerable rewiring and expense. GenerLink is not approved by FP&L so I'd have to purchase the hybrid model for $1k.
EXTERIOR PANEL (main feeds sub-panel in garage)
SUB-PANEL
GENERATOR LOCATION
Ideally I'd create a shelter/pad/semi-permanent setup for the generator and park it between the A/C unit and natural gas meter. Closest window goes to the garage, for reference.
I'm perfectly comfortable adding circuits to my sub-panel, but this is new territory. If I hire an electrician I want to have a solid plan in place so I don't get steamrolled.
I'm leaning towards a 100 amp/240V emergency power transfer switch setup. Home Depot # TC10323R
Are there better options? Will the linked transfer switch work? Thank you.
