Hi all.
2012 Lexus LX570 in Australia.
Had an issue where audio system could turn on, but no sound and volume didnt change, as well as no power seat functionality on left side.
After some research, checked the driver and passenger kick panel areas. They have 2 or 3 (depending on side) large block connectors on each side, with 10mm bolt running down the centre keeping the connectors together.
Pulled them apart and look for green crustyness and/or any broken pins.
Sure enough;
- Left side, top connector, some green corrosion on some pins and one broken pin (pin 35 blue/black wire which turns into solid blue on other side)
- Left side, middle connector, no issues
- Left side, bottom connector, total of 4 wires completely broken off from rear of back connector and broken pins inside the female side of the connector
- Right side top and bottom connector in great shape, a little green corrosion not much
Unbolted the connectors centre bolts, unclipped the housings from where they attach to the inner fender, so that you can get to the rear side of the connector blocks. I had to take off the scuff plates, free up the big loom to give it more play to be able to do so. Its a bit of messing around but its do-able and would strongly recommend it if anyone has electrical gremlins
Used Deox R5 and a little paint brush. Sprayed into the connectors, used the brush to work it in and clean up corrosion.
Removed broken pins using little side cutters
Need to have a really good eye for the little pins to see if any have snapped off inside of the female sides of the connectors.
I didnt go to the effort of buying whole new blocks / harnesses, but instead I ran jump wires of the same gauge, from side to side in good parts of the harness, for any broken off pins/wires so as to patch it.
I also found some white crud in the fuse boxes of both sides. Removed every fuse, deoxed both the fuses and fuse boxes, worked it in with paint brush, let it settle half hour and re-assembled. Checked every connector under both sides of the dash and no other issues found
Found the root cause to be the 2x sunroof drains (visible when you open the sunroof and pop your head up and check both front corners) being blocked and not allowing drainage of water. As a result, it would cause the flow of water to overflow on the top edge and direct itself into the pillars internally. Used a combination of stuff, such as trimmer line etc to clear out the the drainage and now no water gets in. Tested the other day in a big storm here in Sydney and all good now thankfully!
Result after the above steps, were that the left hand power seat came back to life, but the audio issue remained.
Carrying on;
Ran the diagnostic test (hold info, turn light switch to parker->OFF->parker-OFF 3 times) and the diag menu came up on the screen.
No errors found oddly, however when I clicked MOST to check the MOST chain I found only the nav unit and AMP came up as OK but no mention of the RSE rear seat module. In contrast, it should usually say NCON to say its not connected, or post an error, but it didnt oddly.
I probed the amps power feeds which come from bottom left block connector and all good there too on the amps side. That along with no error codes in diags, i was confident the ML amp was probably OK.
Following some posts on here and youtube, I went under the right side seat to the RSE module and I looped out the MOST (brown) connector by jumping across the 1st and 3rd pin and jumping 2nd and 4th pin, so as to create a loopback on the MOST connector and bang , audio came back to life perfectly - with the exception of the rear headrest entertainment system of course not working, because it was clearly faulty and now looped out.
Being a 2012, different module part number (though same problem the overhead DVD units cause in pre 2012), showing as:
86110-60090 CY-VT41K0AJ Panasonic
Thinking long term I dont really want to keep it looped out forever, be good to have separate rear entertainment for the kids with headphones.
I am electrically inclined, having played around since a teen and have good soldering and hot air station equipment etc. Fixed many things (VCRs, old CRT TVs, game PCB boards, older car ECUs) and over the years also had a mixed basket of things that didnt get fixed. But the older stuff was kind of easier, just capacitors transistors resistors, the odd IC , not as complex as the micro PCBs today.
Before sending the unit away for an $800 repair, I was wondering if anyone has given it a look or crack at least even opening the casing to it and checking the PCB inside. I havent been able to find a single photo or video of what these modules look like inside, unlike heaps of videos and photos of ML amps internals.
If so, does anyone have photos or does anyone have one lying around they could open up and post a photo. I should have pulled my module out while I was under there but ran out of time and its all reassembled now and partners back to driving it for now.
Not sure if someone had one just lying about already outside of the car (even one from a 2010 shape) and could take a pic possibly or share an experience if theyve given it a crack. Curious what the PCB layout looks like . Just couldnt find any schematic or photos, but if i had an idea of how it looked, id know if its worth giving a crack to diagnose and repair over the holiday break.
Thanks.
2012 Lexus LX570 in Australia.
Had an issue where audio system could turn on, but no sound and volume didnt change, as well as no power seat functionality on left side.
After some research, checked the driver and passenger kick panel areas. They have 2 or 3 (depending on side) large block connectors on each side, with 10mm bolt running down the centre keeping the connectors together.
Pulled them apart and look for green crustyness and/or any broken pins.
Sure enough;
- Left side, top connector, some green corrosion on some pins and one broken pin (pin 35 blue/black wire which turns into solid blue on other side)
- Left side, middle connector, no issues
- Left side, bottom connector, total of 4 wires completely broken off from rear of back connector and broken pins inside the female side of the connector
- Right side top and bottom connector in great shape, a little green corrosion not much
Unbolted the connectors centre bolts, unclipped the housings from where they attach to the inner fender, so that you can get to the rear side of the connector blocks. I had to take off the scuff plates, free up the big loom to give it more play to be able to do so. Its a bit of messing around but its do-able and would strongly recommend it if anyone has electrical gremlins
Used Deox R5 and a little paint brush. Sprayed into the connectors, used the brush to work it in and clean up corrosion.
Removed broken pins using little side cutters
Need to have a really good eye for the little pins to see if any have snapped off inside of the female sides of the connectors.
I didnt go to the effort of buying whole new blocks / harnesses, but instead I ran jump wires of the same gauge, from side to side in good parts of the harness, for any broken off pins/wires so as to patch it.
I also found some white crud in the fuse boxes of both sides. Removed every fuse, deoxed both the fuses and fuse boxes, worked it in with paint brush, let it settle half hour and re-assembled. Checked every connector under both sides of the dash and no other issues found
Found the root cause to be the 2x sunroof drains (visible when you open the sunroof and pop your head up and check both front corners) being blocked and not allowing drainage of water. As a result, it would cause the flow of water to overflow on the top edge and direct itself into the pillars internally. Used a combination of stuff, such as trimmer line etc to clear out the the drainage and now no water gets in. Tested the other day in a big storm here in Sydney and all good now thankfully!
Result after the above steps, were that the left hand power seat came back to life, but the audio issue remained.
Carrying on;
Ran the diagnostic test (hold info, turn light switch to parker->OFF->parker-OFF 3 times) and the diag menu came up on the screen.
No errors found oddly, however when I clicked MOST to check the MOST chain I found only the nav unit and AMP came up as OK but no mention of the RSE rear seat module. In contrast, it should usually say NCON to say its not connected, or post an error, but it didnt oddly.
I probed the amps power feeds which come from bottom left block connector and all good there too on the amps side. That along with no error codes in diags, i was confident the ML amp was probably OK.
Following some posts on here and youtube, I went under the right side seat to the RSE module and I looped out the MOST (brown) connector by jumping across the 1st and 3rd pin and jumping 2nd and 4th pin, so as to create a loopback on the MOST connector and bang , audio came back to life perfectly - with the exception of the rear headrest entertainment system of course not working, because it was clearly faulty and now looped out.
Being a 2012, different module part number (though same problem the overhead DVD units cause in pre 2012), showing as:
86110-60090 CY-VT41K0AJ Panasonic
Thinking long term I dont really want to keep it looped out forever, be good to have separate rear entertainment for the kids with headphones.
I am electrically inclined, having played around since a teen and have good soldering and hot air station equipment etc. Fixed many things (VCRs, old CRT TVs, game PCB boards, older car ECUs) and over the years also had a mixed basket of things that didnt get fixed. But the older stuff was kind of easier, just capacitors transistors resistors, the odd IC , not as complex as the micro PCBs today.
Before sending the unit away for an $800 repair, I was wondering if anyone has given it a look or crack at least even opening the casing to it and checking the PCB inside. I havent been able to find a single photo or video of what these modules look like inside, unlike heaps of videos and photos of ML amps internals.
If so, does anyone have photos or does anyone have one lying around they could open up and post a photo. I should have pulled my module out while I was under there but ran out of time and its all reassembled now and partners back to driving it for now.
Not sure if someone had one just lying about already outside of the car (even one from a 2010 shape) and could take a pic possibly or share an experience if theyve given it a crack. Curious what the PCB layout looks like . Just couldnt find any schematic or photos, but if i had an idea of how it looked, id know if its worth giving a crack to diagnose and repair over the holiday break.
Thanks.
