LX 570 Stereo Solutions (1 Viewer)

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Greetings ladies and gents.
So the LX 470's and the earlier 570's did not have the Bluetooth / Android Auto / Apple Carplay options that we have all become accustomed to in the modern age.
There are workarounds for this, and I thought I would compile these into a thread.
The following is a list of the current options that I am aware of. Please post any others that you know of.

Tablet

Perusing the boards, there are posts on adding a Chinese Android Tesla-style tablet, for which there are currently a few manufacturers. Some others on the board have written good guides for installing these. This looks good if you want the most modern solution, but you add potential issues in that all of the controls and buttons for the climate, navigation, cameras and stereo are wrapped into one (you will use Android or Apple Maps instead of Lexus). If there are any software issues with the tablet then you might lose function of everything in one fell swoop. Cost is the other consideration. This option works out to be $1200 +, some options being extra so you'd have to take this into account.

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Belsee's 13.6 option does look pretty neat, and there are a few how-to posts installing it.


Grom Vline 2

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The Grom V2 looks to be an excellent option for full functionality of apps from your phone, such as Android Auto or Apple Carplay.
You can use apps such as Spotify, Web Radio, Google Music and Pandora. You can also use navigation from Google Maps, Waze, Sygic, and others.
Using this will modernize your LX to the current standard, and allow you to keep the Lexus screen with less difficulty in installation.
The cost for this option will be north of $680 for the hardware.
There are also a few install posts on this.


Qudelix-5K Bluetooth USB DAC AMP

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This is the cheapest option available and the one I went with, resulting in very satisfactory audio output. The device can be set to automatically come on with power, has damn near unlimited audio configuration through the app, can connect to two devices, and has an internal battery.

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Cost for this is currently $109.98.
Note: You have to pick up a 2.5 to 3.5 audio cable such as this one due to the 3.5 output on the device having significantly lower output (2v vs 4v). The LX 570 audio connector is a 3.5.

Hope this helps anyone frustrated with the audio input options available on these otherwise fantastic vehicles.
 
How's the sound on that Bluetooth unit? That's a good price.

Yeah, it's a full mini dac. Those things used to be expensive, but technology is inherently deflationary, even when going against the inflationary environment we find ourselves in.
A lot cheaper now.
 
"Carplay tablet"
Which has both FM or AUX output
$140

If you are running a separate BT front end to your DSP/HU you can connect the phone to that output after CarPlay initiates, and control with the tablet while sourcing from the phone. It is two more clicks on the phone.

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I use a WiiM streamer as the BT target. It doesn’t have a good DAC in it for AUX use, but it is amazing (over 200db) as a BT to optical device. Because it is home based there is one time network setup, after that it doesn’t seem to care.

This probably won’t apply to most, as I’ve replaced the OEM amplification completely.

HU -> DSP -> 3 amps or
BT -> WiiM-> optical -> DSP-> 3 amps

Are my signal paths. The fully digital sourced path is noticeably cleaner.

Unfortunately the DSP BT dongle has an issue with Apple Music. It works flawlessly with my the Iphone for other apps, but dumps the music connection immediately 3 to 10 times. It will then be stable until a gap in the feed (pause, switch content). The WiiM has no such issues.

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"Carplay tablet"
Which has both FM or AUX output
$140

If you are running a separate BT front end to your DSP/HU you can connect the phone to that output after CarPlay initiates, and control with the tablet while sourcing from the phone. It is two more clicks on the phone.
That's also a good price. Does the device run Android Auto/Apple natively?
 
Note: You have to pick up a 2.5 to 3.5 audio cable such as this one due to the 3.5 output on the device having significantly lower output (2v vs 4v). The LX 570 audio connector is a 3.5.
The reason the output of the 2.5mm connector is greater is because it's a balanced output. It appears in this case to be working, connecting the 2.5mm TRRS port to a 3.5m TRS port, but the input on the LX is almost definitely unbalanced, so I'd be surprised if you were getting any benefit over using a 3.5mm TRS to 3.5mm TRS cable. 2v is plenty of output (probably as much as the LX can take anyways) and more than most portable devices for an unbalanced connection.
 
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The reason the output of the 2.5mm connector is greater is because it's a balanced output. It appears in this case to be working, connecting the 2.5mm TRRS port to a 3.5m TRS port, but the input on the LX is almost definitely unbalanced, so I'd be surprised if you were getting any benefit over using a 3.5mm TRS to 3.5mm TRS cable. 2v is plenty of output (probably as much as the LX can take anyways) and more than most portable devices for an unbalanced connection.
You are correct on the balanced vs the unbalanced. There is a massive difference between using the outputs, the 3.5 you can barely hear anything, the 2.5 is excellent with the phone amp control on the dac.
 
New member, just found the site. I have a quick question: I have a '13 LX570 with dead audio. The dealership just had it for a month, swapped out several components, and returned it to me still dead. My first thought is to swap the head unit to an aftermarket (actually, that was my third thoughts; my first was the dreaded dead amp, based on the secret menu diagnostics - and second thought was to output via bluetooth to an external speaker, which does not seem to work.)
Has anyone replaced a dead head unit with an aftermarket - and did that solve all the problems? I'd rather not create more headaches than I am addressing.

And thanks in advance for any help.
 
There are several levels of external HU.
CarPlay screen - it’s just a display and audio pass through, you need a full OEM signal path to use . Several headless options here too, but they all require full OEM function
Android HU - it’s a replacement for the console pieces. But it uses the OEM amp
Android HU with amp - there are very few of these but they do exist. Usually the amp will go under the seat like OEM. This is not the same as ‘onboard amp, like 4x50w’ that is useless as the ML systems have 12 powered channels.
Aftermarket amplification - you roll your own dsp and amp solution. Could use the stock HU as an input device, or ignore it entirely and use phone or CarPlay or steaming box as a source.
Price goes up from top to bottom.
 

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