Looking for help with a V8 Fj60 conversion (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 3, 2005
Threads
3
Messages
27
Location
Upstate SC
I recently acquired a V8 FJ60 with a chevy 350 conversion, and I am looking for the right board to post tech issues. Is this it or does anyone know of a better one? As popular as the conversion is I was hoping for a board dedicated to it.

Right now I'm having some trouble with a clutch hydraulics issue. I'm still trying to decide what parts I have, but it really looks like a Toyota master with a Chevy slave... Is this the right place to post?

Thanks,
Christine
 
here, or the 60/62 60/62 tech board here,

But do you know what conversion kit has been used?

and can you upload some pics of what you have if not to this thread?

Normally, an adjustable push rod can solve the noirmal issue, unless the cause is like V8 hilux conversion, where the exhaust runs to close to the slave .
 
It seems we have a stock Chevy bell housing with some sort of adaptor that appears homemade. The problem is, I’m not exactly sure what’s going on inside the bell housing.

The clutch starts to engage near the floor and finishes way too high. The pedal travel is definitely wrong. It looks like a Toyota master with a Chevy slave (not sure about this). The slave push rod looks cobbled together, like it’s cut and welded. Possibly to avoid the exhaust, I can’t remember. Any suggestion on how to identify the slave as stock or not?

I’m thinking if we do have a Toyota master with a Chevy slave the master diameter might be too small to push the slave to the right depth, and a Toyota slave might not have enough travel for whatever the heck is going on inside our mystery bell housing. I’m really not sure of the clutch or pressure plate specifics.

I’ll try to get some pictures tomorrow when it’s light out.
 
toyota slaves are usually small diameter, either 3/4 or 7/8 bore, and will have more travel than some GM ones...but that DOES vary.....

Pics will help a ton, seeing the parts will help ID them
 
WOW.....

Im a little lost for words after looking at the boogerweld adaptor set up......

The extra throw on the fork is issue one, and a toyota slave should work with a standard fork, chev and toyota use the same spline in the 60, and you should be able to use the bigger dia chev clutch and pressure plate, if you re drill the flywheel to suit.

Once this has been done, your engagement issues should dissapear, and if heat from the exhaust is a problem, a heat shield from under the 2 toyota mount bolts for the slave will fix that issue.

The last clutch I had made for my 40 and 45 series, we removed the marsell from the centre of the clutch plate, to avoid slippage/heat build up, and also meant the clutch worked in half the pedal movement as well, allowing for adjustment, faster changes, and no slippage which allws heat build up, though I was running 430hp and 38's with 4.11 diffs.
 
can you adjust the rod to get the clutch to correctly engage?

looks like a chevy fullsize truck slave from the 83 to 89 or so style truck,

toyota fork, with extension on it.

slave and master bores are usually matched in size, or master slightly bigger.
The chevy slave could have a similiar bore size.
 
Thanks for the identification of the Mystery slave!! That sort of makes sense. Maybe I'll go see if Napa has one I can compare it against.

I agree on the toyota fork. It needs the extension to clear the bell housing.

The problem isn't actually with the clutch engaging, but rather the ammount you have to push the pedal to make it engage and disengage. The clutch disengages right next to the floorboard and is fully engaged with your foot way off the floor to the point that my knee just about touches the steering wheel. I don't think there is anything else left to adjust because with the current master/slave setup it requires that travel.

So basically I think we have a mismatched master slave combo, and I would like to go back to the toyota slave, and Spector has a mount that will do it. HOWEVER, the plot thickens. Now we have the Mystery bastardized bell housing to contend with! :confused: Not only does it have the Mystery mount welded to it, but it appears to be cut away in a manner such as to accomidate the starter. I think the part that was cut away had the mounting points for the Spector bracket.

Additionally, we have a mystery clutch, flywheel, Pressure plate, adaptor, and throw out bearing to contend with. Hmmm...

Looks like we might need a new bell housing to accomidate the slave mount, but I think it has to be a specific model to fit in the FJ60 channel, and while we're at it we can try to identify the interior mystery components.

I've read all sorts of contradictory things on the internet about which components are compatable and which aren't, and I would love for anyone to tell me a complete list of components that they are running that will make this setup work.

What Truck?
What engine?
What trans?
Adaptor type?
Adaptor thickness?
Bell housing?
Master?
Slave?
Slave mount, Spector?
Clutch?
Flywheel?
Pressure plate?
Fork?

I really appreciate all the help! This forum's really great. It seems there are lots of knowledgable people. Now I'm starting to want an fj40... If only we weren't limited for parking. Can you mount an infant seat in a 40? Nevermind, that's for another forum.

Thanks,
Christine
 
V8FJ60 said:
I've read all sorts of contradictory things on the internet about which components are compatable and which aren't, and I would love for anyone to tell me a complete list of components that they are running that will make this setup work.

What Truck?
What engine?
What trans?
Adaptor type?
Adaptor thickness?
Bell housing?
Master?
Slave?
Slave mount, Spector?
Clutch?
Flywheel?
Pressure plate?
Fork?

You'll find those same contradictions everywhere...no two people build their rigs the same, and even a minor difference may allow something to work on your and not work on the next one. Cooling a V8 is the most Irritating, to say the least....lol

My old setup, just removed....FJ40, 350TBI, SM465 granny, 'MUD prototype alum plate adapter, 72 FJ40 t-case, GM stock alum bellhousing, Toy master, toy slave, AdvanceAdapters slave mount, LUK GM stock clutch, stock GM flywheel, cast iron early fork.

new setup....350TBI, 700R, Sunray adapter, Dana 300, lots of other boring stuff.....
 
Here is what it is supposed to look like:
clutchslave.jpg


I have had good luck on several conversions using the FJ40 master cylinder and the LC slave cylinder as shown in Woody's pic above. IMO if you use a Toyota MC you need to use the LC slave in order to achieve enough travel given the limited volume.
 
Last edited:
I like it! In fact that's a beautiful picture! Thank you so much. Man that looks so much better than what I have :lol

Do you know what year (aprox) and model that bell housing is? Will it fit in a 60?

Is that the advanceAdaptor's slave mount the Woody mentioned?

Thanks,
 
Ooh! and, does anyone know what this is?

I need to start a website : www.namemyLCpart.com

I'm not familar with this type of bell housing, but a guy my husband works with speculated it has to do with racing or something.
mystery housing.jpg
 
Medusa,

My husband has a few more questions about the picture you posted. First, What did you mount the return spring to? did you have to fab something?

Also, and this is a funny one, but is that actually on the Driver's side, because that could explain a lot.

Thanks,
C
 
OK, multiple ideas and problems.

Dusa's pic shows a drivers side use of a toyota slave with a chevy engine, bell and trans.

Your pic uses a blow proof bellhousing (racing and some adapters use) and has the clutch fork on the passanger side.

This is important because about 98% of all stock chevy bells have a drivers clutch fork. Why well mostly cause of the starter.

I will snap a pic of the chevy slave i have here, and let you compare with yours.

BTW did we lose the first pic above?

What does that sticker say on the bell?
 
Last edited:
The return spring in dusa's pic is a stock spring bracket for a landcruiser where its next to the slave,
You could easily fab something. and just attached to the fork.


Drivers or passanger side does not matter, i used a chevy bell (drivers fork), and a downey bell (passenger fork). Just as long as stuff matches up nicely it will not be a big deal.


IF you want snap alot more pics and email them to me, i will help I.D your parts for you.

You mention the bell is cut to fit the starter in there? is it just notched a little where the round outter section is? if it is sounds like it was cut to fit a automatic nosed starter where a manual nose starter is suppose to be.
 
Ah, so that answers both of my lingering questions: 1) how everyone seems to get away with less clutch line, and 2) what the giant hole in my bell housing on the driver side is for.

Hmmm... I think I need a shopping list.
 
is there a adapter plate behind the bell before the transmission? or is the bell the adapter?

i would think the easiest way would be to go with a cruiser slave and make a bracket to use the fork as it is right now. Bolt on style, or weld if you can get up there.
The cruiser slave bolts on different, so you might be able to get the slave close enough to the bell so you could take off the extension piece for the fork.
 
The adapter is in fact behind the bell before the trans.

The facinating thing is that if you look really closely at that bizarre picture you notice there are actually 2 holes between the slave and the racket that may or may not line up with the stock LC slave.
 
Chevy bell from a mid or late 80's fullsize with hydraulic clutch.

Stock bolt on a cruiser slave is really close to 1 3/4" center the center.

Another option, hydraulic throwout.
P6280003 sm.jpg
 
So, I breifly looked up hydraulic throwout, which I was not familar with, and it sounds really interesting. That would really fix things. Is anyone running that? Will it work with a Toyota master?

We looked at moving the slave to the driver side (like everyone else) and using the advanced adaptor, but that's where our exhaust runs now.

It sure would be nice to get rid of the slave altogether (assuming that's what a hydraulic throwout does). I like a symetrical exhaust on a V engine, and that would free up the space. I don't see why this wouldn't be a good idea. Would this make for a new post or should I leave it here?

I tried to get some good pictures of our general layout, but I couldn't get the camera far enough away to get the whole picture. I'm working on getting the pictures on my web site within the week.

Also. it appears that the mystery holes in our mystery bracket mounting our formerly mystery slave (Identified by HI^C as a chevy) are the right distance appart to mount a stock toyota slave. Can it be that easy?

-C
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom