Looking at an 07 LX, high miles—any tips other than the obvious

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npm

npm

Joined
Nov 12, 2025
Threads
1
Messages
10
Location
WA state
Hey guys, new to LC/LX but not Toyota. Had several midsize pickups over the years but growing family means need a bigger rig. It's either this or a Tundra.

I'm looking at an 07 LX tomorrow for the second time and going to have it inspected. It had like 6 owners and 235k miles so its within my budget which is not a lot ($20k ish). I can also share the Carfax.

Guy says the TRD rims are worth 2-3k which sounds like he's blowing smoke up my a**....
3rd row seats are missing.

Going to check on:

air suspension
coolant valley leak
cam tower leaks
radiator?

Undercarriage looks pretty good to me. I've attached pictures as well. Anything egregious jump out?

Thanks in advance for any help or advice!

580479049_1344062180545225_2250104373230015716_n.webp


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lx1.webp


lx2.webp


lx4.webp
 
rexington14 said:
Must be an 08+. 07 would be a 100 series.

Could be good, could be a nightmare. Get the PPI. At that age/mileage the purchase price is just the beginning.
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I'm only buying assuming the inspection clears everything. What do you mean by that last statement, just that I'll need to put additional $ in it immediately?
 
Undercarriage looks ok but not spotless, probably average for an 08.
Those rims (Known as Rock Warriors since they came on the Tundra Rock Warrior package) are desirable, but decent sets of 4 can be had in that condition for ~$1500 or less if you search around. They're great rims and getting rarer by the day, so I would count them as a positive, but don't add $2-3k to the purchase price to get them.
LXs go for less than LCs, I'd call this a $16-18k truck with that age and mileage if there's nothing major wrong. $20k is a bit steep IMO.
 
TimCFJ40 said:
Undercarriage looks ok but not spotless, probably average for an 08.
Those rims (Known as Rock Warriors since they came on the Tundra Rock Warrior package) are desirable, but decent sets of 4 can be had in that condition for ~$1500 or less if you search around. They're great rims and getting rarer by the day, so I would count them as a positive, but don't add $2-3k to the purchase price to get them.
LXs go for less than LCs, I'd call this a $16-18k truck with that age and mileage if there's nothing major wrong. $20k is a bit steep IMO.
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Awesome, this is super helpful, thank you. If everything clears the inspection I would likely make an offer in that range.
 
npm said:
Awesome, this is super helpful, thank you. If everything clears the inspection I would likely make an offer in that range.
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$19-20k should get you a sub 200k mile LX in this vintage. Don't jump if they won't budge. I've seen a lot of these come up lately (was looking intently until I bought a 2016 LC a few months ago)
 
I own a 2008 LX570 that just turned 190k miles today.

My thoughts:

  • If it doesn't have record of the coolant valley leak being repaired, plan on that happening to you ($150 in parts if your DIY, $2500+ for dealership to do it)
  • Rust on undercarriage is okay; not bad, not perfect
  • Rock warriors are a value add. If you like them, great, if not, sell them for $1500 and buy a set of LC/LX/Tundra take-offs for $500
  • Check to see if it has the new radiator installed, add $1200+ in parts/labor if it doesn't
  • Rear seats are no big deal, unless you absolutely need them. (I took mine out)
  • AHC system is hydraulic
  • Check for wetness on the driver's side boot of front wheel well. That will tell you if the steering rack is leaking (Common for that age/miles)

I would be in the mid-high teens on price for that one.
 
mceagle555 said:
I own a 2008 LX570 that just turned 190k miles today.

My thoughts:

  • If it doesn't have record of the coolant valley leak being repaired, plan on that happening to you ($150 in parts if your DIY, $2500+ for dealership to do it)
  • Rust on undercarriage is okay; not bad, not perfect
  • Rock warriors are a value add. If you like them, great, if not, sell them for $1500 and buy a set of LC/LX/Tundra take-offs for $500
  • Check to see if it has the new radiator installed, add $1200+ in parts/labor if it doesn't
  • Rear seats are no big deal, unless you absolutely need them. (I took mine out)
  • AHC system is hydraulic
  • Check for wetness on the driver's side boot of front wheel well. That will tell you if the steering rack is leaking (Common for that age/miles)

I would be in the mid-high teens on price for that one.
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Killer, thats good stuff. What's the difficulty level on the coolant valley leak repair?

Also, is the steering rack leak the same issue as the cam tower leak? Thanks
 
npm said:
Killer, thats good stuff. What's the difficulty level on the coolant valley leak repair?

Also, is the steering rack leak the same issue as the cam tower leak? Thanks
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About 8 hours of DIY time. Search "Mystery coolant leak" on this forum for a long thread.

Steering rack leak is different than cam tower leak.
 
I would personally probably avoid that vehicle since it has had so many owners. But the advice given above is spot on.

Definitely not a good deal at that price.
 
npm said:
Awesome, this is super helpful, thank you. If everything clears the inspection I would likely make an offer in that range.
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Since you mentioned your budget is not a lot, negotiate the price like a crazy person. A 17 year old LX with almost a quarter million miles and incomplete care history from 6 owners is going to need at least a few things, in addition to comprehensive preventative maintenance work. LX parts and service are not cheap, likely more than for mid sized Toyotas.
 
For context, while it already sold, this is what you can get with a better service history and equal condition of "light rust."

M

SOLD Thread 'Oxford, MS - 2008 LX570 - 225k miles - $13k'

$16,000
Selling my 2008 LX570 with 225,000 miles on it. I think I've owned it around a year, I have to look. Selling it because I don't drive it anymore - small driveway and it's blocked in by my F150, so it's a PITA to take it out. I have to get better pics, but attaching what I have. I'll get some undercarriage pics - truck is rust free (CA, WA, TN and MS ownership). VIN for Lexus site: JTJHY00W784003012 - I run top tier, 93 octane fuel and 5W30 synthetic. 275/60/20 Falken Wildpeak AT3's (my guess would be 60-70% treadlife).

The bad:
Looks like it has a t-case leak and is...
 
Thanks for the replies. If the inspection comes back all clear I’ll probably try and get it down to 14 or 15k.
 
Sandroad said:
Since you mentioned your budget is not a lot, negotiate the price like a crazy person. A 17 year old LX with almost a quarter million miles and incomplete care history from 6 owners is going to need at least a few things, in addition to comprehensive preventative maintenance work. LX parts and service are not cheap, likely more than for mid sized Toyotas.
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What kind of comprehensive preventative maintenance work are we talking?
 
npm said:
What kind of comprehensive preventative maintenance work are we talking?
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I depends on the service history. High mileage PM on older vehicles can include things like fluids, oils, belts, hoses, filters, lubrication, spark plugs, wiper blades, rust treatment, battery terminal cleaning, inside/outside protection, sunroof drains, leak checks, and so on. There are lots of threads on PM for various vehicle history and condition that would be a good read if you buy a 235K mile 6 owner ‘08.
 
rexington14 said:
Yeah no way it clears everything. If it does you need a new mechanic.



Yes. Have you ever bought a used car before that's 15-20 years old with 235k+ on it?
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I just meant clears the big stuff. Of course I have. My current vehicle is 26 years old with 240,000 miles on it and I’ve owned it for 15 years.
 
npm said:
What kind of comprehensive preventative maintenance work are we talking?
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At a minimum I'd do:
Change ALL Fluids. Engine Oil, Coolant, Transmission, Transfer Case, Diffs, flush AHC and Brakes.
Serpentine belt and idler pulleys
Thorough inspection of wear parts replace as needed: Brakes, Ball Joints, Tie Rod Ends, etc
Heater Ts

Then I'd do the other stuff as needed, but know that these things do become more likely at that mileage, but aren't guaranteed
Radiator
Starter
Steering Rack
Wheel Bearings
Valley Plate
Cam Tower Leak

I'd count on the minimum list taking you a day and $400 worth of parts and fluids if none of the wear parts needs replacement as a DIY. The stuff on the as needed list are much more expensive, but not likely to all be needed at once, and you might get lucky and not need some at all during your ownership. ,

We owned our 2008 cruiser for 8 years and from 200k-295k miles.
In that time we did:
All the Baseline Stuff
Radiator replaced with OEM by PO at 180k due to deer strike, still going at 295k
One Tie Rod End
Brakes Three times
Starter - Still kicking at 295k
Steering Rack - Leaking pretty good at 295k, sold at discount because of this
Wheel Bearings - Still ok at 295k
Valley Plate - Still ok at 295k
Cam Tower Leak - maybe slight or maybe a valve cover leak. Still down less than a quart in 5000 miles so we didn't mess with it

You can easily get $10k+ in baselining a 200k+ 200 series, especially if you get carried away with the "while you're in there" stuff. Be smart about it, do the maintenance, and replace the other stuff as needed. Keep an eye on fluid levels and watch for new leaks/noises and you should be able to keep her (or any other higher mileage 200 series) on the road for a good long while to come.
 
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