Local Source for Starter/Alt parts

[Tools R Us]

Yesterday Rob needed a plunger/contact set for his starter. Got the contacts with little issue, but the plunger was a problem, no stock at dealers, BAP, etc. Remembered a customer from the tool truck days, All Start Electric, they had them in stock. Aftermarket, but nice unit, if anything the contact ring is thicker than the factory unit, worked great and the best part, $7.90. They also have the contacts, but didn't price them.

All Start Electric is an "old school hands on" type, starter/alt shop that does good work, so a good option for local parts and/or repairs. They stock parts for most brands.

All Start Electric
240 E Coury Ave
Mesa, AZ 85210
480-892-9331

 

[-Spike-]

Gracias, and did the starter rebuild fix the problem for Rob? He certainly fought the diagnosis enough.

-Spike

 

[Tools R Us]

Gracias, and did the starter rebuild fix the problem for Rob? He certainly fought the diagnosis enough.

-Spike

Works like a champ.

 

[BrotherRob]

Gracias, and did the starter rebuild fix the problem for Rob? He certainly fought the diagnosis enough.

-Spike

Hey, I was right. Contacts shouldn't wear out in 2 years. The plunger was bad.
Contacts would have gone at least another year. Like I told Kevin, for $8 they will all get changed every time in the future.

 

[splitshot]

Kevin, what would you do with a starter that is wraped with a header and fails prematurely do to the heat involved? I've had an issue with my F-250 for years and sound like my answer lies here.

 

[Tools R Us]

I would remove the headers, replace with stock manifold and route the pipe away from the starter. A reliable starter is more important to me than the .01% HP increase that leaky POS headers provide, but that's just my opinion!!

What is dieing on the starter, bearings, field, etc? In some applications there is a heat shield available that bolts or straps the the starter. They make pulling the starter more of a pain, but are effective at reducing the heat. Second option would be to make a sheet metal shield. Third, wrap the header pipes.

If the problem is bearing failure, greasing with a higher temp grease, like synthetic, silicone, etc can make a big difference in life. In some applications the older starter can be changed to the newer reduction gear type, they are smaller, allowing more room for shielding and are more resistant to heat damage.

 

[splitshot]

Seems to be a bearing problem, after a while the armature starts to drag. Also I think it has to do with whoever rebuilds them. The last one I bought (1 year ago) is going south. The previous one which I had rebuilt at a local shop lasted over 5 years. I use this truck excusively as a wood hauler and only put about 200 miles on it anually. I've got my last core and was wondering if it could be built in a way to get more life out of it.

What about aluminum bubble insulation, think it would melt?

Not ready to R&R the exhaust system yet

Thanks for the imput.