line lock problem....

[woody]

installed the line lock tonight....rear circuit only, B&M electric style....lighted toggle switch on the dash....

so, I flip the switch once, hit the brakes, toss 'er in FWD, and the rears drag as the fronts spin across the garage floor.....flip the switch again, and they unlock....back up...no problems....

take 2....same routine....but now the lines don't release pressure....if I didn't know better, fronts and rears are locked....

gonna let it sit for a bit, probably take for a short spin tomorrow nite (when it's not raining) but I'll assume my only possible problem is the lock is bad??

77 master cyl, 74 small booster, resid's removed, full fluid, rear circuit valve thingie is installed....stock 77 front discs, rear monte conversion, nothin fancy...

didn't bother to bleed the rears, could that be it?!?

 

[Gumby]

I couldn't see how air in the lines would make the lines lock up.

Crack a rear bleeder and see if it squirts.

 

[woody]

thus far, two sources tell me to bleed it clear of any air....guess that's tonites project...tho I don't see how that will cause issue, it's necessary anyways....

 

[Niner]

If the spring isn't strong enough to release the valve it may need the pressure of the fluid to help it, still not sure just tossing ideas out there.

 

[Gumby]

You would think that if it had enough pressure to lock the brakes, it would have enough pressure to push the valve back open.

I dunno.

 

[Niner]

My thinking was that the valve is powered closed and spring opened.

 

[Polak]

My thinking was that the valve is powered closed and spring opened.

Ditto.

The brakes should be bled anyway, but IMO the brake pedal should be pressed when unlocking to equalize the pressure on each side of the lock.

Course, I could be full of

AJ

 

[trailcarnage]

so, I flip the switch once, hit the brakes, toss 'er in FWD, and the rears drag as the fronts spin across the garage floor.....flip the switch again, and they unlock....back up...no problems....

didn't bother to bleed the rears, could that be it?!?

I'm not sure if it a typo but you need to press the brake pedal before engaging the solenoid. This builds the pressure and the solenoid simply maintains it. Also, do you have a porportioning valve in the system? I am not sure but it may complicate the system. Just moonshining here.

 

[Bret]

For my manual line locs if you press very hard on the pedal then lock it, it can be a pain to get them unlocked. I have to remash the brakes and pull on the knob to get them to release. If the solenoid worked the same way then like Niner and Polack mentioned it may need a little help. I have been tempted to switch to the electrics because plumbing into the cab was a pain. I'd be curious to hear what the solution turns out to be.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

Check wiring and the fuse. It is electonically activated and electonically released by the switch right?

 

[woody]

power lock, spring (no power) return

will be tweaking it today at some point....30 degrees this morning tho, supposed to snow...but gonna swing over to a buddies shop for a bit....

 

[FLYINGLOW]

power lock, spring (no power) return

will be tweaking it today at some point....30 degrees this morning tho, supposed to snow...but gonna swing over to a buddies shop for a bit....

Hmmm. Spring return, is that mechanically actuated? No more ideas from me, but its gonna be in the low 70s here today....... Apparently better weather for mowing the lawn than finishing my cage... thats what I've been told.

 

[cruiserdemon]

After reading the posts just thought I would throw in my 2 cents on a mechanical line lock I put a line lock on my front willwood calipers just for s***s and giggles, and I will agree that they can be a bitch to let off if you set it too hard ended up splitting the "composite" (alluminim) caliper material wide open. cost me $200 to replace Word of advice if you are running light weight racing calipers and a line lock just bleed the caliper, dont fight it