Lifting LC…have you considered?

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Madtiger

Mini-Doug
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This video (which i have posted in other threads) brings up interesting point…how Toyota engineers meticulously design the suspension and its geometry…and altering it via lift may not be good?



Go to 6:00 minute mark.

So i have two questions:

1. Bigger tires than stock tires (but stock suspension)…does that affect what that video discusses? Aka suspension geometry

2. For LX and AHC…for those who run AHC at a higher height (via sensor lift) all the time…maybe not a good thing?
 
This video (which i have posted in other threads) brings up interesting point…how Toyota engineers meticulously design the suspension and its geometry…and altering it via lift may not be good?



Go to 6:00 minute mark.

So i have two questions:

1. Bigger tires than stock tires (but stock suspension)…does that affect what that video discusses? Aka suspension geometry

2. For LX and AHC…for those who run AHC at a higher height (via sensor lift) all the time…maybe not a good thing?

1. Yes, that is why +50 offset Rock Warrior wheels are spec'ed for 33" BFG KO2 tires but the factory wheels which are +60 offset are spec'ed for 30.8" tires. As you go with taller tires you need lower offset to maintain the kingpin axis, though taller tires come with other trade-offs.

2. AHC sensor lift in high is similar to adding a suspension lift, it changes all sorts of characteristics. Some of them you can account for more easily (i.e. by getting your alignment reset), some you can partially adjust for, and some you can't easily fix.

As to #2, alignment is a key example. We tend to set our alignment when a vehicle is unloaded. But IFS suspension follows an arc, and so using the factory alignment specs when you're lifted might be OK for normal driving but might alternately leave you much further out of the spec'ed range when you're heavily loaded, under full flex, etc. i.e. Setting 3 degrees of caster when you have a 2" lift is putting your CVs into a different "starting" position than without the lift, which might mean under heavy compression you've pushed them outside their designed operating range. Or think of it this way, if your caster goes from 4 degrees to 0 degree while your suspension cycles from fully compressed (-4" lift) to fully extended (+4" lift), then normally if you were set at 2 degrees at the neutral (0" lift) position you'd always stay in that range; if you have a 2" lift in the above simplfied example your CVs are expecting to be at 1 degree but if you do that your handling is compromised so the shop sets to 2 degrees which fixes your handling but now your CVs operating between 5 degrees and 1 degree instead of 4 and 0, and now at the end of the range you're 1 degree over the designed operating range and might blow a CV.
 
1. Yes, that is why +50 offset Rock Warrior wheels are spec'ed for 33" BFG KO2 tires but the factory wheels which are +60 offset are spec'ed for 30.8" tires. As you go with taller tires you need lower offset to maintain the kingpin axis, though taller tires come with other trade-offs.

2. AHC sensor lift in high is similar to adding a suspension lift, it changes all sorts of characteristics. Some of them you can account for more easily (i.e. by getting your alignment reset), some you can partially adjust for, and some you can't easily fix.

As to #2, alignment is a key example. We tend to set our alignment when a vehicle is unloaded. But IFS suspension follows an arc, and so using the factory alignment specs when you're lifted might be OK for normal driving but might alternately leave you much further out of the spec'ed range when you're heavily loaded, under full flex, etc. i.e. Setting 3 degrees of caster when you have a 2" lift is putting your CVs into a different "starting" position than without the lift, which might mean under heavy compression you've pushed them outside their designed operating range. Or think of it this way, if your caster goes from 4 degrees to 0 degree while your suspension cycles from fully compressed (-4" lift) to fully extended (+4" lift), then normally if you were set at 2 degrees at the neutral (0" lift) position you'd always stay in that range; if you have a 2" lift in the above simplfied example your CVs are expecting to be at 1 degree but if you do that your handling is compromised so the shop sets to 2 degrees which fixes your handling but now your CVs operating between 5 degrees and 1 degree instead of 4 and 0, and now at the end of the range you're 1 degree over the designed operating range and might blow a CV.
Thank you! Answered me questions and more!
 
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