lifted: OME N72F shock + Fj80 spring, some pics

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But in your case, if you arent planning on wheeling it much. I would trade the coils in for something shorter.

It is cheaper and much less work...


after driving it about a week, i feel exactly the same way as you did. i'm gonna to order a pair of OME springs.

first, because the FJ springs are too long, both shocks were fully stretched, they don't absorb any shock. the ride quality is horrible, say it's bumpy is an understatement. luckily my daily commute to work is less then 3 miles round trip.

second, the rear is sitting way up high, the whole truck looks really like an extreme makeover gone bad.

third, i don't need that much of lift.

i'll keep you guys posted on the progress.
 
after FJ80 springs and OME shocks, note: the job was done by a local shop, not really know much about 4x4 sh!t. i feel really sorry about letting them did it.

I don't mean to offend you but you pointed out the key problem. When you read stuff online, it can seem to be the greatest thing since sliced bread and easy as making jellow. It really is not a good idea to jump into stuff without having a clue to what is going to be involved. Even over the counter mass produced items will need tweaking. I think you've already learned a lot from this thread, and spring setup. However, I'm disapointed you gave up so easy and just went to buy new springs. There is many rewards in knowing EXACTLY what is on your truck, how it works etc.

PS, don't forget to adjust your brake proportioning valve.
 
well, i decided to switch to OME springs just because i don't want to cause any possible damage to the viechle.

first, these springs are way too stiff and long for my taste, and there's not much i can do to change it. can change the characters of the steel, can't cut it. really harsh ride.
secondly, the picture i took at the bottom of the rear axle, you can clearly see the OME shocks are stretched all the way out, specially the passenger side. i can feel them absorb any shocks at all. i need to either change to longer shocks or shorter softer springs. changing springs would look wiser for me.

third, i'm affraid of running on an off-aligned frame would cause more problems to the tires, CV's, drive shaft, etc. correct the problems sooner is better than later.

i'm going to have the front BJ spacers and Aisin hub conversion in a week or two, of course at a 4x4 specialty shop this time, i want all my parts on hand before i send here away.


by the way, i'm starting to hear weird noise coming from the front right axle already. keep my fingers corssed.
 
well, i decided to switch to OME springs just because i don't want to cause any possible damage to the viechle.

Once you actually have all the correct parts needed, you won't cause any more damage over the OME springs. I have logged many thousands of miles on this setup. ONe trip alone was over 6,000 miles towing an M416 trailer CA to MN and back with a week wheeling in CO. If there is anything that causes problems to the vehicle it is lifting IFS but that is just how it goes. As long as you stay on top of it and know what to look for, it isn't that bad.

first, these springs are way too stiff and long for my taste, and there's not much i can do to change it. can change the characters of the steel, can't cut it. really harsh ride.
secondly, the picture i took at the bottom of the rear axle, you can clearly see the OME shocks are stretched all the way out, specially the passenger side. i can feel them absorb any shocks at all. i need to either change to longer shocks or shorter softer springs. changing springs would look wiser for me.

The wrong shocks here are the main problem. I said in your other thread that these shocks would be too short along with needing a panhard drop bracket. If you are getting the Heavy Duty OME springs, those are stiffer than the cruiser coils. The cruiser coils paired with the correct shocks give an amazing ride. I know this because I run adjustable shocks, when it is empty back there I soften the shock up and get a nice unjarring ride, load it up and crank the shocks up and it is perfect. If I forget to uncrank the shocks after the back has been emptied, I will get a jarring ride. Pull over uncrank them and back to a nice "soccer mom suv like" ride.

third, i'm affraid of running on an off-aligned frame would cause more problems to the tires, CV's, drive shaft, etc. correct the problems sooner is better than later.

Once the panhard drop bracket is installed there are no problems there. Especially to your CV's. If you are that worried about your cv's, I would not suggest BJ spacers. The more I read this, the more I am convinced that you should just stay stock in the front with some new shocks and get some stock/slight lift springs in the rear to go with your new shocks. Unfortunately lifting IFS and keeping it aligned can be tricky and if you don't stay on top of it and run it misaligned for very long it will eat tires.

i'm going to have the front BJ spacers and Aisin hub conversion in a week or two, of course at a 4x4 specialty shop this time, i want all my parts on hand before i send here away.

That is smart. I think you would have liked your coils better if you would have had all the correct parts and had the front done at the same time. I am telling you, paired with the bj spacers it gives a nice ride and stance. Cruiser coils alone, just looks rediculous, like some kind of Oildale hotrod.


by the way, i'm starting to hear weird noise coming from the front right axle already. keep my fingers corssed.

I gaurantee that it has absolutely nothing to do with lifting the rear. It is probably your spindle bushing. Wait till you have a worn out idler arm and are hitting bumps, that is an annoying noise! Especially on washboard roads in Death Valley. YOu should look into a downey idler arm brace also if you plan on going to 33's.

I really hope you enjoy your new setup. Make sure you get a printout of your alignment that you have to get done after the BJ spacers are installed. Some are having problems finding places to get them aligned. Some of the cheapo quickie places really don't know how to align a vehicle that is really far out of spec.
 
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I have a 90 4runner with a current 4" pro comp coil spring rear lift and pro comp 4" front I have the sag ass problem especially when offroad with a load (tire rub). So I think the FJ 80 coils and some different shocks could help me. I do alot of offroad touring looking for waves in Baja and eventually would like to haul a lifted military trailer. Can you give me the skinny on what to get to remedy my problems? and where to get em? I have read that the LC 4WD SE LC coils from 91 - 97 fj80's are a 9 wrap coil and will give- about 5.5" lift... This sounds great to me if I paired it with a good rear shock (adjustable). Let me know as much as ya can - I appreciate the help.
 
*Woot, everyone gathered up to chime in on all the good points to fix things, so since we've discussed shocks, bracket, lspv, let me add this in..

Build up and short lift on a 4Runner, aka, Project "Wimpy"

Since you're doing the "Short Lift" like mine, do the LSPV ASAP! FWIW: In the future, the coils you would want for just a smaller lift would be the FJCruiser coils. The info for that is in that link, including the sizing on the 2-2.5" lift bracket along with the link to the service specs on the lspv line pressures. Take it to a well qualified shop or friend to do this, or to a (gasp!) Toyota dealership with the printout of the brake pressure specs so you get the rear pressure right. I have seen so many rigs where someone supposedly set the pressure for the customer to find out it wasn't even around 800lbs minimum! Also, I did not need any bracketry for the panhard bar as with the short lift, things don't go really offset on the rear links.

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I'll watch the thread since I have the 2.5" lift and help you as much as I can.
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:D

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