LCA Ball Joint Boot Replacement Procedure?

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RTH - LCA Ball Joint Boot Replacement Procedure?

Have a tear in the boot on the Lower Control Arm (LCA) ball joint and have the replacement kit from Toyota. Trying to understand what it required to unload that corner and separate the ball joint to get to the boot.

Once on jack stands, the wheel off, do I need to ..

- Totally unload the torsion bar and disconnect the t-bar from the LCA? Or will the LCA be unloaded enough to separate the ball joint without totally disconnecting the front of the t-bar?

- Disconnect lower shock mount and the sway bar?

- Remove the brake rotor and dust shield so as to have space to get a puller on the ball joint? I have the OTC 6497 puller on order.


No reason to tear things apart more than necessary and the FSM doesn't really speak to just the reboot, that I can find. It does talk about pulling the whole LCA to do the bushings and the reboot, and says that requires removing the t-bar, disconnecting lower shock mount, and sway bar link. But does one need to do all that to gain access to just the ball joint boot?

Any info appreciated !

R.
 
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No need to mess with the t-bars.

When I did them a few months back, I basically followed the procedure for pulling a CV. Disconnect everything from the hub (brake caliper, lines, wheel sensor, etc. Pop the UCA ball joint, Pop the LCA ball joint, remove c-clip hold hub to CV, and slide the hub off and set to side.

Clean the Ball joint real good with brake cleaner. Squirt grease onto joint and work the grease in. Fill new boot and slide on. Be VERY careful to not stretch out the metal ring when installing onto boot. Reinstall everything....

Drink favorite beverage.....
 
Mxndrnks, thanks.

I edited my question a bit....

Curious as to why one needs to disconnect the UCA joint and remove the whole hub? To pull the whole LCA, the FSM doesn't mention that, but if it makes life a lot easier, then I can do that.

Much appreciated.
 
If I remember correctly, I read in another thread that others were able to do it without removing everything. I spent a long time trying. I just couldnt get the joint completely apart. The CV kept me from separating the lower ball joint. The LCA was hitting the CV and I couldnt for the life of me get it completely apart. So, I just went ahead and took it all the way down. It made life a lot easier for me. I spent longer trying to get apart with the hub on than I did just breaking it down.

The other tip I wanted to let you know about. Once the truck is on the jack stand. Use a bottle jack to raise the LCA off the Lower ball joint once you get it popped free.
 
I've got the spindle exposed (hub removed) and the brake dust shield off, t-bar unloaded, bottom shock mount disconnected, swaybar link disconnected. My puller has not arrived in mail yet. Can't get either the UCA or LCA ball joints to release in spite of smacking them with a hand sledge. How do folks do this without the puller? I never have had luck with just the hammer method. Where are people hitting the arms to get them to release? What's the trick here????

Thanks.
 
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you are doing a lot of extra steps just to reboot the LCA. No need to touch the Tbars, shocks, swaybars, dust shield, etc.

Jack up the truck
Put jack stand underneath to support/safety
remove wheel
Remove brake caliper and brake lines from hub and support
Disconnect the ABS sensor (either at wheel or further up)
Remove hub flange
Remove CV snap ring
Disconnect UCA
Support LCA with bottle jack
Disconnect LCA (Entire hub may fall off at this point so watch out)
Pull entire wheel hub off and set aside
Clean and Reboot LCA

On the UCA there is a big flat spot on the side. People hit that. On the LCA take the Castle nut turn upside down and thread back on to protect the threads and smack it....

I honestly have never done this with out a puller though. You could run down to your local auto parts (napa, Kragen, Etc.) and rent a puller or just buy one...

Good Luck and Happy Fathers Day if you are a dad...
 
Happy Father's Day ! (Mom and kids off on summer vacation)

Well, I'm doing brake work at the same time, so the hub was removed.

I've basically done all you mention except separate the UCA. Can't get the impact gun on it as the angle is just wrong enough to prevent it. Joint is spinning and a socket and breaker-bar are getting me no where. Thinking of putting the torch on the LCA ball joint taper since I'm replacing the boot anyway? Any reason that would be a bad idea?

What puller have you used on this? I'll drive to the auto parts store in a minute to see what they have as a loaner.

Thx
 

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