LC200 maintenance advice

[matf]

Hi!

Newbie alert.

I bought a 2008 LC200 5.7 with 110k miles a couple months ago here in Cost Rica. It has good service history, including belt change at 100k, suspension is modded to OME, It has an updated ‘Tesla’ screen which is less fun than it sounds, and a 2012(?) body kit with flash new lights etc. Apart from that I think it’s all original. It’s running great, question to y’all, any preventative maintenance items that would be good to address?

Thanks in advance

 

[SteveNC]

Start with considering points raised in the below discussion (or other "baseline" threads on ih8mud)....

Thread 'What is Baseline?'

May 11, 2015

Please forgive my inexperience, but what exactly is involved in "base lining" a vehicle? What's it mean? I see it mentioned a lot on this forum. Thanks!

• 94 TLC
• Replies: 15
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

...followed by appropriate or inappropriate rabbit holes from there

 

[matf]

Start with considering points raised in the below discussion (or other "baseline" threads on ih8mud)....

Thread 'What is Baseline?'

May 11, 2015

Please forgive my inexperience, but what exactly is involved in "base lining" a vehicle? What's it mean? I see it mentioned a lot on this forum. Thanks!

• 94 TLC
• Replies: 15
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

...followed by appropriate or inappropriate rabbit holes from there

Thanks for this. It has a full main dealer Toyota service history, last service Feb so all the fluids etc should be up to date. It’s more a question specific to its age and mileage, being 18 years old, roughly first year of production, with 110k on the clock. Google searches give mixed general advice such as replacing the water works, pump etc, perhaps the starter while you’re in there. I also have an FJ, similar age with fewer miles which went into the garage every other month for a couple years to replace one item it another, was hoping to avoid that with the LC.

 

[stonepa]

My experience with Land Cruisers since 1987, and my 200 since 2015, is water pumps, radiators, starters, etc should only be replaced when they finally go bad. If they ever do. If they start to, they will give you time to get them fixed. Otherwise you spend money to fix things that may never break, and will never leave you stranded.

Just my observations and opinion.

Enjoy your 200!

 

[gasman4u]

My experience with Land Cruisers since 1987, and my 200 since 2015, is water pumps, radiators, starters, etc should only be replaced when they finally go bad. If they ever do. If they start to, they will give you time to get them fixed. Otherwise you spend money to fix. Things that may never break, and will never leave you standed.

Just my observations and opinion.

Enjoy your 200!

I've only seen a couple posts on here (fwiw) regarding starters that gave anyone more than a single "slow" start before they go out. It's a BIG PIA to replace on the 5.7 too. My single contribution.

 

[stonepa]

I've only seen a couple posts on here (fwiw) regarding starters that gave anyone more than a single "slow" start before they go out. It's a BIG PIA to replace on the 5.7 too. My single contribution.

Yeah it’s pretty similar difficulty wise to the process for the 4.7. But i have always seen it be a hard start, but it always starts. Randomly replacing a part without a well known service life has always seemed wasteful to me. For instance, on my 100 I replace the timing belt every 100k, as well as the water pump. However, i don’t do the same thing with the timing chain / chain guides for the 5.7 because, unless they fail, they should last the service life of the engine.

Different than the parts on my 1956 DeHavilland Beaver, which have very defined service lives.

Again, just my way of working. No concern with whatever anyone wants to do. Ultimately, an owner needs to be comfortable and confident in their vehicle.

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

Yeah it’s pretty identical to the process for the 4.7. But i have always seen it be a hard start, but it always starts. Randomly replacing a part without a well known service life has always seemed wasteful to me. For instance, on my 100 I replace the timing belt every 100k, as well as the water pump. However, i don’t do the same thing with the timing chain / chain guides for the 5.7 because, unless they fail, they should last the service life of the engine.

The starter on the 5.7L is nowhere near an identical process as the 4.7L. It's below the engine on the 5.7L, it was under the intake on the 4.7L.

To the OP:

You should baseline the entire vehicle's fluids-

Drain and fill coolant x2 over 1500 miles.
Drain transmission fluid, drop pan, clean pan, magnets, replace gasket, put anti-seize on pan bolts, refill with trans fluid properly. Be aware that some pan bolts will break. This can be a PITA to fix but it's done everyday.
Flush brake fluid. Will need 3 quarts of fluid.
Flush Power steering fluid - there is a video or two on youtube on flushing a toyota. Maybe a Camry. 100% applies to the Tundra/Sequoia / 200.
Oil & filter change
All three differentials


Get all that done, probably need new spark plugs, PCV valve, check the brakes, wipers, etc

 

[matf]

The starter on the 5.7L is nowhere near an identical process as the 4.7L. It's below the engine on the 5.7L, it was under the intake on the 4.7L.

To the OP:

You should baseline the entire vehicle's fluids-

Drain and fill coolant x2 over 1500 miles.
Drain transmission fluid, drop pan, clean pan, magnets, replace gasket, put anti-seize on pan bolts, refill with trans fluid properly. Be aware that some pan bolts will break. This can be a PITA to fix but it's done everyday.
Flush brake fluid. Will need 3 quarts of fluid.
Flush Power steering fluid - there is a video or two on youtube on flushing a toyota. Maybe a Camry. 100% applies to the Tundra/Sequoia / 200.
Oil & filter change
All three differentials


Get all that done, probably need new spark plugs, PCV valve, check the brakes, wipers, etc

I've only seen a couple posts on here (fwiw) regarding starters that gave anyone more than a single "slow" start before they go out. It's a BIG PIA to replace on the 5.7 too. My single contribution.

I've only seen a couple posts on here (fwiw) regarding starters that gave anyone more than a single "slow" start before they go out. It's a BIG PIA to replace on the 5.7 too. My single contribution.

hi! Can you clarify please, do you mean they tend to let you know in advance they’re about to fail, or the opposite? Also any sense of how many miles, or likelihood, though assume the metric is more how many times they fire up an engine.

 

[TeCKis300]

Starter. Definitely starter if you suspect it's original. There may be zero warning shots across the bow before it checks out, with many known to fail around 130k miles. It's not one to leave to chance unless you want a bad day.

Around town, even a Range Rover will do. But many of us use these as adventure vehicles where we count of them to get home. Ignoring preventative maintenance is not how I would play the game. Or at least be selective as the starter is one of those that can bite and ruin a trip (as documented by several on these boards).

Radiator is another thing to pay attention to if original, but that one's super easy to inspect for the stress crack on top.

 

[manofthewoods]

Starter. Definitely starter if you suspect it's original. There may be zero warning shots across the bow before it checks out, with many known to fail around 130k miles. It's not one to leave to chance unless you want a bad day.

Around town, even a Range Rover will do. But many of us use these as adventure vehicles where we count of them to get home. Ignoring preventative maintenance is not how I would play the game. Or at least be selective as the starter is one of those that can bite and ruin a trip (as documented by several on these boards).

Radiator is another thing to pay attention to if original, but that one's super easy to inspect for the stress crack on top.

Good points above, re: intended use, or use case.
Currently I use my 80 (LX450) for various easy stuff, but rely on it for fall bird hunting with my 2 varmint hound dogs in the middle of nowhere Montana; when the temperature could be below zero. I need to feel confident in the vehicle. I'm willing and able to replace parts that I feel might be borderline - because replacing them in my garage is way better than getting towed 100 miles to a questionable "garage."
I could care less "if/maybe" I could squeeze out a few more miles to milk the last bit of service life out of a part.

Not criticizing others; just adding my logic

 

[gasman4u]

@matf I THINK (others here who've experienced this please correct me if I'm wrong) the starter life overall has to do with starting cycles vs age/mileage. Example, a city driven 200 with 50k miles may have more starting cycles vs a 150k mile example primarily driven long distances. Again, going off memory vs directly citing the thread on here somewhere it seems as though the starter will give you one "slow" start before it ultimately stops working.

I totally understand the Waddington effect @stonepa is indirectly referencing. With that said and confirmation bias being what it is, I'd be kicking myself if I had a new starter sitting at home when I'm freezing my b@lls off somewhere because I'm waiting on a tow rig to get me out of whatever situation I got myself into given the volume of experiences here indicating the starter indeed has some sort of an expected service life. What's frustrating to me is that it seems like there's no way to tell how many approximate cycles the thing should be good for vs when you should consider swapping it out. HTH

EDIT: I had to look up the DeHavilland Beaver and it looks really cool! I've only been on otters before and thought they were unique to experience. It's cool to be able to go get the skids wet/dry and repeat that whenever you want.

 

[slipkid13]

Hi!

Newbie alert.

I bought a 2008 LC200 5.7 with 110k miles a couple months ago here in Cost Rica. It has good service history, including belt change at 100k, suspension is modded to OME, It has an updated ‘Tesla’ screen which is less fun than it sounds, and a 2012(?) body kit with flash new lights etc. Apart from that I think it’s all original. It’s running great, question to y’all, any preventative maintenance items that would be good to address?

Thanks in advance

Def change the coolant. Preventing it from going acidic and eating the head gasket is big one. If ithe head gasket goes then none of the other maint. will matter. While getting the coolant changed swap the radiator if it is original, 110K is right about when they let go (mine went out at 105)
You are also due for spark plugs at 120K. Everyone says starter/alternator for perv. maint. I am on the fence with replacing good parts. The radiator is a know defect that wasn't corrected until 2014 or 2105? The starters and alternators? I don't know. They are big jobs, lots of labor so I would rather wait until there is an issue, but that is me.

 

[stonepa]

Def change the coolant. Preventing it from going acidic and eating the head gasket is big one. If ithe head gasket goes then none of the other maint. will matter. While getting the coolant changed swap the radiator if it is original, 110K is right about when they let go (mine went out at 105)
You are also due for spark plugs at 120K. Everyone says starter/alternator for perv. maint. I am on the fence with replacing good parts. The radiator is a know defect that wasn't corrected until 2014 or 2105? The starters and alternators? I don't know. They are big jobs, lots of labor so I would rather wait until there is an issue, but that is me.

I agree with everything but the radiator. According to the forums, lots of people have issues. People with problems are the people that go on forums to vent. Strangely, my high mileage 2015 is on its original radiator, as are all of my friends with older 200's. So may not be as common as one would think from the forums.

 

[slipkid13]

True, guess my bias was it happenned to me...

 

[stonepa]

True, guess my bias was it happenned to me...

Yeah, ive been there myself in other areas. I have a funny feeling we’ll see the same thing around the ‘many’ failing 5.7 head gaskets.

 

[bloc]

Updated radiator was late 2018. Climate and use case are likely factors in radiator failure, but it is very, very common. I’d just assume it needs to be done on anything <2019 until proven otherwise.

200-series alternators not worked very hard (consistent huge electrical loads) or dipped into muddy water generally last a very long time. I put new brushes into mine around 200k miles and the bearings felt as good as new. Yes we do hear about failures but they usually fall into the two categories I mentioned above.

 

[GrouchyTech]

Updated radiator was late 2018. Climate and use case are likely factors in radiator failure, but it is very, very common. I’d just assume it needs to be done on anything <2019 until proven otherwise.

200-series alternators not worked very hard (consistent huge electrical loads) or dipped into muddy water generally last a very long time. I put new brushes into mine around 200k miles and the bearings felt as good as new. Yes we do hear about failures but they usually fall into the two categories I mentioned above.

Do you have a part # or source for the brushes?

 

[gasman4u]

Is there a recommended service life interval for the following?

1- water pump
2- timing chain replacement (including tensioners, cams, guides, etc)

 

[GrouchyTech]

Is there a recommended service life interval for the following?

1- water pump
2- timing chain replacement (including tensioners, cams, guides, etc)

1. When it fails. Some will disagree with this.
2. Probably never, but you could go ahead and do the tensioners, guides, and chain if you already have the timing cover off for any reason. I wouldn’t worry about replacing the cam itself or cam gears.

 

[bloc]

Do you have a part # or source for the brushes?

27370-0S010

I know you can handle the job but more info here for others:

Thread 'Alternator brushes as PM'

Apr 29, 2024

Seems like there have been a rash of alternator replacements lately and as I approach and pass 200k I've had that on my mind. When I got my 80-series it had 270k on either the original or a Genuine Toyota alternator, and I noticed in the parts diagrams we can buy a brush kit for that unit. I ordered one, and on that platform it's quite easy to remove the alternator for a little upkeep. When I did this I noticed the bearings seemed perfect, and even the wear on the slip rings was minimal. I tossed that brush holder in with good results until I did the LS swap.

So this got me thinking...

• bloc
• Replies: 36
• Forum: 200-Series Cruisers

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