Lawnmower help

[puulboy]

Last year I sucked a small towel into the blades, the mower stopped cold and would not start. I thought I broke the crank or something evil like that
I did some research and discovered it could just be the key, that keeps the flywheel lined up, on the crank.
Took the cover and guard off and I see a red mark on the crank, that doesn't match where the key is. I am assuming I sheared it
Now I need to pull the flywheel. Does anyone have the correct way to pull the flywheel ?
16 hp Kohler Motor in a craftsman rider.
thanks
Don

 

[D'Animal]

Post a picture of the flywheel.

Many Kohlers use a tool similar to a flywheel puller. Some have bolt holes across from each other and others have three holes.

 

[puulboy]

If I'm reading this correctly, there is a red mark on the shaft of the crank that does not line up with the keyway . Is that the indication my key is sheared? Then of course the flywheel removal is why you wanted the pics. thanks for your help in advance . I had placed the bolts back in from the cover . so they don't get lost. There are also 2 other holes I believe
Don

 

[D'Animal]

You can see the puller holes at the 2 O'clock and 8 O'Clock positions.

Ignor the red mark on the crankshaft. It may be from the manufacturing process or a inspection test. I have never seen a manufacture use a Sharpie to mark a flywheel key.

It is a riding mower so you will want to check all of your safety switches.
Blade Engagement
Nuetral
Clutch/Brake pedal
Seat Switch
etc

The odds of the blades hitting something and the force traveling throught the belts to the spindle on the bottom fo the crankshaft and shearing the flywheel key is pretty slim. I'm sure it has been done.

 

[-Spike-]

So you just thread bolts into the holes, which pushes the flywheel off? Like brake drums?

 

[puulboy]

I got a balancer puller from batozone and pulled the flywheel. The key was fine so I re installed it . If one, or any of those switches were not functioning, I would not get spark to the spark plug. Correct? I am getting spark and fuel to the carb. I do get a sense that the motor is a little more free spinning than it was when it worked. It almost seems to be internal, but I guess if I had a manual, I could see if there were any other safety switches that would affect the operation, even when the cylinder is getting spark. I did pull the OHV cover to see if a vavle dropped out. It seems to be all intact, I can see both valve stems inside the valve springs . By the way the pullies are turning under the deck when I crank the motor I guess I could pull the head and see if the piston is ok.
Suggestions?

You can see the puller holes at the 2 O'clock and 8 O'Clock positions.

Ignor the red mark on the crankshaft. It may be from the manufacturing process or a inspection test. I have never seen a manufacture use a Sharpie to mark a flywheel key.

It is a riding mower so you will want to check all of your safety switches.
Blade Engagement
Nuetral
Clutch/Brake pedal
Seat Switch
etc

The odds of the blades hitting something and the force traveling throught the belts to the spindle on the bottom fo the crankshaft and shearing the flywheel key is pretty slim. I'm sure it has been done.

 

[D'Animal]

Does the mower have an electric clutch to engage the blades?

The pully and belt on the deck should not be turning when cranking the engine. If it is, take the deck belt off the bottom of the spindle under the motor. See if the motor will start.

 

[puulboy]

I think its something on the top end The pulley turns but the belt does not Its just the shaft turning the blades are not engaged
I changed the fuel filter poured fresh gas in and put a shot in the carb and got a backfire. Then it still didn't start. Somethin does not sound right thats for sure
Then I tried it again and it backfired again no start, almost acted like a distributor turned 180 degrees Just trying to give yu a reverence point.
I think a valve may be the problem? If I remove the head I may be able to see whats up with the valve. Do I have to tear down the rockers and pull the push rods to pull the head, or will I be able to unbolt the head and take it out as a unit ? It is a OHV
thanks

 

[D'Animal]

Are the pushrods tight? Do they get loose when you turn the engine over by hand? You may have blown a valve seat but I am just guessing.

 

[79coyotefrg]

I think its something on the top end The pulley turns but the belt does not Its just the shaft turning the blades are not engaged
I changed the fuel filter poured fresh gas in and put a shot in the carb and got a backfire. Then it still didn't start. Somethin does not sound right thats for sure
Then I tried it again and it backfired again no start, almost acted like a distributor turned 180 degrees Just trying to give yu a reverence point.
I think a valve may be the problem? If I remove the head I may be able to see whats up with the valve. Do I have to tear down the rockers and pull the push rods to pull the head, or will I be able to unbolt the head and take it out as a unit ? It is a OHV
thanks

get the model number off the rear of the mower, usually under the seat and enter it here--> http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

it will give you blow up images of everything.