Kzj-78 Prado Stereo

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Joined
Jun 23, 2010
Threads
10
Messages
19
Location
Nelson, New Zealand
Hi All,

I am wanting to upgrade the front speakers in my 1993 Kzj78 Prado. What has everyone else with one of these wagons done as there isnt much room to play with to install some aftermarket speakers in the front. I would also be keen to know what everyone has done in the back without taking up any valuable boot space as that is needed for camping gear.
Cheers
 
I ended up making some packers for the front and mounting them on the doors. You can buy new ones. Bit of a mission but there is a hole in the metal work behind the door card. I also relocated the plastic pocket rearward a bit which allowed for the speakers. 6 inch round from memory.

For the rear you can put them in the rear area side panels. But I also made a roof mounted panel which ran along on an angle along the uppermost area above the rear barn doors. and managed to get in some 6x9's... I will try and find some photo's or take some in the next few days.

From memory you are in NZ too.... I might have that rear panel still as I dont need it anymore. If I find it you are welcome to it... Just need to cover postage.
 
I'd be interested in ideas for rear speakers too. There are some in my back doors which are usually well blocked off if we're loaded for camping, I'd also like to put a fold out table off the back door & put some speakers elsewhere.

In the front you might be surprised by the improvement you'll get just replacing the old 4" jobs under the dash with some new ones of a decent brand.

Cheers
Clint
 
Thanks Calvin. I can understand why you wouldn't be needing the panel anymore with your wagon now bobbed. I would be keen on taking it off your hands if you are sure that you no longer need it.

Do you know of any decent suppliers for adjustable Pan-hards in NZ for a KZJ-78. I have put an EFS 3" lift on mine but need to do the pan-hards.

Cheers,
Michael
 
I've got a 6" 2-way in each door. Had to use spacers to clear the magnets but it works well. Currently the spacers are wood frames, but I'll be making new sexy door cards once I get to the states and have all my wood working tools. Pictures for reference.

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Mines a 77, but there isn't much difference with the 78 structurally. I did have to cange the location of the power lock relay on my drivers front door. I'll try to find a picture.
 
This is my rear storage/speaker solution. It will also be a sleeping platform that have a part folding over the rear seats. May not be what you're looking for, but it works for me.

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Mine can be removed if you want to change the interior configuration. They simply un-clip from the side panel if necessary.
 
Ok here goes. Front speakers for KZJ78 LWB.
Then a few of the rear speakers. These are taken with the mount in my bobbed Prado. But you will get the idea.
Its attached via the top rear seat belt points and also I had some brakets off the lip on the top of the door opening frame.
Wires ran up the inside of the rear pillars.
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Digging through the search function and couldn't find what I was looking for so I'm going to bring this thread back to life...

I have a 95 KZJ78, looking to replace the rear speakers with aftermarket ones. Mine run along the side panels of the cargo door. Just wanted to see if you all knew the size so I can order aftermarket ones before I tear everything apart back there?
 
Digging through the search function and couldn't find what I was looking for so I'm going to bring this thread back to life...

I have a 95 KZJ78, looking to replace the rear speakers with aftermarket ones. Mine run along the side panels of the cargo door. Just wanted to see if you all knew the size so I can order aftermarket ones before I tear everything apart back there?
Did you happen to get an answer from someone? Also curious.
 
Pulling out '94 KZJ78 rears this week, will share back once I find suitable replacement... maybe helpful for someone else in the next 3-10 years!
 
J78 front and rear speakers pulled. The rears had been replaced and "mounted" to the stock bracket - I'll end up making a new one out of plywood - hopefully this will keep the vibration down. No surprise - 6" with a little less than 3" depth. The fronts came out through the glove box (passenger) and by taking out the air ducts / steering column cover (with a lot of patience). They run 3.5" with less that 2" depth.

Replacing as follows - will follow up if successful:

Rear: JBL Club 64FSL - 6.5", got these as they are shallow mount; less than 2"
Front: JBL Club 34F - 3.5", again less than 2" mounting depth, so I'm hopeful with a little effort can get them mounted back into same position (likely going to have to adjust each bracket)

Throwing in a JBL bass pro nano to round out the sound, new back up camera and a head unit that isn't in Japanese. :)

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All finished up. That speaker combo works great, but like all things takes a bit of customization.

Head unit fits perfectly after removing extra moulding. With glove box out everything has plenty of room, especially since much shallower since digital only (no disc). Wiring harness from Crutchfield for '94 Toyota was plug and play. Did have to find e-brake sensor, but runs into ECU as a red with green stripe wire. Just tapped into it.

Front speakers needed an offset ring as they basically rest on the metal dash, also needed a small extension for lower bracket to reach the post. Both really easy. Drivers side was tricky and had to remove all the steering column covers and air vents (lower and upper) to get the old speaker out and new one in - doable without removing entire dash given slightly smaller size of JBL replacement.

Rear speakers needed a custom mounting ring, just used old one as a template and cut out of 1/2" plywood to help with variation reduction.

Mounted sub under the passenger seat, signal cables all run under the center console and also grounded to where rear heater vent would be. Power ran directly down and under car with shielding instead of going through firewall - made it a lot easier, just had to make sure all sealed up, grommet and a bit of asphalt roofing caulk to seal and protect screws. Sub remote control mounted discreetly under dash (under ash tray).

Sounds about 100x better than before and in English! Android wireless brings this truck into 21st century.

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Looks great.

Side note for others searching Prado stereos in general... I recently tackled a KZJ78 that came from the factory as what I gather was a fairly rare "premium sound" option. Rather than the standard dual plug stereo connectors, this one had a unique 14-pin connector making the standard Toyota Metra harness useless. It took me quite a bit of digging around the internet, but I finally figured out how it's wired and was able to do a head unit replacement. When I get a chance I'll write it up under a different thread to keep this one streamlined. The other threads I found here mentioning the 14-pin variant failed to find a harness solution other than abandoning the 14-pin connector and rewiring everything. I figured out that's not necessary.

More later as soon as I have time to document what I did... but if you're having difficulty because you also have this 14-pin plug and can't find the right info, search for the thread I should be writing here in the coming days. Or PM me directly if I haven't posted it yet.
 
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All finished up. That speaker combo works great, but like all things takes a bit of customization.

Head unit fits perfectly after removing extra moulding. With glove box out everything has plenty of room, especially since much shallower since digital only (no disc). Wiring harness from Crutchfield for '94 Toyota was plug and play. Did have to find e-brake sensor, but runs into ECU as a red with green stripe wire. Just tapped into it.

Front speakers needed an offset ring as they basically rest on the metal dash, also needed a small extension for lower bracket to reach the post. Both really easy. Drivers side was tricky and had to remove all the steering column covers and air vents (lower and upper) to get the old speaker out and new one in - doable without removing entire dash given slightly smaller size of JBL replacement.

Rear speakers needed a custom mounting ring, just used old one as a template and cut out of 1/2" plywood to help with variation reduction.

Mounted sub under the passenger seat, signal cables all run under the center console and also grounded to where rear heater vent would be. Power ran directly down and under car with shielding instead of going through firewall - made it a lot easier, just had to make sure all sealed up, grommet and a bit of asphalt roofing caulk to seal and protect screws. Sub remote control mounted discreetly under dash (under ash tray).

Sounds about 100x better than before and in English! Android wireless brings this truck into 21st century.

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I was looking at that same head unit to put in our Prado. What molding did you have to remove, and was removing the glovebox necessary? Is this the adapter you used? Metra 70-1761
 
To follow up from my question above. That adapter worked perfectly, and the newer version of the head unit listed fit my opening without having to do any trimming and I was able to reuse the stock mounts.
 
To follow up from my question above. That adapter worked perfectly, and the newer version of the head unit listed fit my opening without having to do any trimming and I was able to reuse the stock mounts.
Metra 70-1761 Wire Harness, exactly. Sorry didn't get back to you sooner and glad it all worked out!
 
Looks great.

Side note for others searching Prado stereos in general... I recently tackled a KZJ78 that came from the factory as what I gather was a fairly rare "premium sound" option. Rather than the standard dual plug stereo connectors, this one had a unique 14-pin connector making the standard Toyota Metra harness useless. It took me quite a bit of digging around the internet, but I finally figured out how it's wired and was able to do a head unit replacement. When I get a chance I'll write it up under a different thread to keep this one streamlined. The other threads I found here mentioning the 14-pin variant failed to find a harness solution other than abandoning the 14-pin connector and rewiring everything. I figured out that's not necessary
More later as soon as I have time to document what I did... but if you're having difficulty because you also have this 14-pin plug and can't find the right info, search for the thread I should be writing here in the coming days. Or PM me directly if I haven't posted it yet.
what is the gauge in your cigarette lighter outlet in last pic??
 
Wiring harness from Crutchfield for '94 Toyota was plug and play. Did have to find e-brake sensor, but runs into ECU as a red with green stripe wire. Just tapped into it.
There's an alternative (not for you since you're already done, but for anyone following...).

Depending on the head unit brand, you can avoid tapping an e-brake wire by either grounding the HU e-brake lead or include a parking brake override / parking brake bypass module into your wiring harness. They look something like this and cost around $10-15 on amazon. You'd need to research what your HU brand needs. My understanding is some HU brands just want to see the parking brake is engaged and some want you to engage, release, and re-engage the parking brake. For the simpler brands, you can just ground the HU's e-brake lead to trick the HU into thinking the parking brake is always engaged, and for the more complicated brands you need the adaptor which pulses the signal. I know Alpine needs the parking brake bypass adaptor... I think Pioneer does as well. Boss does not. The adaptors are pretty easy to use and you can just include them in your wiring harness. It simplifies the rats nest behind the dash and eliminates having to locate and tap wires you're not interested in tapping.

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