Krylon or Rustolium

[D'Animal]

I'm sanding and priming my rig as I get areas of it done. There is just enough moisture in the air that a light film of surface rust appears after a week even with it in the shop.


I would like to have a professional paint job done on it but I don't see the funds being spent on that for quite awhile.

So will it matter what primer to use at this point?


I have seen what LandCruiserJunky (Gene's FJ35LV/Project Phoenix) can do with a rattle can. I'm impressed.

 

[txjake]

1. Just remember primer is porous, and won't stop rust by itself.

2. You should use a primer compatible with the paint you plan on using later.

3. An option is priming and painting with a rattlecan, if you are careful you can get a good job. Or, you can roll or foam brush on highly thinned Rustoleum or implement paint. There are several threads about that here and all over the internet. I did a J&*p with a roller in OD green and it came out nicely.

 

[D'Animal]

2. You should use a primer compatible with the paint you plan on using later.

That is what I'm concerned with.

I don't want to to get to the paint stage and have someone say "you should have used __________ for primer instead of ________.


If I won the lottery, I would just take it apart and have it all powder coated. Rock Rash is so hard to take care of on a powdercoated rig.

 

[txjake]

You could always prime it with anything and sand it all off later on. If you leave primer exposed to the elements for a long time, it will most likely have to be sanded and redone anyhow.

 

[FR3533]

i have had good luck ace rust stop primer, i like the kyrlon the have a new line of satin paints (walmart) that sprays on great has a good tip sprays evenly, i currently painting mine a satin pebble, it kinda looks like dune beige, ill try and post some pics


ryan

 

[nuclearlemon]

as mentioned, primer is porous, so i wouldn't leave it primered for any length of time as you will have the sheetmetal rusting underneath the primer. put a light coat of rattle can if you have to..you can sand it off later.

that said, i prefer krylon, it dries faster than rustoleum.

 

[toy4xfun]

hey i am not sure about this but krylon makes a primer called rust tough and it seems to do well not rusting they also sell non pourus primers if you have a compressor and spray gun you would have to check out your local body shop supply but i used krylons on a 69 charger that i was trying to restore and it worked quite well considering that the guy who did my slab in my garage did not put a moisture barrier

 

[Bogo]

I'm using Rustoleum rattle can, but then I can get it locally. I sand an area then clean, prime and paint it relatively quickly. I'm doing two coats of primer to get good coverage. Second coat is sprayed on about 20 minutes after the first and the can motion is perpendicular to the first coat. 20 minutes later I start the first of two top coats. If the metal had any rust on it I'm using the rusty metal primer, otherwise I use the auto primer.

Color wise I'm doing the ultra mat sand camo.

 

[miker]

I'm at this point with my project. I've decided to use the PPG "Shop Line" of products. These are cheaper than the PPG upper end brand but still a good quality. I'm sure that Dupont and other major paint manufacturers have similar lower cost lines of paint systems. I also just saw that SummitRacing now carries there own line of paints and the prices look very attractive. They are even on sale at the moment. I just looked at them online the other day and would have likely gone with them if I haden't already started with the Shop Line.

If you use an epoxy sealer over bare metal it will seal the metal from moisture and rusting. If you have flash rust now, you can chemical treat and then apply epoxy sealer or you could scuff, apply an etch primer, then epoxy sealer. Once you have the sealer down, there are no worries about moisture.

The issue will be when you need to finish the job. You will need to clean and scuff the epoxy at a minimum and some recommend to reapply a coat of the epoxy sealer prior to topcoating for good adhesion. Epoxy sealer gets very hard over time and topcoating tends to not stick well so therefore scuffing/sanding and laying down another coat of the sealer is generally recommended.

By the way, Summit has some "how to" painting documents online that cover all this pretty well in few words, unlike me.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294919595+400304+115+4294863534

 

[webelk6]

That is what I'm concerned with.

I don't want to to get to the paint stage and have someone say "you should have used __________ for primer instead of ________.


If I won the lottery, I would just take it apart and have it all powder coated. Rock Rash is so hard to take care of on a powdercoated rig.

Hey Dan

If you can get your hands on some zinc dust primer, diamond vogel paints handles this. I use this paint on rusty grain bins, metal roofs, etc., and did zinc some parts on my cruiser.

It is a primer finish. I can send you a gallon if you want. Paint is unstoppable- period. Esp. with the application you are talking about. Can also be "painted" with ANY top coat you choose when you choose.

Diamond Vogel Paint Manufacturing: Architectural, Industrial, Heavy Duty Protective and Traffic Coatings

Check under the heavy duty coatings. You may have some issues spraying it thru a cup gun. A typical 5 gallon bucket weighs 90lbs.

Let me know. You helped me, just returning the favor.

Scott

 

[D'Animal]

I checked Sherman Williams today. I took pic of the rig in and showed them what I was doing and how I was doing it. I was a little suprised on their approach; have the body parts dip cleaned, etching primer, blocking primer, primer color should match the paint, etc.

I have a devilbas (sp?) gun but I really didn't want to get it out, mix everything up just to shoot a little area.

I will plug away and probably end up sanding everything off when it is time to paint.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[webelk6]

I checked Sherman Williams today. I took pic of the rig in and showed them what I was doing and how I was doing it. I was a little suprised on their approach; have the body parts dip cleaned, etching primer, blocking primer, primer color should match the paint, etc.

I have a devilbas (sp?) gun but I really didn't want to get it out, mix everything up just to shoot a little area.

I will plug away and probably end up sanding everything off when it is time to paint.

Thanks for the feedback.

If you wanted to Sherwin williams should sell a similar paint called ken-kromik. Not nearly as good, and not sure if you can use it as a paint to leave alone like zinc.

IIRC zinc may come in rattle cans. I will call my rep today and let you know. That would be the ultimate solution.

Scott

 

[ttahara]

I work for PPG at a paint store and we sell a zinc primer that does not take the liquid and dust mixed together. With this primer you won't have to keep it agitated like other zinc primers..I would use that or a rust inhibitive primer then go with a aliphatic urethane or some car paint.

 

[webelk6]

I work for PPG at a paint store and we sell a zinc primer that does not take the liquid and dust mixed together. With this primer you won't have to keep it agitated like other zinc primers..I would use that or a rust inhibitive primer then go with a aliphatic urethane or some car paint.

diamond vogel and hallman lindsay have mastered the art of maintaining the zinc in suspension. Only 2 companies to do that. I typically spray about 300 gallons a yr. thru an airless.

You are right tho. Some companies have the 2 part zincs, where you MUST agitate. Diamond Vogel has 22 different zinc paint for a variety of applications.

 

[Weedhopper]

I'm sanding and priming my rig as I get areas of it done.

Is this the blue one ?? Ace Hardware safety blue is a dead match for smurf blue. I tested that paint and color on some stuff in the shop when I had my first truck.

Bulletproof.

 

[D'Animal]

The fenders on my Tow Rig came Zinc painted.

I'll try to find some of that primer.

 

[D'Animal]

This is for my FJ40.5. I have new cab corners for my Blue 1976 though.

Is this the blue one ?? Ace Hardware safety blue is a dead match for smurf blue. I tested that paint and color on some stuff in the shop when I had my first truck.

Bulletproof.

Thanks for the info.

 

[cruiser88]

A freaking men.....damn right. Be careful with the AMOUNT(not to much air cause the two part can dry before it hits the metal) of air you use or it will be powdery and wipe off with the brush of your hands.

However if you live in a hot climate YOU DO NOT WANT A PAINT TO DRY FAST. It will leave stop and start marks everywhere if you use a rattle can.

Hey Dan

If you can get your hands on some zinc dust primer, diamond vogel paints handles this. I use this paint on rusty grain bins, metal roofs, etc., and did zinc some parts on my cruiser.

It is a primer finish. I can send you a gallon if you want. Paint is unstoppable- period. Esp. with the application you are talking about. Can also be "painted" with ANY top coat you choose when you choose.

Diamond Vogel Paint Manufacturing: Architectural, Industrial, Heavy Duty Protective and Traffic Coatings

Check under the heavy duty coatings. You may have some issues spraying it thru a cup gun. A typical 5 gallon bucket weighs 90lbs.

Let me know. You helped me, just returning the favor.

Scott

 

[D'Animal]

I don't want to to get to the paint stage and have someone say "you should have used __________ for primer instead of ________

You could always prime it with anything and sand it all off later on.

And this is where I am at now.

I went to the PPG paint store and got some supplies. The guy told me more than I retained but in a nutshell, Rustolium and Krylon are pretty must for patio funiture.

The good commercial primer lifts the crappy primer as well as rattle can paint.

I should have used etching primer on my bed since it was new steel. I instead used Rustolium and now sanding it back off.

 

[cruiser88]

I tried somthing new with Rustolium on a test run on my mini.

I added hardener in my gun before spraying............damn I was surprised how good it turned out

And this is where I am at now.

I went to the PPG paint store and got some supplies. The guy told me more than I retained but in a nutshell, Rustolium and Krylon are pretty must for patio funiture.

The good commercial primer lifts the crappy primer as well as rattle can paint.

I should have used etching primer on my bed since it was new steel. I instead used Rustolium and now sanding it back off.