Knuckle rebuild - scarring found

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Nixa, MO
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www.whiteriverlawncare.com
Got into my knuckle rebuild. There wasn't any serious problems i noticed before, i just and am rebuilding and replacing everything possible on this truck.

so, i got the axle and knuckle out and noticed some scarring on it. The inside of the socket where the bearings ride on top and bottom, there was what felt like some pretty serious scarring.

do these 2 pieces rub together continually and does this need to be replaced? or is it something that could have been from PO that was fixed and is fine like it is.

i tried to load pics but no luck. can get pics later if that is needed.

thank for the advice.
 
I'm interested in pics.
 
I had the same problem last week with my left knuckle. I didn't pay much attention to it, because i thought that an older bearing must have been broken sometimes and that it's fixed now. Because all the grease was clean of metal parts and when i put everything together there wasn't any strange friction.
 
sounds like you are talking about the bearing races? If so, you gotta tap them out with a brass drift and replace them.
 
i got the good side apart, and the scarred up side looks just like the good side. must have been fixed by PO.

here are some pics. does this scarred area actually touch anything, or only when something like a bearing or race breaks??
inner knuckle.webp
knuckle scars 1.webp
knuckle scars 2.webp
 
You're fine but...

It looks like the bell of the Birfield is hitting the housing. That should not happen unless something is not right. IF the knuckle bearing was shot, the housing could move enough to allow this contact. Or if the brass bushing in the spindle was worn, the birf could move around enough to contact the inside of the bell. Still, it should not happen and you need to investigate before buttoning it up.
 
You're fine but...

It looks like the bell of the Birfield is hitting the housing. That should not happen unless something is not right. IF the knuckle bearing was shot, the housing could move enough to allow this contact. Or if the brass bushing in the spindle was worn, the birf could move around enough to contact the inside of the bell. Still, it should not happen and you need to investigate before buttoning it up.
You don't think somebody was grinding?
 
You don't think somebody was grinding?

Hard to tell, but when you grind the bell to fit birfs you don't need to grind that far in. It's usually just the outer lip.
 
i don't remember a bushing coming out. would this be shoved up inside with grease all around it? i haven't gotten all of it cleaned yet. i do see a bushing on the parts breakdown. i will look for it.
 
Looking at the picture, I agree with CruiserDrew.

But I have a few more questions.

Is this on both sides or just the drivers side?

Did the axle shaft slide out or did you have to force it?

The reason I ask?

You could have a bent axle tube. They bend just inside the spring perch on the driverside.

Where were the shims when you took them out. # of them on top and # of them on bottom.

You steering arm could have come loose at one time and the PO tightened them back down. This would allow the outer knuckle to tilt up and possibly rub the bottom of the housing.


Just my random thoughts.
 
i did check the axle tube, and it isn't bent. came out just fine. i think the initial thought of PO had a bearing go is accurate, and had it fixed and there was some scarring and all is fine. i didn't take apart the left side yet. the bearings i ordered didn't make it in the box when shipped. it will be a week before i can get them here and i don't want both sides apart at the same time. i will need something to look at when putting it back together.

on the shims - i had on the right side top 1- 1.0 and 1 - .30 shims. bottom had only 1.0. is this normal and should i put the new shims back in just exactly the same as the old ones?

and what is the torque on the 4 nuts that hold the shims on. there are 4 dowels 4 washers and 4 lock washers. do the lock washers go on top or bottom. couldn't find it in the FSM. the parts breakdown gives a number but no name to the part.

jeff
 

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