Know about poly bushings?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

e9999

e9999

Gotta get out there...
Moderator
Joined
Sep 20, 2003
Threads
1,085
Messages
19,104
Location
US
measuring some bushings from an articulated arm.

Those are used so wear may be a factor.

I was a bit surprised when I measured them because the ID of the center metal sleeve was not the same on both sides. These are the center sleeves that are split longitudinally so they should be able to expand some.

One one side I measured about 0.635" but on the other about 0.610". Likely a " 5/8" " center ID bushing I imagine. Exact same dimensions on the other bushing, which seems too odd to be purely coincidental. This made me wonder. If this difference in specs are not from more wear or more stress on one side than on the other or from poor quality control, would anyone be able to tell me, before I redrill them to a looser 5/8":


- do some bushings have an intentional "taper" of the center metal sleeve for some reason?

- considering the split center sleeve, are those supposed to grip the center bolt tightly and not let it rotate?
 
Not that obvious to me.
It is less than 0.625" on one side and the metal sleeve there is thicker than on the other.
So even it were wear on the larger side that caused the bigger diameter (very unlikely given the application and visual evidence), and assuming that they were the same to start with, both would have been less than 0.625" i.e. a clamping fit and there would be a need to force the bolt through with a hammer. In which case it would make sense to have it be unidirectional with one preferred side to drive the bolt through first.


Interestingly, and as a consequence of the design of this thing, when I tried to drill it to 5/8" all the way through I couldn't do it. The bit would open up the inner sleeve just enough that it couldn't bite and would not cut (and then would end up stuck in there). Maybe not sharp enough? Or just not possible to drill a split sleeve? I may try with a hand reamer if I can find one. If that doesn't work, I'll try a hone but that may be a long shot. I'd really like this to be a good 5/8" so I can use a hitch pin with no slop.
 
Why not just get a new bushing with the proper diameter hole?
Is that too obvious?
 
Pin_Head said:
Why not just get a new bushing with the proper diameter hole?
Is that too obvious?
Click to expand...


why would I buy something new if I can fix/improve the old one with a 2 mins job with a reamer?
 
OK, I think I understand now: Spend $50 on a precision reamer to save a $5 bushing. ;)
 
Pin_Head said:
OK, I think I understand now: Spend $50 on a precision reamer to save a $5 bushing. ;)
Click to expand...



... must ... refrain... from ... making... joke... about... your... username.... :D




So, anyway, anybody knows about split sleeve bushings? :)
 
e9999 said:
why would I buy something new if I can fix/improve the old one with a 2 mins job with a reamer?
Click to expand...

says the cheap bastard.
 
e9999 said:
Not that obvious to me.
It is less than 0.625" on one side and the metal sleeve there is thicker than on the other.
So even it were wear on the larger side that caused the bigger diameter (very unlikely given the application and visual evidence), and assuming that they were the same to start with, both would have been less than 0.625" i.e. a clamping fit and there would be a need to force the bolt through with a hammer. In which case it would make sense to have it be unidirectional with one preferred side to drive the bolt through first.


Interestingly, and as a consequence of the design of this thing, when I tried to drill it to 5/8" all the way through I couldn't do it. The bit would open up the inner sleeve just enough that it couldn't bite and would not cut (and then would end up stuck in there). Maybe not sharp enough? Or just not possible to drill a split sleeve? I may try with a hand reamer if I can find one. If that doesn't work, I'll try a hone but that may be a long shot. I'd really like this to be a good 5/8" so I can use a hitch pin with no slop.
Click to expand...

Might be easier to make your own bushing with a metal lathe.
 
e9999 said:
... must ... refrain... from ... making... joke... about... your... username.... :D




So, anyway, anybody knows about split sleeve bushings? :)
Click to expand...

(Sez Mr. Mega natural exponential.)

I have seen hundreds of split sleeve bushings, but I never took a micrometer to any of them. None of them appeared to be tapered. The bolt that went through the center wasn't.
 
Pin_Head said:
(Sez Mr. Mega natural exponential.)

I have seen hundreds of split sleeve bushings, but I never took a micrometer to any of them. None of them appeared to be tapered. The bolt that went through the center wasn't.
Click to expand...


thanks, good to know about the no-taper.

Do you know if a typical split sleeve bushing that i said to be 5/8" ID, say, would -when new- allow a 5/8" bolt or pin to go through loosely by hand? Or are they -because they are split- intentionally tight and the bolt has to be forced through -as in need to use a hammer?
 
The bolt slides right in. The center has a split metal sleeve because they are cheaper to make that with a drilled or DOM sleeve.

Are you trying to fit a 5/8 inch bolt into a 15 mm hole?
 
Pin_Head said:
The bolt slides right in. The center has a split metal sleeve because they are cheaper to make that with a drilled or DOM sleeve.

Are you trying to fit a 5/8 inch bolt into a 15 mm hole?
Click to expand...

OK, didn't know that, I was wondering if that was intended in order to clamp down on the bolt to prevent it from spinning within the bushing.

Possible, but I don't think so. I suspect this was built from/around Jeep CJ parts so likely all SAE. Outside diam of the bushing appears to be around 1.5". Doesn't look like there is a metal sleeve on the outside.

I could use a 15mm bolt I guess but it'd be a bit loose. I'd rather go up to 5/8" if it can be done easily so I can also use towing hitch pins. I'll see if I can ream this thing, but not obvious if it expands readily. Honing might work but it may take a long time.
 
e9999 said:
OK, didn't know that, I was wondering if that was intended in order to clamp down on the bolt to prevent it from spinning within the bushing.

Possible, but I don't think so. I suspect this was built from/around Jeep CJ parts so likely all SAE. Outside diam of the bushing appears to be around 1.5". Doesn't look like there is a metal sleeve on the outside.

I could use a 15mm bolt I guess but it'd be a bit loose. I'd rather go up to 5/8" if it can be done easily so I can also use towing hitch pins. I'll see if I can ream this thing, but not obvious if it expands readily. Honing might work but it may take a long time.
Click to expand...

good luck trying to make it work. Plenty of people are watching and laughing.
 
Pin_Head said:
The bolt slides right in. The center has a split metal sleeve because they are cheaper to make that with a drilled or DOM sleeve.

Are you trying to fit a 5/8 inch bolt into a 15 mm hole?
Click to expand...




it's done. Bit of mill and reamer time. Can use 5/8" hitch pins now. Nice and tight. Easily disassembled.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom