Dom,pretty sure we have all been there and done that!! I know I have! You are just crazy enough to admit it!!! All good if no one gets hurt..
Build Just had to treat myself for Halloween... 65 SWB
- Thread starter DomSmith
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sorry to hear Dom, fyi that top plate metal is fatigued now and it will also be needed to be welded to a new plate up top to reinforce it, after being pounded flat.
- Thread starter
- #403
^^^Good point. Might be worth cutting off that top piece and welding an entire new piece in its place.
Dom,
Very glad no one was anywhere near that. You have to wonder with some of us using the Harbor Freight Chinese knockoff tools,
just how much risk we are taking on. Many years ago I needed a bottle jack and asked a buddy where to get the best price. He told me his brother was a fire captain and advised him NEVER to buy any lifting tool that wasn't made in the USA. He had gone on too many calls where something failed and the user perished in the process.
The advice at that time given me was to buy a Hein-Werner jack with the Made in USA label, since they also offered the identical jack, but foreign made, under a different name. Item cost 5 times the foreign version. I was told that much of the price difference was due to product-liability insurance. I still have that jack and am here to write this today.
Of course, the other jack might have performed identically, and I'm a fool for throwing away money needlessly. Your incident reminds us all to be cautious. Thanks for sharing. And thanks for the reminder.
Very glad no one was anywhere near that. You have to wonder with some of us using the Harbor Freight Chinese knockoff tools,
just how much risk we are taking on. Many years ago I needed a bottle jack and asked a buddy where to get the best price. He told me his brother was a fire captain and advised him NEVER to buy any lifting tool that wasn't made in the USA. He had gone on too many calls where something failed and the user perished in the process.
The advice at that time given me was to buy a Hein-Werner jack with the Made in USA label, since they also offered the identical jack, but foreign made, under a different name. Item cost 5 times the foreign version. I was told that much of the price difference was due to product-liability insurance. I still have that jack and am here to write this today.
Of course, the other jack might have performed identically, and I'm a fool for throwing away money needlessly. Your incident reminds us all to be cautious. Thanks for sharing. And thanks for the reminder.
this was a case of a tool not being used properly, not the quality of the tool. IMO harbor freight tools are safe when used properly. Although they definetly will not last as long......
- Thread starter
- #407
This was definitely a case of me not using the tool properly and it would’ve worked as advertised if I had taken a few minutes to make sure everything was set up right.
In a perfect world I’d buy all super nice tools and I do when I think they will get lots of use or I feel like the alternative is a total waste of money.
I don’t work under cars unless I’m certain the risk is minimal even when failure occurs. I leave tires on, chock wheels excessively and won’t get under my trucks with jack stands only. I’ll always add a floor jack or cribbing.
For the amount of times I’ll use an engine hoist I’m good with the harbor freight stuff. The engine stands and hoists (when properly used) have served me well. In fact I purchased a harbor freight hoist yesterday to finish this job because it was faster than trying to source some plate to repair Noah’s.
That will have to happen in a week or so when I get back in town.
In a perfect world I’d buy all super nice tools and I do when I think they will get lots of use or I feel like the alternative is a total waste of money.
I don’t work under cars unless I’m certain the risk is minimal even when failure occurs. I leave tires on, chock wheels excessively and won’t get under my trucks with jack stands only. I’ll always add a floor jack or cribbing.
For the amount of times I’ll use an engine hoist I’m good with the harbor freight stuff. The engine stands and hoists (when properly used) have served me well. In fact I purchased a harbor freight hoist yesterday to finish this job because it was faster than trying to source some plate to repair Noah’s.
That will have to happen in a week or so when I get back in town.
- Thread starter
- #408
So today went much better...
First I got lucky in that the motor never made it to the ground so no damage to the floor or the bellhousing. No firewall dents or smashed brake lines on the axle.
The new engine hoist worked very well and the engine hoist leveling tool recommended by ClemsonCruiser made things much easier. I was able to keep the nose up during removal and it came out cleanly.
I modified a 1000lb furniture dolly to be a low profile engine cart to store the old motor in the shop. I’m hoping to lower it about 3 more inches and it’ll fit under one of the workbenches.
Now I just need to decide how involved I want to get in cleaning up this engine compartment...
I’m also a little concerned that the disc brake booster may interfere with the 3FE.
First I got lucky in that the motor never made it to the ground so no damage to the floor or the bellhousing. No firewall dents or smashed brake lines on the axle.
The new engine hoist worked very well and the engine hoist leveling tool recommended by ClemsonCruiser made things much easier. I was able to keep the nose up during removal and it came out cleanly.
I modified a 1000lb furniture dolly to be a low profile engine cart to store the old motor in the shop. I’m hoping to lower it about 3 more inches and it’ll fit under one of the workbenches.
Now I just need to decide how involved I want to get in cleaning up this engine compartment...
I’m also a little concerned that the disc brake booster may interfere with the 3FE.
- Thread starter
- #410
This weekend we returned home from Tucson with a new toy my wife’s father gave me for the shop.
I rewired a new plug and re-installed the shaft this afternoon. Then bolted an old vise I had on to the table and used it to drill out the passenger side motor mount to 12mm to use on the 3FE...
It is missing the stop collar and rod so I’m going to have to source that.
Next up: remove the clutch and bellhousing from the F135 and get them all cleaned up.
I rewired a new plug and re-installed the shaft this afternoon. Then bolted an old vise I had on to the table and used it to drill out the passenger side motor mount to 12mm to use on the 3FE...
It is missing the stop collar and rod so I’m going to have to source that.
Next up: remove the clutch and bellhousing from the F135 and get them all cleaned up.
Dom, looking Great. Old vintage tools that have been handed down are awesome. You will not doubt get a ton of use out of it.
Mark
Mark
- Thread starter
- #412
Made some progress today but a few devastating setbacks as well...
Got the 3FE on the hoist and prepped for transplant. New rear main seal, cleanup up and installed the 3 speed bellhousing and mounts.
Also got the newer style motor mounts installed on the frame...
Decided to fit the motor before putting the flywheel on and that’s when the disappointment set in...
EFI is definitely not going to clear the Geo Metro booster. The picture above shows the motor a full 8” from lining up with the motor mounts.
I had read that people had issues with booster clearance so I was a little worried but I figured this is about the smallest booster out there... but no such luck. A few minutes later and the booster was out. I think this is solvable, I just need to do some brainstorming.
As if the booster wasn’t disappointing enough...
Column linkage is a no go. This is devastating. Everything is solvable but in its current configuration there’s not a chance in hell it will work. The picture above is with the majority of the linkage removed so the motor could be put in place.
I’m thinking I may have to just put the 4 speed in after all and give up my dream of the column shift. I hate that.
Not happy.
Got the 3FE on the hoist and prepped for transplant. New rear main seal, cleanup up and installed the 3 speed bellhousing and mounts.
Also got the newer style motor mounts installed on the frame...
Decided to fit the motor before putting the flywheel on and that’s when the disappointment set in...
EFI is definitely not going to clear the Geo Metro booster. The picture above shows the motor a full 8” from lining up with the motor mounts.
I had read that people had issues with booster clearance so I was a little worried but I figured this is about the smallest booster out there... but no such luck. A few minutes later and the booster was out. I think this is solvable, I just need to do some brainstorming.
As if the booster wasn’t disappointing enough...
Column linkage is a no go. This is devastating. Everything is solvable but in its current configuration there’s not a chance in hell it will work. The picture above is with the majority of the linkage removed so the motor could be put in place.
I’m thinking I may have to just put the 4 speed in after all and give up my dream of the column shift. I hate that.
Not happy.
- Thread starter
- #413
Here’s how she sits...
Before I install the passenger side rear mount I’m going to consider pulling the bellhousing and tackling the 4 speed and tranny tunnel issue.
As a side note the rear fuel hardline and hook do not fit. The bolts hit the firewall so I’ll need to modify this. No biggie.
Definitely getting some things done but had really hoped the column shift was an option.
Before I install the passenger side rear mount I’m going to consider pulling the bellhousing and tackling the 4 speed and tranny tunnel issue.
As a side note the rear fuel hardline and hook do not fit. The bolts hit the firewall so I’ll need to modify this. No biggie.
Definitely getting some things done but had really hoped the column shift was an option.
- Thread starter
- #414
Booster bracket clearance...
Dom sorry to hear of your booster clearance issues. Years ago on my 3FE swap into my '62 FJ40 I was able to run a early 60's Corvette master cylinder. It wasn't boosted but it did let me run dual circuits on the brakes. I imagine you'll want to stay boosted but this an option if you can't find another solution.
ABS Poweubrake master cylinder fits....it would be the perfect master cylinder if it wasn't so expensive. For me I need brakes that work and brakes that work extremely well....I'll spend the money on them.
Not cutting corners with your steering either!
No sir....no messing around with steering columns. I think that column assembly was $400 with the bushing I got from Cruiser Outfitters. Kind of nice to have the collapsable section too. Don't really need a steering column in my chest when my face hits that really soft steering wheel.
- Thread starter
- #419
Thanks for the input guys. There are definitely solutions for the brakes. It really will come down to budget and how much time vs money I want to spend.
Considering an angled booster bracket like the early broncos but I need to do more research.
Considering an angled booster bracket like the early broncos but I need to do more research.
- Thread starter
- #420
A little more progress today. I decided to add the 4 speed now as tackling the column shift issue is a non-starter for now. Maybe 4 speed column shift and 60 series power steering later on.
The 4 speed bellhousing I have is apparently from a late 60 series so it need a little modification. I drilled out the existing bellhousing mount bolts and tapped with 12x1.75.
I then used those mounts to mark where the third hole needs to go. Drilled and tapped a third hole on each side...
The 4 speed bellhousing I have is apparently from a late 60 series so it need a little modification. I drilled out the existing bellhousing mount bolts and tapped with 12x1.75.
I then used those mounts to mark where the third hole needs to go. Drilled and tapped a third hole on each side...