Just got a trailer hitch receiver ??? (1 Viewer)

[ebod]

My 2004 LC didn't come with a hitch receiver, so I just bought a used one from Slee. The receiver I got appears to be in pretty good shape, but it does have a bit of superficial-looking surface rust. I'd like to clean this up (and prevent further rusting) before I install the receiver.

-- What's the best way for me to get rid of the rust? Should I just try a wire brush or is there something else I should do?

-- What should I use to re-paint the receiver? If it's just rattle can spray paint, is there a special kind I should get?

-- Do I have to sand and repaint the entire receiver or can I just spray over what's already there?

Also, I don't see any cables/connectors to plug my trailer's lights into. What do I have to do to get a plug on for the receiver? Is this a big wiring job or is this one of those things where the wire is there and just tucked away?

Thanks in advance.

 

[hoser]

Depending on how anal you want to be, sanding the rust spots and rattle canning the receiver should do just fine. If you are a perfectionist, bead/sandblasting it and then powdercoating it will make it like new. $10 vs $100.

 

[soberman001]

My 2004 LC didn't come with a hitch receiver, so I just bought a used one from Slee. The receiver I got appears to be in pretty good shape, but it does have a bit of superficial-looking surface rust. I'd like to clean this up (and prevent further rusting) before I install the receiver.

-- What's the best way for me to get rid of the rust? Should I just try a wire brush or is there something else I should do?

-- What should I use to re-paint the receiver? If it's just rattle can spray paint, is there a special kind I should get?

-- Do I have to sand and repaint the entire receiver or can I just spray over what's already there?

Also, I don't see any cables/connectors to plug my trailer's lights into. What do I have to do to get a plug on for the receiver? Is this a big wiring job or is this one of those things where the wire is there and just tucked away?

Thanks in advance.

Go with a cheap paint and like the other Gent said, sand it all down and use a black Rustoleom. Because the surfaces aren't that big (like a door panel), rattle can will work great, but you need to clean up the surface including any gloss from the paint that isn't rusting. If you want a tad of extra bling, without the extra $$, then get rattle can clear coat to finish off the job.

For a wiring harness, go to UHaul or PepBoys and have them put one in for you. Or you can buy one and stick it in yourself. Best to know what kinda trailer you are going to pull before going through the trouble.

 

[NMuzj100]

I would recommend avoiding Uhaul or a general shop like Pepboys for the wiring. (They get away with shortcuts like tapping the taillights because they are only interested in the fix working for a short rental run) Go somewhere that knows trailers. A large RV shop or experienced trailer dealer is your best bet. (somewhere with big $50K trailers)

This post-and-reply from trailer tech also gives some good info. (the info was actually off-topic for the thread so I'll just quote the good stuff)

I'm hoping someone might be able to help me with my question.

I have a 2003 Toyota Land Cruiser, on which I have installed a tow hitch. (The vehicle did not come with a factory-installed trailer tow package).

My question is this: I am now seeking a wiring harness to connect the OEM 7-pin connector (located under the dash of the car above the brake pedal) to an electric brake controller module.

Does Toyota or another parts manufacturer make a wiring harness that is compatible with this connector? Where can I buy this wiring harness and is there a part number available?

Can any brake controller be used? The brake controller I have has a 4-pin connector on it.

Thank you in advance for your replies. Jennifer

Hi Jennifer. This probably belongs in a different forum, but I can answer your question. Tekonsha makes adapters for factory wire harnesses They do list a cable that fits "all" Toyota trucks but it doesn't specifically list the LC. You should probably email them for confirmation.

http://www.tekonsha.com/bch3040.html

This cable will only work with Tekonsha models as described on the website. If you have something other than a Tekonsha you need to contact that manufacturer. Or you could cut the Tekonsha connector off and splice the wires.

This chart shows the Toyota wire color codes for the factory connector:
http://www.tekonsha.com/files/BC_Wire_Harness_Chart.pdf

Etrailer.com should have the cable.

John Davies
Spokane WA

Whole thread Here (mostly on brake controllers)

Lots of good info on wiring harness requirements at etrailer.com. (all the following pictures are from etrailer) Don't bother asking your Toyota dealer about the harness. They'll need a few years selling the Tundra with the big V8 on the US market before they know anything about proper trailer wiring.

You need to know what the requirements are of the trailer you are going to be towing. Given the known weaknesses of Toyota electronics, problems others have experienced (feedback from the trailer damaging the electronics in the LC) and the expense of the electronics in a 2004 I would go with a independently powered "circuit protected" system. The separate turn and brake signals of the LC require a converter to run a standard trailer (these often burn out in the expensive factory harnesses so you're not missing anything).

For the hardware I like the units with both 7-pin and 4-pin outputs so you can tow anything. Get a 7 to 6 adapter and you're set for the 6-pin. 4-pin is common on small stuff that you might rent (chippers, mixers, utility trailers ect) with little lead time so it's nice to have the plug without needing an adapter and to get both is only a few extra dollars and no extra labor.

Then mount it up and out of the way with one of these boxes so you can wheel without ripping out your new wiring. (Wish I'd done this.)

 

[EdsCruisin]

I would recommend avoiding Uhaul or a general shop like Pepboys for the wiring. (They get away with shortcuts like tapping the taillights because they are only interested in the fix working for a short rental run) Go somewhere that knows trailers. A large RV shop or experienced trailer dealer is your best bet. (somewhere with big $50K trailers)


Lots of good info on wiring harness requirements at etrailer.com. (all the following pictures are from etrailer) Don't bother asking your Toyota dealer about the harness. They'll need a few years selling the Tundra with the big V8 on the US market before they know anything about proper trailer wiring.

You need to know what the requirements are of the trailer you are going to be towing. Given the known weaknesses of Toyota electronics, problems others have experienced (feedback from the trailer damaging the electronics in the LC) and the expense of the electronics in a 2004 I would go with a independently powered "circuit protected" system. The separate turn and brake signals of the LC require a converter to run a standard trailer (these often burn out in the expensive factory harnesses so you're not missing anything).

For the hardware I like the units with both 7-pin and 4-pin outputs so you can tow anything. Get a 7 to 6 adapter and you're set for the 6-pin. 4-pin is common on small stuff that you might rent (chippers, mixers, utility trailers ect) with little lead time so it's nice to have the plug without needing an adapter and to get both is only a few extra dollars and no extra labor.

Then mount it up and out of the way with one of these boxes so you can wheel without ripping out your new wiring. (Wish I'd done this.)

I couldn't agree more with NMuzj100. Stay away from U-Haul, and go to a camper or boat trailer shop instead, if you can't do it yourself. I get my trailering supplies from Etrailer.com. They have great prices and service. I have also had the burn outs and short that messed up my vehicle electronics. Some times it can be as simple as a burned out bulb that is causing the short. The appropriate converter with independent circuit protection run about $70, depending on the wire connectors you use. They are worth every dime! It is nice to know that every time I plug my trailers into my vehicle, all the lights work as planned and if the trailer lights don't work, my vehicle lights still do.

 

[NMuzj100]

Here is a picture of the OEM Toyota Converter Box that went bad on my vehicle and the Hoppy unit I replaced it with.

Some good info at www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com

The OEM box was glued to the sheet metal behind the jack holder using some really strong two sided tape. Don't worry it will come loose without damaging the metal if you pull hard enough (leave some wire to grab onto when you cut it out). I would have gone with the independently powered unit but needed to get the truck ready and couldn't wait for parts.

Here is the 6:4 harness output I went with. I used the standard sheet metal mounting bracket in the kit with one new hole drilled so I could mount it where the old 4-pin was. You can see how a 285/75R16 spare cuts into your available wiring room.

 

[TXLX470]

Here is a picture of the OEM Toyota Converter Box that went bad on my vehicle and the Hoppy unit I replaced it with.

Some good info at www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com

The OEM box was glued to the sheet metal behind the jack holder using some really strong two sided tape. Don't worry it will come loose without damaging the metal if you pull hard enough (leave some wire to grab onto when you cut it out). I would have gone with the independently powered unit but needed to get the truck ready and couldn't wait for parts.

Here is the 6:4 harness output I went with. I used the standard sheet metal mounting bracket in the kit with one new hole drilled so I could mount it where the old 4-pin was. You can see how a 285/75R16 spare cuts into your available wiring room.

NMuzj, what is the part number for the above converter. I checked the web site and they have this for 98. I ordered one from etrailer but it does not replace the the OEM converter. Instead it pulgs in the brake wire socket on rear passenger side

 

[TXLX470]

Here is a picture of the OEM Toyota Converter Box that went bad on my vehicle and the Hoppy unit I replaced it with.

Some good info at www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com

The OEM box was glued to the sheet metal behind the jack holder using some really strong two sided tape. Don't worry it will come loose without damaging the metal if you pull hard enough (leave some wire to grab onto when you cut it out). I would have gone with the independently powered unit but needed to get the truck ready and couldn't wait for parts.

Here is the 6:4 harness output I went with. I used the standard sheet metal mounting bracket in the kit with one new hole drilled so I could mount it where the old 4-pin was. You can see how a 285/75R16 spare cuts into your available wiring room.

This is what I got from etrailer. By the way , how many lights(brake,signal/side maeker) did your popup had and were the power enough to have them bright. When I conected the the camper lights were very dim(bearly can see)

 

[NMuzj100]

I had good bright lights but I only had about 8 total lights. The draw did eventually push my 9 year old OEM Panasonic battery over the edge and I had to replace it.

I would really recommend an isolated power system with it's own line direct from the battery. I used the Hopkins Manufacturing trailer converter #48925 (not isolated or circuit protected so not the best choice but it works). Where the converter gets the turn "signals" doesn't matter but where it pulls the power does. Make sure it also provides "circuit protection" to the vehicle wiring.

You could also switch the trailer lights to LEDs to reduce power consumption.

 

[TXLX470]

I think I will be better off by getting a isolated power system direct from the battery. I need one anyway for the brake controller and for the popup battery charger. But do I connect the coverter for turn/brake signals and then the direct power to the 7 pin contector or what is the best way to do it.

Thanks in advance

Cheers

 

[NMuzj100]

I think I will be better off by getting a isolated power system direct from the battery. I need one anyway for the brake controller and for the popup battery charger.

I agree.

But do I connect the coverter for turn/brake signals and then the direct power to the 7 pin contector or what is the best way to do
it.

The power should go to the converter. The signals it gets from the vehicle wiring will flip relays in the converter preventing the trailer from overdrawing the vehicle wiring. I am not sure if your "charge" line feeds through the converter or runs direct to the 7/6 pin connector.

This is the Hopkins #46365 but you should be able to get the same thing from Drawtight or Etrailer.

http://www.trailerwiring.com/
Here are installation instructions linked from the page.

http://www.trailerwiring.com/inst/46365.pdf


Try this page at for your choices at etrailer -
http://www.etrailer.com/c-ELEE.htm

I liked the last one on the page. All look like they'll take additional parts to get working on a 7-pin set up.

 

[cruiser7773]

Are you sure?

Are you certain the your rig isn't already wired? My '04 didn't come with a receiver either, but is was wired from the factory. I think that they all were; it was the receiver that was the optional item. Check next to the spare. Mine has a standard round 7-pin connector from the factory. Good luck.

 

[savirc]

I'm currently having to do this. Installed dissent rear bumper and I need to have the trailer wiring done before HIH7 trip. I know I once took off the driver side quarter interior quarter panel off and I distinctly remember seeing a small box that said "trailer module" or something attached to the rear pillar.

I'm going to look at the FSM tonight but I would like to just be able to use existing plug under the truck. Do you guys know where it is on the truck? I found a few female plugs not sure which one it is there.