just back from death valley

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Mar 8, 2006
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had a great time even if it was a little hot in the valley itself, but clouds and some rain rolled in sat night i think it was and that cooled things down nicely.

spent most of the time up in canyons along west side road. tried to go up hauhaupna (spelling im sure) canyon which supposedly has an oasis at the end of the trail. unfortunately the trail is really wrecked up starting when you come off the wash and go down the steep incline into the canyon bottom. made it from there about another 5 miles but that was over boulders and washouts quite a bit. then after a bunch of obstacles the trail disappeared into a rock field and i had to turn around (being solo and not wanting to have to walk out).

has anyone ever been up to the oasis that is supposedly up there? might have been nice but i didnt even see water aside from a small stream in the trail for a small bit before the terminally washed out trail.

anyway turned around and my fj60 had a disagreement with a boulder on the way out over who should occupy some space. of course the boulder won and i ended up with a smashed up rear right lower quarter panel. my own fault really: i got my rear diff hung up on a rock and instead of getting out the hi lift and building a ramp of rocks under the wheel just tried to brute force it (not too wise i figured afterward...what with being there by myself, but my pea brain dont work too well in stress situations sometimes). anyway managed to get undone from the killer rocks with only my pride bruised, my truck dented and one mud flap lying in the back and back down to the west side road where i proceeded to known territory of johnson canyon.

now this was sweet, didnt see ANYONE the three days i was up there. hiked up to hungry bills ranch and otherwise kicked back with my chair in the stream and relaxed, drank beer, and planned next nights dinner. its usually windy in this canyon ive found and this was no exception, pretty strong wind on and off for a couple of the days but nothing real bad and not much blowing dust or anything. cactus were blooming and there were still a lot of beautiful wild flowers around. didnt see any rattlers this year like in years past but did see a bobcat up on the hillside one evening walking back from hungry bills.

saturday night it started to sprinkle and the clouds obscured the stars so i went to bed around 10 which is pretty early for me even solo in the mountains. got up next morning and it was cool and cloudy which was fine by me as i was going to leave anyway. went down to the valley and it was temperate there, enough so i explored the borax works and the artists canyon on the way back to furnace creek for gas and ice.

from there went to one of my all time favorite hidden places, china garden spring outside darwin. as usual there was no one around but there were lots of tire tracks so someone goes there besides me. if youve never been there i would recommend it...beautiful canyon to hike up and from the top of it you can see the sand dunes etc, very cool. there are more mine artifacts at and near the spring than in all of skidoo put together (forgot to mention i took a detour to skidoo on the way to china garden...but its way too controlled for my liking, kind of like bodie). plus in the evening the bats come out of the mine and put on a nice show at the spring and later on the burros come out of the hills to drink at the spring and if youre quiet they will walk right by you!

one strange deal: this year at panamint springs there was some kind of comedy workshop and while i was at china garden this suv pulled in with two gals and two (unrelated as it turns out) guys. one of the guys is a local from darwin and the other guy was completely naked! darn always my luck its the GUY who is naked but that aside these folks cracked me up...one of the gals was there for the comedy thing, evidently she is a comedian but the naked guy was funny as hell (i think he was trippin)...he wanted to go swimming in the spring (with the koi that are there) and asked me if it was ok like i owned the place or something. i said hey if youre crazy enough to walk around the desert naked, well its not much of a reach to be crazy enough to take a dip in the spring! but i reminded him of why wc fields never drank water: hey fish **** in that stuff! so in the end he deferred and didnt get in. anyway the gals told me to come down to the club for the show that night and gave me a ticket but i told them that truthfully i was there to get AWAY from that stuff so they got in the suv and split...

anyway that night the wind came up and i was sitting in my chair enjoying the fire and i hear this <snap> up above and i get up quick and run off to the side! a BIG branch comes out of the tree and literally lands 6 inches from the chair. now THAT would have been fun!

so i decide its time to go to bed (not under the tree thank you very much) and call it a night.

next day i pack up and leave and drive through darwin stopping on the way to explore some ruins that have always intrigued me but i never took the time to check out. i got out in darwin and wandered around a bit. very cool place esp for vehicles...man there are some strange cars around there, for some reasons its a vaxhall magnet not to mention vw. on the way out of town there is a guy in a vw talking to a lady in the middle of the road so i stop to listen in a bit. turns out the guy is the caretaker of the big mine the town was founded around and so i start talking to him about cars and volkswagens (i also have a vw thing with a built motor etc) and he invites me up to check out the mine grounds which ive always wanted to do. spend the rest of the morning and some of the afternoon there wandering around all the old buildings looking at artifacts. very cool. i told the guy i wanted to move there so he took my phone number and said the next time he hears about a place for sale he will give me a ring. its amazing what a little sensimilla will do for you.

anyway i left there and made my way back to sacto, sadly. another death valley trip successfully completed and another verificiation that a fj60 is one hell of a rugged vehicle even if the driver can be a lamebrain sometimes.

one love
jah bill
 
Good write up! did you happen to get any pics?
I gotta tell ya and dont take this the wrong way...You got some big hairy ballz to be doin that trip ALONE!:D
My hats off to ya!
Check my write up in events and trail under "blotch 2006".
Id post a "show thread" but I donno how!

sounds like a blast

Chicago
 
>You got some big hairy ballz to be doin that trip ALONE!

theres a thin line between courage and stupidity! sometimes im not sure which side of that line im on! but i figured me and 6 bottles of water could always walk out to west side road if need be...

i didnt get any pics im afraid. actually got some at bodie on the way but then the batteries in my digi camera died without warning. i really regreted not getting a shot of that cat or of the darwin mine.

i think i checked out your writeup before i left for a primer!

one love
jah bill
 
jb welda said:
>You got some big hairy ballz to be doin that trip ALONE!
theres a thin line between courage and stupidity! sometimes im not sure which side of that line im on! but i figured me and 6 bottles of water could always walk out to west side road if need be...
i didnt get any pics im afraid. actually got some at bodie on the way but then the batteries in my digi camera died without warning. i really regreted not getting a shot of that cat or of the darwin mine.
i think i checked out your writeup before i left for a primer!
one love
jah bill

Funny, you mentioned Bodie. Up there 2 years ago in my 60 with my 12 year old son. Hit Bodie(awsome) and spied a goat trail up to Bodie Peak. Didn't look to bad but when we got there it was very steep and some bolders got in my way. Without lockers and no one knowing where we were, I backed off and went else where. That's when my ignitor when out. Ouch. $700 in towing and $400 for the part pluse expenses. At least we had cell service.
We can't always travel with someone but it's usually best in the harsher parts of the wild.
:cool:
 
i do have the most important tool in any british car owners tool kit (i have a lotus 7 also...) though: the extended AAA card! but no cell phone! :crybaby:

dont know if they actually come fetch you when youre off road but i asked csaa one time and they said they would as long as the 100 mile limit wasnt exceeded. i found it hard to believe and dont think i want to find out!

i actually took the cottonwood canyon road out of bodie which takes to you some cool overlooks of mono lake. there was a road closed sign on the road but i asked the ranger and she said it was clear so i took it.

i dont like just driving up steep go-nowhere roads unless i know whats up there for exactly the reason you mention (having to potentially back down), but i do have my moments! having a chevy 350 under the hood helps my stupidity, uh i mean courage though! its always easier if you got someone around to assist if and when your courage is exceeded by the laws of physics or the law of murphy for sure!

one love
jah bill
 
ps, heres a pic of me and some of my crew, in response to the "ballz" query.

hope this isnt too graphic!

couillus.jpg


one love
jah bill
 
and here is the one pic i managed to get before the batteries went kaput.

nicecruiserinjohnson1wh.jpg


that was in johnson canyon. the stream at this point is about one quarter its flow up canyon a bit; at this point a lot of it has become groundwater...

one love
jah bill
 
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not sure why these pics coming out so big, sorry bout that! i thought i sized them properly but maybe not!

one love
jah bill
 
looks like the place we camped a couple of years ago...COLD, WINDY...
Is that heading south past the dunes?

Chicago
 
Nice lookin rig BTW.

Chicago
 
im not sure what dunes you mean, but if you mean those sort of "main" dunes, yes its south of there. it was a bit windy, and has been in the past, but this year anyway it wasnt cold. but you know the cold/hot part can change fast around there.

im still curious whats up the next canyon to the north of this one, the one that the trail was washed out on. according to the guide books its supposed to be pretty spectacular up there...Hanaupah Canyon is the name of it...

one love
jah bill
 
Thanks for the detailed trip report, Bill. That cottonwood you're parked under in that picture is way up at the top of the canyon, before the road gives out and you can take off on foot for Hungry Bill, right? We were using the lame "Explorer's Guide to Death Valley," which promised a grove of cottonwoods up there, but all we found was one scraggly tree. If that's the one, it sure has leafed out since we were there. We also took the 80 up into Marble Canyon -- ever been there? Rough approach up a riverebed filled with boulders, and none of the springs that the Guide described, but a beautiful place anyway. This was a couple of months ago, and the weather was about the same. Saw no one at all up in Johnson Canyon.

Arthur
 
Maybe not -- what do you say it is, then?

We were told about a grove of cottonwoods at the top of the canyon and found only a bare remnant of a tree, so I assumed that it was a cottonwood. Considering the long leaves in this picture and the fact that it's near water, I guess it could be a willow.
 
the grove of cottonwoods was about a quarter mile further but the trail has been washed out. this year it was improved but still you had to drive in the creek for a ways and then through all this brush to get your vehicle up to it. it is really nice up there and in fact i hiked my food up there one night and stayed in a tent. this grove is right at the beginning of the actual trail to hungry bills...there is a spring there and it looks like jeeps or other short wheelbase, narrow vehicles go up to it at least occasionally; i probably could have made it if i really wanted to.

that spot im parked in is a bit exposed but it was really very nice: flat, good views and not far from the actual spring plus that willow or whatever it is provided pretty ample shade in the afternoon, at least on a 90 degree (only) day. note though the "spring" is not entirely the source of the water seen in the photo; as i mentioned the flow was much greater upcanyon more (and upcanyon from the spring) but a lot of it disappears into the soil at some point before where i was camped.

marble canyon sounds nice too, i will take a look at it next time.

i use that big book on trails in southern california plus a pretty good one on hiking death valley. the latters focus is of course on hiking but it is pretty good about describing 4wd routes to the trailheads. it described this particular canyon to a T although i guess the trail up to the spring was still in good shape when it was written as it claims you can easily drive right up there...

one love
jah bill
 
canyoneer, just busting on you :D willow sounds good...

nice trip JB, too big a place not to want to spend many, many days wondering around.
 

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