Johnstone Strait

[soenke]

Hey, I´ve been invited here by Steve to ask you guys about Vancouver Island.

We plan kayaking Johnstone Strait in June/July this summer. We have about 3 weeks time. Want to hire a cheap car in Vancouver to transport the gear and us up north beeing free to stop on the way where we want. We don´t know yet if we should bring our Feathercraft or if we should rent a f/g Kayak in Telegraph Cove.
Transport of the foldable in the plane is either very expensive or not insured...though we like it a lot better to sit in our own boat.

We want to stay most of the time around the Johnstone Strait area to watch Orkas and other wildlife rather than trying to follow the coastline around...

But we have no practical experience how to behave meeting bears, specially in the camp...is it enaugh to seperate sleeping and cooking? How do you guys practice safe food handling?
How about places to camp, have heard they are scarce?

What about life jackets, we have automatic ones with a CO2 cartridge, might be a problem to bring them on the plane.

Can I buy new ones in Vancouver or on the Island?

Is there any good maps of that area? Also we need infos about the tides, charts, pepper spray, food and gas for cooking. We use this system:

Do I get all the stuff in Vancouver and maybe even at one place?
I´ll be greatfull for any suggestions

 

[Rigpig]

Renting kayaks will be easy, supplies can be found here for starters Outdoor Gear - Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC) - quipement d'activits de grande nature , check with local outfitters for maps, tide tables, charts, coast guard is always a good idea, or see what "search and rescue" might offer for advice on plotting your routes and destinations. Stay safe and have a good trip!
Cheers!

 

[wombat]

my 2 cents worth- i would rent kayaks,the area you are going to you can camp pretty well any where you pull your kayak up on the beach,preferably a sandy beach with a small creek for water. co2 i would buy here,your camp gas i dont think you can buy here so i would leave that at home and buy a small stove here. tide charts bear spray and charts are available at any outdoors store.
now bears,and how to act,there are two proven methods.
1- dont make eye contact and slowly lower your head down between your legs and kiss your sorry ass good bye.
2-work out hard before your trip on your running technique and remember you dont have to be really fast only faster than your partner.
im just kidding what most people do is never take any food of any kind into your tent,not even a granola bar.hang all food and dirty cooking utensils up in a tree.most of the bears you are going to see will be black bears and they are more afraid of you.if one comes into your camp i would make lots of noise like banging pot and pans etc. the most important thing is to not let the fear of bears ruin your beautiful trip. have a great time.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

Renting kayaks will be easy, supplies can be found here for starters Outdoor Gear - Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC) - quipement d'activits de grande nature , check with local outfitters for maps, tide tables, charts, coast guard is always a good idea, or see what "search and rescue" might offer for advice on plotting your routes and destinations. Stay safe and have a good trip!
Cheers!

I'd start at Mountain Equipment Co-op as Rigpig suggested. The will likely have all your needs, fuel, CO2 cartridges, food, pepper spray and charts. There is one in Vancouver and Victoria.

What sort of camping are you looking for? A beach to pull your boat up on and camp or are you doing day trips from a base camp? Theres not too much accessable by road north of Campbell River, there is just Sayward and Kelsey Bay. Sayward is a town but Kelsey Bay is just a log sort and 40 minutes of dirt road off the highway.

If you get the marine charts or a kayaking book for the area it will tell you of camp areas. The remote ones will likely not have any drinking water or facilities. Pt Neville Inlet (not sure of the spelling) is a nice spot on the east side of the straight, there was a post office and liquor store there 5 years ago, not sure if it is still there though.

As for bears, just don't be stupid. Leave your food and shaving kit in your car if its an option or store it hanging from a tree. Absolutely keep it out of your tent, and I meen everything. Bears will go after tooth paste, shampoo, grease (automotive), canned food, deoderant, the list goes on. They are generally cautious of humans though so just don't give them any reason to look in your tent.

Heres a link to a guide that I used to work with: Sea Kayak British Columbia orca killer whale tour - Mothership Adventures he is based south of Johnstone strait though, there might be some useful info though.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

Oh ya, wearing a bell and using pepper spray just makes their poop jingle and smell like pepper! I think pepper spray is just going to annoy the bear more, if it is already charging that will likely not stop it. If its rumaging around camp and being annoying then spraying it could cause it to attack. Just my opinion though. Like Womat says though, don't let the fear of them ruin it. And you likely will not be alone, there will be lots of othe kayakers out there.

 

[Toshi38]

The bears aren't that much of a problem at least not in my experience I usually hike for at least a week in every summer and all we do is cook at decent distance from your tents and hang food up in a tree. As for the gas for your stoves you can buy that at MEC as people have mentioned the CO2 jackets you can just pull the c02 cartridge out and buy one here provided you know how to repack them. There is alot of places that you can rent a kayak so at the end of the day thats your call. The main thing to remember is to keep your camp clean and wash your dishes when your done with them never let them sit about... also make sure you wash them a good ways downstream so that you don't have bits of food near your tent from washing them. All the tide tables that you need are here: http://www.waterlevels.gc.ca/cgi-bi...language=english&region=1&zone=10&stnnum=7735 what I usually do is print out all the ones for the areas that I will be covering and cut and paste them onto one sheet then laminate it. Another thing are you flying into victoria or vancouver. Because if you fly into vancouver you can just take the shuttle bus to the ferry from the airport and then start getting rides from the ferry or use the bus. The greyhound only goes as far north as campbell river (roughly 3.5hrs drive from telegraph cove). For places to camp that really depends where you intend to kayak I should warn you that a lot of land in that area is Indian reserve and as such you will not be permitted to camp there without advance permission from the tribe who it belongs to. Another word of caution in that area there are alot of rocky outcrops instead of beaches although there are definatly some sand beaches just make sure you watch the tide line... it sucks to wake up in the tide. If your in the area I highly recommend going through Desolation Sound as it is really nice to kayak in.

 

[yotawheeler]

the other place i would look at for supplies ect would be here: Valhalla Pure Online its a smaller store but i think they have pretty good stuff....i bought a 80L back pack from them a few years back. good luck in your travels

 

[Toshi38]

ya valhalla is a great store but very pricy...

 

[wussyPup]

Hi Sönke, welcome to VI Cruisers.

Ocean River Sports is another outdoor shop in Victoria that can help set you up with gear, including charts. They also sell and rent kayaks, offer courses and lead tours. They are not inexpensive, but are knowledgeable and provide good products and service.

Another perspective to consider when deciding to bring your Feathercraft is safety; unless paddling with a larger group, it will be safer for the two of you in separate boats than together in one double. If you do bring your own boat, you should be experienced with wet exits and self-rescue in rough water.

The chance of seeing orcas draws a lot of people to Johnstone Strait; but seeing them is very much hit and miss when paddling. The commercial tour operators use high speed boats and have a network of spotters to track the orcas movements. Robson Bight, where the orcas gather to rub on the rocks, has a 1 Km exclusion zone where only authorized research watercraft are allowed. I've only paddled in Johnstone Strait once, and we didn't see any orcas although a pod had played for half an hour at our launch site the morning before. The weather was typical for summer, brisk wind and very choppy water. From a scenery perspective, Johnstone Strait is not near the top of my list of Island paddles.

To see orcas, a commercial tour almost guarantees a sighting. There are many operations like Prince of Whales in Victoria, or Jamie's Whaling Station in Tofino. From a scenery perspective, the Broken Islands in Barkley Sound are outstanding and accessible; you can paddle the more sheltered islands during the windy afternoons, visit the wild exposed coastlines during the relatively calm mornings, and after dark play with the bio-luminescence in sheltered lagoons. We've paddled with grey whales along the nearby Deer Group of Islands that have some awesome sea caves.

The Lady Rose would be a fun way to get into the Sound. In addition to Long Beach, the Carmanah Giant is worth visiting in that area.

Have fun planning your trip.

-Steve

 

[IronYuppy]

3 Vets in Vancouver is a great outdoor store and not as "trendy" (and therefore not as expensive) as Mountain Equip Co Op.

Have a fun trip. Bring us some LHD 70 series Troopies.

 

[soenke]

Thanks a lot for your comments, they are very helpful

I am glad to hear about suggestions where to go, where to paddle and where to buy the wine and other stuff!
Glad I can get the Co2 and gas for the cooker, I just don´t like messing around with the multi fuel burner ...

Another perspective to consider when deciding to bring your Feathercraft is safety; unless paddling with a larger group, it will be safer for the two of you in separate boats than together in one double. If you do bring your own boat, you should be experienced with wet exits and self-rescue in rough water.

We feel safer in our own boat, beeing used to it. We wear dry suits and sea-socks.... though f/g boats would probably be better landing with breakers on a rocky shore...And renting is less hassle
We used to travel with Klepper singles but changed to a double because I think a double is safer: you are faster, self-rescue is easy (not so elegant as a roll in a single..) if one of us is sick we still can move, ...and we reduce gear.

we are not very skilled paddlers, but we are tough so it´s better for us to use a vessel!

Thanks!

 

[Toshi38]

If you are not skilled paddlers you must have a guide in my opinion.... I have been in some rough spots out that way... and I was with a big group. Whats worse is if you loose all of your gear (I know its tied down and all but sometimes...) anyway with two crafts you have a better chance of rescue and also you have a better chance of at least having half your gear. On a side note if you do chose to travel on your own you should definatly purchase a UHF radio to summon help if you should need it.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

I am glad to hear about suggestions where to go, where to paddle and where to buy the wine and other stuff!

I have been to most if not all of the remote liquor stores on the coast...

I mentioned the water and liquor store because last summer a friend and I were out cruising around in his boat and met some kayakers from Alberta on Tent Island. We were sitting on the beach enjoying a beverage and they stopped to ask us if we had any water. They were used to the mountains and having water everywhere. They were on day 2 and out of water. We ran them to a local store on a near by island in our boat and they rewarded us with a 6 pack of beer and stocked up themselves for the night with water, beer and wine!

 

[soenke]

flyinglow, we are used to carry our drinking-water with us to be self-sufficient for a few days, travelling on saltwater...and I feel comfortable with large supplies of wine, rather in boxes/containers then in bottles in case of a rough landing and to reduce waste.. Still a map of the remote stores would be a great help in case of emergency!


Toschi, we like to explore on our own...so if a giude is not necessary for certain areas we rather go alone...
and I trie to avoid carrying gear tied down on deck, we just have a small deck-bag to reach camera, radio, gps, binoculars etc.

We are not very skilled but careful (always wear dry suits and life-vest, use the sea-socks and take GPS, charts, kompass, UHF Radio and (SAT)-Telephone, food and water supplies along ) and we have been paddeling for years under rough conditions at home in winter and in Greenland, Norway or Afrika...the Feathercraft even feels comfortable in high seas in a winterstorm on the baltic sea
so I am not so afraid about the paddeling
...it´s just the bears.. when we have to share a small camp
...and running out of wine

One advantage with the foldable would be to be able to travel to different locations by car and then explore the area for a few days. I can´t put a rented f/g on top of a rented car...

We wanted to stay all the time in Johnstone Strait but hearing about the other places Steve has recommended I think we have to move around
so if you suggest any more places where to go, we´ll be happy !

Have you tried the Garmin Blue Charts of that area, are they worth the money?

 

[Toshi38]

I have the garmin air charts for the area and they are very good.... I would imagine the sea ones would be of similar quality.

 

[soenke]

are you guys all flying? (flying low suggests this by name)

must be just fantastic in that landscape...

 

[FLYINGLOW]

are you guys all flying? (flying low suggests this by name)

must be just fantastic in that landscape...

I work for a helicopter company as a mechanic. And yes the coast is fantastic!

 

[Toshi38]

ya I was trying to dredge up some pictures but most of mine are mid/south island

 

[wussyPup]

we are used to carry our drinking-water with us to be self-sufficient for a few days

yes, you should plan on carrying all of your drinking water; a portable micro-filter is a good backup, but finding fresh water is not guaranteed. Giardia is not fun.

we like to explore on our own...so if a giude is not necessary for certain areas we rather go alone...

I understand - a guide is not necessary

We are not very skilled but careful (always wear dry suits and life-vest, use the sea-socks and take GPS, charts, kompass, UHF Radio and (SAT)-Telephone, food and water supplies along )

here, you will want a marine-band VHF, like ICOM handheld for marine weather, ship-ship, and Coast Guard

One advantage with the foldable would be to be able to travel to different locations by car and then explore the area for a few days. I can´t put a rented f/g on top of a rented car...

I understand - I always prefer to paddle my own boat too; unless I'm playing in the surf and then I want something shorter
For transporting rentals, foam carriers like these are very inexpensive

My sister and brother-in-law prefer them instead of the rack and cradle system I use. Here's a pic from a few years ago showing my sister's red van with foam carriers and our old Trooper with rack and carriers in Bamfield (after 76 Km of rough gravel road).

so if you suggest any more places where to go, we´ll be happy !

for a few days - Gabriola Island, along west coast of De Courcy Island, camp at Pirates Cove Park and Blackberry Point on Valdes Island; visit Whaleboat Island Park
expect winds and unpleasant water after 1:00 PM; calming by late afternoon

several days or more - Okeover Inlet to Desolation Sound; very pretty, and protected waters; popular cruising destination for sail and power boats
This can be combined with a circle car/ferry trip between Vancouver, Vancouver Island, Malaspina Peninsula, Sechelt Peninsula and back to Vancouver.

If you do this loop, be sure to visit the Sechelt Rapids at Skookumchuck Narrows - tidal currents that can exceed 30 km/h are great fun in a sea kayak; but you may get wet - ask my daughter how she knows this... The current carried us over a km before I could help her get back in her kayak.

several days or more - Deer Group and/or Broken Islands Group in Barkley Sound - my top pick

if open water does not scare you - consider Tofino - Hot Springs Cove; I haven't been there yet but want to

For the past dozen years, I've spent a week each summer fishing in Nootka Sound but haven't kayaked there yet; it is more remote than Barkley Sound with fewer camping spots and almost as scenic. Either drive the rough road to Tuta Marina or have the MV Uchuck III transport your kayaks from Gold River to avoid the less interesting (about 20 km) paddle down Muchalet Inlet. If you can handle the exposed coastline, the south west coast of Nootka Island is beautiful and I would be surprised if you didn't see grey whales and sea otters. A circumnavigation of Nootka Island would be quite an adventure (counter clockwise for a following sea on the outside) but 150 km may be too ambitious.

Have you tried the Garmin Blue Charts of that area, are they worth the money?

I've used Garmin Blue Charts; they're worthwhile when you're fishing and need to know sub-surface details, but for kayaking, Garmin's TOPO Canada is more than adequate; shows streams and coastlines; and is much less expensive.

g'luck, -Steve

 

[soenke]

great help ! Thanks a lot everyone

Steve, luckily I bought my VHF handheld in the UK, capable of the US marine frequencies. Katadynfilter is a good idea, may be we should buy a new one in BC, ours ist 20 years old, the heavy, metal one...
Is there a mobile telephon reception and would it make sense to buy a US mobile phone? Is there still prepaid phones available after all the anti terrorism efforts?

And Steve, do I get the foam carriers at the same adresses mentioned above? They look good, could use them back home on the cruiser as well

we are looking forward to the trip , I post again when we know the exact dates and details, may be some one will be in the same area at the time....

Seems as if we have to plan coming to BC more often