JD 175 14 hp Kaw Starting issue.

[wfd175]

I purchased a 1990 JD 175 Hydro Riding mower from craigslist. It had water in the fuel, I removed the tank, drained, flushed and refilled. It started right up, and I took off cutting the grass, no issues.

There was a piece of trash in the yard, so I decided to pick it up. I forgot to disengage the blades. The motor of course stopeed when I got off the seat.

I cannot for the life of me get it to restart.

I've check the carb, it all clear, I've checked for spark, all is fine. I even replaced the plug and ignitor, thinking I may have fouled it.

The carb is clear, it's getting fuel, but it will not restart. It just backfires after about 15 seconds of cranking.

What the heck went wrong. I did think that possibly the electronic fuel solenoid on the bottom of the bowl was stuck. So I put it on 12v and it was clicking but wasn't moving, I did some internet searching and decided to clip off the pin from the solenoid.

It still won't start. I didn't do a compression test with a gauge, but I can hold my finger on the plug hole and it doesn't blow it off. Should it be blowing my finger off when I don't press hard?

It acts like a timing issue, I did not replace the coil yet, because I had decent spark.

Any ideas what may have happened?

Remember, I'm getting good fuel, and have spark. The plug is not flooded (wet}.

Could I have blown the ignition module when it suddenly was forced to shut down?


Thanks,

 

[D'Animal]

There is a "brain box" in the wiring loom somewhere. The safety switches such as the PTO Engagement, Seat Pressure Switch, Neutral Safety Switch, clutch/Brake engagement switch all feed info to the brain box. If one of the circuits is open, it will not start. From there it gets into if you are mowing and get off the seat, it kills the engine. You should be able to put eveything in neutral/disengage, push the clutch pedal down and start it right back up.

Cutting off the tip of the fuel solenoid may/will lead to you carburetor flooding over. It will flood over when the temps swings. Instead of the tank vent on the fuel tank opening, the fuel will flow by the inlet needle and fill your crancase with gas.


With an Ohm meter, make sure your switches are actually opening and closing.

 

[wfd175]

Still confussed

If I engage the blade switch, it doesn't turn over, if I get off the seat it still turns over, if I don't push the foot pedal which forces the hydro level on the fender back to neutral it won't turn over. Could I have blown the brain box? The interlocks seem to be functioning. With the exception of the seat. I would think I wouldn't have any spark at all?

 

[D'Animal]

If it does all of that, it should start.

 

[wfd175]

Found the problem.

I took it apart tonight.

One of the valve seats popped out. Nothing damaged, it simply popped out. I was talking to the local lawn and garden shop today and they thought it may be a stuck valve. So I decided to pull the head off.

They said it would less than 100.00 to unstick if they had to pull the head.

I believe I can set the lash. But, I've never replaced a seat and valve, I dont' have the spring tool. I did find a complete PDf of the shop manual for the engine online for free.

It seems much less difficult than a front axle service, which I sucessfully completed a few times.

So if I can find the correct parts, I may give it a try. What are your thought? Is it difficult to find the correct fitting new parts.

 

[D'Animal]

Stake the valve seat in with a punch working around the outer edge several times.

You can get a valve lapping tool and compound at Napa for less than $10

 

[wfd175]

Got it done. I hope she holds.

I found a local shop that did it for $20. They pinged it in. The other valve as well.

Had I known it was $10 at Napa, I should have just grabbed the tool.
Not to save $10, but to get some experience. The shop said everything looked good. No nicks, etc...

I'll put her back on tonight after work. I'm sure it will be fine. Thanks for your help.