Ironman bumper installed this week. Minus the skid plates that go to it. Vendor sent the wrong ones so need them still.
My rig:
GX 470 2007
Dobinson 3” IMS Heavy springs
General notes:
- if anything go slow and measure like 5 times for each cut
-Do not cut anything till you set the bumper roughly where you want it to sit
-Floor jack helps a lot to support it. Did it alone and floor jack helped lift and push it forward
-Get door edging. Like previously posted..the ones that come with it are garbage
-Toss the hardware and get grade 8 hardware
-Oscillating tool cuts the fender like butter and helps a lot. Easier than the angle grinder
-Works kinda with the apex overland recovery points. Need to add another hole to allow use of the “U” bolt connection
-Bumper has lots of gaps in the under side to hide wiring. Works quite well with zip ties
-Total weight of the bumper and winch is about 175-200 lbs
-I marked a line on where the bumper bracket sits with the frame so I know where to line it up anytime I take it off
Bumper Side Fenders:
-Get a plastic pry tool to remove the outside fenders. It has some adhesive on the top edge so you need to pry a bit and release that too.
-Go slow and cut the inside metal first. ONLY after you have set the bumper close to where it needs to set
-With the bumper mounted template it with a spacer to draw a straight line. Do not cut this till the inner and bumper are set. This is the last step after everything is mounted
-Edge with car door edging for both the inner and outer fender to clean up your edge
-Leave a gap if you are going to off road at all. Body and bumper will flex a lot
Bumper Install:
-Floor jack is your best friend
-Keep some of the packaging on it if you want to protect it
-Template the hood to the bumper and don’t free hand cut it. Use a spacer similar to the fender
-Angle grinder worked great to cut the bumper top. -Go slow and take your time.
-Touch up with some paint and edge trimmings if you can
-Do not fully tighten bolt till you have it set where you want then tighten them down
-Make sure your hood clears the top tube before you set it. I set it fully up and in and found out the hard way
-Center your bracket as early as you can. This will be your last chance before you add the actual bumper.
-For me the bumper angles slightly down. To allow hood to clear. You may be able to level it if you are bending the hood slightly
-Wiring for the bumper went directly to the stock wiring for headlights and turn signals. I removed the round fog lights to allow the rigid industry ambers
Winch install:
-Badlands apex 12k fits just fine
-Bend the ac lines a bit back so it clears
-Add some fuel line to protect the tubing. I still need to do it and prevent rubbing
-Head/control box does well on top of the bumper. Need to drill 4 bolts to mount it
Probably more but this was just the initial brain dump. Thanks for reading though and happy to answer questions
My rig:
GX 470 2007
Dobinson 3” IMS Heavy springs
General notes:
- if anything go slow and measure like 5 times for each cut
-Do not cut anything till you set the bumper roughly where you want it to sit
-Floor jack helps a lot to support it. Did it alone and floor jack helped lift and push it forward
-Get door edging. Like previously posted..the ones that come with it are garbage
-Toss the hardware and get grade 8 hardware
-Oscillating tool cuts the fender like butter and helps a lot. Easier than the angle grinder
-Works kinda with the apex overland recovery points. Need to add another hole to allow use of the “U” bolt connection
-Bumper has lots of gaps in the under side to hide wiring. Works quite well with zip ties
-Total weight of the bumper and winch is about 175-200 lbs
-I marked a line on where the bumper bracket sits with the frame so I know where to line it up anytime I take it off
Bumper Side Fenders:
-Get a plastic pry tool to remove the outside fenders. It has some adhesive on the top edge so you need to pry a bit and release that too.
-Go slow and cut the inside metal first. ONLY after you have set the bumper close to where it needs to set
-With the bumper mounted template it with a spacer to draw a straight line. Do not cut this till the inner and bumper are set. This is the last step after everything is mounted
-Edge with car door edging for both the inner and outer fender to clean up your edge
-Leave a gap if you are going to off road at all. Body and bumper will flex a lot
Bumper Install:
-Floor jack is your best friend
-Keep some of the packaging on it if you want to protect it
-Template the hood to the bumper and don’t free hand cut it. Use a spacer similar to the fender
-Angle grinder worked great to cut the bumper top. -Go slow and take your time.
-Touch up with some paint and edge trimmings if you can
-Do not fully tighten bolt till you have it set where you want then tighten them down
-Make sure your hood clears the top tube before you set it. I set it fully up and in and found out the hard way
-Center your bracket as early as you can. This will be your last chance before you add the actual bumper.
-For me the bumper angles slightly down. To allow hood to clear. You may be able to level it if you are bending the hood slightly
-Wiring for the bumper went directly to the stock wiring for headlights and turn signals. I removed the round fog lights to allow the rigid industry ambers
Winch install:
-Badlands apex 12k fits just fine
-Bend the ac lines a bit back so it clears
-Add some fuel line to protect the tubing. I still need to do it and prevent rubbing
-Head/control box does well on top of the bumper. Need to drill 4 bolts to mount it
Probably more but this was just the initial brain dump. Thanks for reading though and happy to answer questions
