Interior Door Lock Handle Assembly

[RrCoX22]

Recently picked up my first 80 series (1994 FZJ) and the driver front door lock keeps sticking. I haven't taken the door panel off yet to inspect the cabling and latches but noticed that the front passenger side looks different so my assumption is someone incorrectly installed the wrong door lock tab/handle assembly as it's probably not the right size and keeps catching to not fully lock. Were the years '91-'92 different than the '93-'94? And '95-'97 different as well? I have no legit reference since mine are mismatching. Thanks for any help, pictures below...

Driver side:

Passenger side:

 

[davedave]

Are you saying this happens when operating them manually, or with the lock/unlock buttons?

If you’re using the buttons, what you’re describing is the behavior you’ll see when your door lock actuator motors are worn out. They won’t always have enough juice to fully move the lock, so that’s why they look like they’re “sticking”.

 

[RrCoX22]

Are you saying this happens when operating them manually, or with the lock/unlock buttons?

If you’re using the buttons, what you’re describing is the behavior you’ll see when your door lock actuator motors are worn out. They won’t always have enough juice to fully move the lock, so that’s why they look like they’re “sticking”.

Yes, that makes sense. Well I picked up a left rear interior door handle for $20 as I'd assume the assembly behind the panel would be similar, so will test that for now otherwise it looks like I will have a project. Window regulators are starting to go as well I think so probably will do everything at once on all 4 doors.

 

[JoeCova]

Yes, that makes sense. Well I picked up a left rear interior door handle for $20 as I'd assume the assembly behind the panel would be similar, so will test that for now otherwise it looks like I will have a project. Window regulators are starting to go as well I think so probably will do everything at once on all 4 doors.

If you are going deep into the doors. Get the door plastics and butyl. Might as well seal them all new when done.

 

[Malleus]

@RrCoX22 co
For 1st and 2nd gen (and the Jan '95):

for the third gen:

I haven't compared them, but I can tomorrow, I have a 1994, a Jan 1995 and a Jul 1995. The part number difference may be a vendor or color difference, in which case it would be moot. More to follow.

 

[davedave]

Yes, that makes sense. Well I picked up a left rear interior door handle for $20 as I'd assume the assembly behind the panel would be similar, so will test that for now otherwise it looks like I will have a project. Window regulators are starting to go as well I think so probably will do everything at once on all 4 doors.

Sounds like it's your door lock actuators. There are several threads on this, but here's a quick rundown:
- The actuators for front DS, front PS, and rear PS are all NLA. There are some aftermarket ones available, but I haven't used them.
- The actuators for rear DS and back hatch lock are the same part. The OEM Aisin is still available for 40ish bucks on rockauto.
- If the actuator doesn't work, the problem is either: the motor brushes are worn out/dirty (most likely). Replacement motors can be sourced for about 5$ piece, and the install isn't too bad -- just a little soldering. Additionally, the plastic arm inside the actuator casing is cracked, so the motor will spin but the arm won't grab onto the linkage. In this scenario, you'll here the motor work, but you won't see any movement. This can be fixed using epoxy.
- If you're in the door, definitely have some plastic sheet and butyl rope to replace any that you mess up. Also, I'd have some CLD sound damping sheets that you can stick on the outer door and inner door panel. Amazon Basics has good, cheap CLD sheets.
- If you have any signs of rust in bottom of door (inside or out), it wouldn't hurt to spray some fluid film in their while you have access. Get a can add Home Depot for $10. A little bit of prevention goes a long way. You'll be glad you did.