INTAKE ..Help ..... I've got pics

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 5, 2005
Threads
21
Messages
197
Location
Virginia Beach, VA
INTAKE ..Help ...

I am a novice mechanic and am changing my intake manifold gasket. When me and a friend removed the manifold we found a crack which seems to be normal for these trucks. From my friend's recommendation, I am going to have the crack sewn up by a machinist and throw that bad boy back on. Please let me know if this is a poor solution (keep in mind money is an issue).

***There was some oil residue in the intake ports on the head. Please let me know what this might be a symptom of and what direction I should go?

For some background I had a leak around the intake and it needed changing. The gasket was new when pulled, but had not been properly torqued down on one of the bolts which was obvious after the removal. My carb was also barely tighted down. I am the second owner and the truck was taken to Toyota religiously for the first 19 years of its existence.

Thanks in advance for you help! :cheers:
 
Last edited:
Kinda quiet, but I will update anyhow.

I am having a machine shop sew the crack. They are charging around $75 bucks to do it. They are also going to machine the manifold so that it is true again. I have to pull the exhaust manifold and get it done also. $90 to machine both manifolds.

Removal of the exhaust manifold seems like a tough task. It is pretty snug in there. Up until this point I have not had to move the power stearing pump. I think that might have to get done to get it done.

Where is the intake manifold tipically cracked?
 
Typical craks in the intake are directly bleow the carb.
 
so where did yours crack??
 
I am not special after all, the crack is right where you said. Right below the carb. I have a pic, but i have to shrink it when I get home from work. I will post it when its done.

What about the oil in the ports? I was told that is should be cool, but is that also typical of the 2F? I will upload a pic of it too later.
 
Why did you take the intake manifold out seperate from the exhaust manifold? When I did it, I took it all out in one piece. I then put the new set back in in one piece as well. The same bolts hold both in place, so I would think that taking both out seperately would be more difficult.

BTW, I just did a big writeup of my "fun" manifold changing experience. Search "Changing Manifolds on the 2F" and find the thread with the biggest starting post. All your info is there.

:beer:
 
Well..... for $90 thats not to bad to get everything fixed. But i think you would have been fine just getting new gasket and tightening everything properly. As for oil, i wouldnt really worry about it. But im not a mechanic and dont claim to be so i could be wrong! :doh:
 
If he knows that his manifold is warped and he has it all apart, then he should get it trued up. If it is already warped, then it will only get worse.

FJ60-Hokie, you did the right thing. Did you find my write-up?

:beer:
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Did you find my write-up?

:beer:


i searched for your writed up and did not find a thing. dissapointing as i am about to dive into this "adventure" i dont think i've seen a more difficult manifold to remove before. so im taking me sweet time.
 
If you are going to have both manifolds decked and made true, you might want to ask the machine shop to do them at the same time. They can braze the manifolds together, then deck them simultaneously. It will make the fit up on the head a bit more true. In essence you won't be overtightening one manifold, to get the other cinched down.

Also...sounds like you need some PB blaster to loosen up some bolts...or a breaker bar. Just be careful you don't snap a bolt.....
 
andrew7elk said:
Well..... for $90 thats not to bad to get everything fixed. But i think you would have been fine just getting new gasket and tightening everything properly. As for oil, i wouldnt really worry about it. But im not a mechanic and dont claim to be so i could be wrong! :doh:

Whatever you do, don't do this. If it is cracked, you need tohave it repaired properly by a qualified shop. This is includes preheating the intake manifold before welding. Question your machine shop guy and find out what he plans on doing before you let him touch it. Once you assemble the manifolds back together and install them along with carb and emissions junk, you are not going to want to take it all off again, so do it right the first time. I'd suggest looking around for a matched set of manifolds that are not cracked or previously repaired and have a machine shop clean them up and plane them. Have yours repaired and keep as a spare.

The most important thing here is why did the intake manifold crack. Probably because your heat riser flapper on the exhaust manifold stopped working. You need to find out if it is working correctly before you install the new or repaired manifold so you dont get another crack. Pull off the exhaust manifold and check it. If it does not move freely or if the bimetal spring wont open the valve when heated up, you need to either permanently fix it open or get a new exhaust manifold.

good luck.
 
I will check out the recommended forum. My original intention of this thread was to put a bunch of pics on, but I am still figuring out my new camera and the software.

I hope to have the exhaust manifold out this evening. I am having the both of them trued this week.

I will try and post some pics this evening.

Has anyone used copper washers on the manifold to make sure the manifolds are good and snugg when reinstalled? My dad has jerry rigging tendencies and this was his recommendation.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
Back
Top Bottom