Hey, I'm looking for some help. I bought a 98 about 3 weeks ago with a dead factory radio. Purchased an aftermarket and began installing it last night. I got in the truck tonight and my instrument panel wouldn't illuminate. The air conditioning was still back-lit, and my gas gauge read empty now, with the gas light on (I had over half a tank.). Got it back home and checked fuse and it was good. I pulled the instrument panel out thinking wires had jarred loose and put it back together with everything plugged back in. Cranked the truck and none of the instrument panel functions now; RPMs at zero, oil pressure, odometer all off. It got late and I was frustrated so I left it. The truck will run. If anyone has an idea I'd love to hear it. Thanks
Instrument Panel
- Thread starter DeltaOne
- Start date
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there's not enough info to help with specifics, here are some generic tips (sorry if it's so elementary); also, a volt-ohmmeter or 12VDC lighted probe are both handy for this:
- check to ensure you've re-connected all factory electrical connectors
- verify that all grounding lugs are secured to their original locations
> any new grounding wires should be tied into these OEM chassis ground locations as well
- check *all* fuses... consider verifying fuse continuity with the Ohmmeter
- if you've spliced into a factory circuit...
> make sure the splicing (or solder) shows continuity
> make sure it's the correct circuit
> make sure the circuit is rated to handle the additional current demand (start-up, or "in-rush" current tends to blow fuses first)
- make sure there are no damaged wires
> nothing got pinched or squeezed during re-assembly
> wire insulation wasn't nicked... conductors weren't broken or compromised
the risk of having electrical problems is usually proportional to how invasive the surgery was
hope this helps
- check to ensure you've re-connected all factory electrical connectors
- verify that all grounding lugs are secured to their original locations
> any new grounding wires should be tied into these OEM chassis ground locations as well
- check *all* fuses... consider verifying fuse continuity with the Ohmmeter
- if you've spliced into a factory circuit...
> make sure the splicing (or solder) shows continuity
> make sure it's the correct circuit
> make sure the circuit is rated to handle the additional current demand (start-up, or "in-rush" current tends to blow fuses first)
- make sure there are no damaged wires
> nothing got pinched or squeezed during re-assembly
> wire insulation wasn't nicked... conductors weren't broken or compromised
the risk of having electrical problems is usually proportional to how invasive the surgery was
hope this helps
