Installing OME Rear Springs

[OGBeno]

Hey folks:

Working on a customer's URJ200 and I will be installing rear OME springs.

Do we have a definitive answer on what to do with the KDSS system on install?

I was thinking of just unbolting the sway bar from the axle to get it to droop once up on stands and popping the old springs out and installing the new ones.

Will I be ok doing it this way or does the KDSS system need to be "de-valved" as I am calling it (i.e., do I need to lessen the hydraulic pressure in the system)?

It seems just disconnecting the sway from the axle housing will take care of the droop needed to install the new springs.

Any experience with this? Thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks.
-onur

 

[Billfish]

Hi Beno. This info may be useful

Follow this link:

To remove rear springs:

GSIC - Global Service Information Center


and to reinstall:

http://http://toyota.esealtd.com/toyota/lc_grj200/repair2/html/frame_rm000003bz8002x.html



The idea is not to "lessen the pressure" in the system. What you are allowing by opening the valves slightly (exactly as described) is to allow fluid to circulate freely within the system. If you allow any fluid to escape you will need to re-pressurize the system with Toyotas proprietary KDSS equipment: think $$$$$. Be careful.
After install of springs you simple need to perform the KDSS rebalancing procedure to correct any side to side bias. The rebalancing procedure is included at end in instructions I think but simply involves allowing the car to settle with its full weight on a flat surface. Open the valves slightly, allow fluid across system to level then shut off valves once happy with level.

Link for Vehicle tilt calibration: GSIC - Global Service Information Center

 

[OGBeno]

Hi Beno. Surely as a Toyota franchise you have access to this information???

Follow this link:

To remove rear springs:

GSIC - Global Service Information Center


and to reinstall:

http://http://toyota.esealtd.com/toyota/lc_grj200/repair2/html/frame_rm000003bz8002x.html



The idea is not to "lessen the pressure" in the system. What you are allowing by opening the valves slightly (exactly as described) is to allow fluid to circulate freely within the system. If you allow any fluid to escape you will need to re-pressurize the system with Toyotas proprietary KDSS equipment: think $$$$$. Be careful.
After install of springs you simple need to perform the KDSS rebalancing procedure to correct any side to side bias. The rebalancing procedure is included at end in instructions I think but simply involves allowing the car to settle with its full weight on a flat surface. Open the valves slightly, allow fluid across system to level then shut off valves once happy with level.

Link for Vehicle tilt calibration: GSIC - Global Service Information Center

Indeed I do have access to Toyota technical information.

I wanted some first hand experience...i.e., someone who has personally done this work.

Thanks for your information. Very good.

 

[OGBeno]

Just to update this thread.

Installed the rear springs today.

A few observations:

1. Definitely loosen bolt 5mm allen fittings on the KDSS actuator. I did a bit more than 3 revolutions and everything went fine.

2. I loosened the shock not from the bottom, but from the top (these were on ICON aftermarket, high-end shocks). I slipped in a long 19mm flexhead, ratcheting wrench in the space between the body and the frame and took off the top bushing. Then, using the floorjack, lowered the axle housing. It still wasn't enough room to pull the spring, so I took the Toyota bottle jack and put it between the axle and frame lowering the axle housing enough to pull the old spring and install the new spring. I also took the floor jack and put it on the other side of the axle housing and jacked up to get more room. I used this method on both sides.

3. I did detach the swaybar at the axle housing. This way a good move to get more articulation.

4. I did remove the brake lines from the bracketry on the axle housing and this gave me a level of comfort with the soft brake lines. I also detached the axle breather from the axle housing so as to not stretch out the hose.

5. I tightened the KDSS valves *before* lowering the rig.

6. The rig was totally level side-to-side and did not need to be leveled out with an OEM 10mm spacer which I ordered from Toyota just in case.

Anyway, total hours (first time ever wrenching on a URJ200) for the rear spring R & R: 4 hrs. (Not including taking tires off, jacking rig up, putting tires on, etc)

Most of the time I spent was underneath the rig staring at all of the different lines and systems installed on this rig. It's a lot easier building and working on this rig at the factory than on my concrete pad here in NM!

 

[Billfish]

Cheers Beno. Taking mine out tomorrow to fit coil-rite air bags so I'll follow your method. How close to even was the side to side rebalance afterwards?

Bill

 

[OGBeno]

Cheers Beno. Taking mine out tomorrow to fit coil-rite air bags so I'll follow your method. How close to even was the side to side rebalance afterwards?

Bill

Hi Bill:

I'd say less than 10mm side-to-side.

Now the springs will settle in a bit during the first 500-1000 miles. I told my customer to contact me if he wanted me to add a 10mm spacer after things settled into place.

Good luck with the work. If you need any assistance, feel free to PM me, as ill be at work tomorrow monitoring MUD.

 

[Billfish]

Beno I did much same method as you (ditto on sway bar) however I did follow the instructions to the letter re KDSS and lowered the rig to the floor, allowed it to settle then bounced it around to try and get it level before tightening valves. - I fitted front coilovers and UCA's as well so KDSS was right out of whack.

Bugger!

Maybe I should try it your way and tighten the valves with the truck up on hoist as I cannot get it within 20mm at rear.

Tomorrow I'll try again and leave it to settle for a while with system open. If not I'll try your way.

 

[OGBeno]

Beno I did much same method as you (ditto on sway bar) however I did follow the instructions to the letter re KDSS and lowered the rig to the floor, allowed it to settle then bounced it around to try and get it level before tightening valves. - I fitted front coilovers and UCA's as well so KDSS was right out of whack.

Bugger!

Maybe I should try it your way and tighten the valves with the truck up on hoist as I cannot get it within 20mm at rear.

Tomorrow I'll try again and leave it to settle for a while with system open. If not I'll try your way.

Any luck Bill on leveling the rear? I think the key is to retighten the valves before lowering the rig.

I haven't heard any complaints from my customer so far.

Regards.
-onur

 

[Billfish]

Gidday Beno. Yeah mate finally solved the lean after many futile attempts without appreciable improvement. i.e: on the level, on its own weight, valves opened precisely 3 turns. Rocked the bejasus of it. Had 4 big guys stand on the port Slee slider (try that on a stock side step I dare you) and hanging way back out on the roof rail.

Still no joy.

Then, at the insistence of my youngest son I tied something different.

I sat it on the ground, opened the valves, jacked up the middle point of the starboard chassis rail until 20mm past side-to-side level and left it there before tightening the valves. Then let the trolley jack down.

Result? Perfect. (within 5mm side to side)

Question: If it is really that simple why doesn't Toyota suggest this as the method rather than as per their service manual method.

After two days running its still bang on.

The boy is still grinning. Free Burger King for a year for that boy!

 

[OGBeno]

The boy is still grinning. Free Burger King for a year for that boy!

Well, I think closing the valves before bringing the rig back down on its own weight is the key to getting a side-to-side level stance.

Congrats on the lift. Enjoy the ride sir!

 

[THEROK]

Per Ironman, and I had my shop do this recently on my lift install, the correct method is to open the valves three turns in the air. Do the suspension install. Drop the car on its own weight to let it settle. Then close the KDSS valves.

My rig is perfectly even side to side.