Inchworm Left Question

[NET4R2004]

Inchworm Lefty Question

Has anyone installed an Inchworm or Marlin Left transfer case on a 3rd/4th Gen 4Runner of FJ Cruiser. The actuator on my stock transfer case kicked the bucket and the part runs for $1100 with a $1000 install cost. Basically the tcase has to come out and be taken apart to get the actuator out. This leads me to my dilema.

I can purchase a Lefty Tcase for $2000 and with the help of a friend install it.

I'm looking for some feedback, words of caution, basically any information to prep me for this task.

 

[Leaping Deer]

What are your running for tires. Do you really need a 4.7 case with the 4.88's?

I'm assuming that you have a button or a dial on your dash to switch to 4wd. You will have to cut a hole through your floor to install the shifter.

 

[NET4R2004]

I really don't need the 4.7 gearing. I have a choice between giving the dealer $2100 to replace my lousy Tcase actuator or take the whole thing out and install a marlin or inchworm. I have no problem cutting a whole in the floor for the new lever and saying bye bye to the knob. I also know I will need to install a switch to engage the front hubs (which I'm ok with). I have one theory with my truck. When something breaks repair or replace it with something stonger and better. I'm just not sure how the VSC, ATRAC and Downhill Assist systems will be affected.

PS - This whole situation was a result of me pressure washing under the truck after a run (STUPID MOVE!!). The water worked it's way in and ruined the sensor as well as a ECU. I'm already into the dealer for $1200 because it took forever to pin out the system and find the problem..

 

[NET4R2004]

I know... It's a tough choice.. It soundslike the Tcase has to be split in half to remove the old unit. The part is $1000. I feel like I'm spending $1000 on a tcase with 100K on it. With the lefty I would be removing some of the electronics which lead me down this road. My plans are to keep wheeling with the truck and eventually get a better daily driver.

So to lose the locking center diff and auto locking hubs is not a problem with me. I like old school. Give me a simple lever and you can counbt on it everytime. Right now my trucks stuck in 4Lo and not drivable.

Decisions, decisions???

 

[landtank]

I doubt very much that a little water caused all this damage. The ECUs are usually nothing more than relays. I'd bet the farm it's a simple fix that they aren't competent in making.

Good Luck with the truck

 

[NET4R2004]

Yeah.. I told the dealer ship to stop and put it back together. I'll get it home in 4Lo and reasses the situation. Keep in mind I did get up close and personal with my gas powered proessure washer. The next day I had failures on all the whee speed sensors and it would not go into 4WD at all. That's all fixed, except for the bad actuator. I feel a little better once I can assess the situation myself.

 

[landtank]

water aside you are talking about a 12v circuit. I don't know the amp draw on that actuator but on the 80s they can be run off a 9v battery, so pretty low. The only worry would be if the tech jumped 12v directly to the actuator motor and over drove it to the point of breaking something.

 

[NET4R2004]

Kind of sucks.. I'm sure if I even suggested that the tech may have had a hand in breaking the actuator, they would never own up to it. I have to say at this point looking at a $1200 I do not feel comfortable with the dealer. I'm in that area between a rock and a hard place.. LOL

I'm still up for the lefty so I can simplify the truck and make it more reliable in future. Mmmm...

 

[1911]

Has anyone installed an Inchworm or Marlin Left transfer case on a 3rd/4th Gen 4Runner of FJ Cruiser.

Yes, I have.

The actuator on my stock transfer case kicked the bucket and the part runs for $1100 with a $1000 install cost.

Someone is blowing smoke up your ass, there are no actuators in or on a VF2A or VF4B transfer case. The only actuator is on the front diff of auto tranny models, and it is a $300 part that takes maybe an hour to replace if you're really slow.

I'm looking for some feedback, words of caution, basically any information to prep me for this task.

I have a pretty complete write-up on Lefty installation over on the blue forum, with photos and everything: INCHWORM "LEFTY" T-CASE: Inst. w/ pics - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

 

[landtank]

I've been assuming that the reference to the actuator was the unit that shifts from low to hi. Are you stuck in one of those modes?

My wife just home and I'll crawl under to see what's up, her's is a 2003, V8, AWD, should be the same.

 

[1911]

I've been assuming that the reference to the actuator was the unit that shifts from low to hi.

OK, I think I see the problem, he's got an '04 4Runner, and probably doesn't have a VF2A or VF4B transfer case; these later cases have a manual shift lever to shift from 4-high to 4-low.

 

[NET4R2004]

Yes. That's exactly it. I have a knob I turn to go from 2hi 4hi, 4lo etc. I'm stuck in 4lo. If you lokk on the side of the tcase, you'll see a block box. That's the motor/actuator that went bad.

 

[NET4R2004]

Yes, I have.

I have a pretty complete write-up on Lefty installation over on the blue forum, with photos and everything: INCHWORM "LEFTY" T-CASE: Inst. w/ pics - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

How did you rewire your ATRAC and VSC back in or were those not affected by the Lefty. I alsop have a Torson Locking Center Diff that will go away. I'm just trying to get a better idea on how those systems are going to be affected and what may be required to get them working with the Lefty.

 

[landtank]

I went out and checked my wife's truck and it would seem that there is actually two actuators in that unit that need to work in unison to operate the shift forks.

I still think this is a low dollar fix for someone who has a grasp on what is going on. I'm sure that excludes any dealers in the area.

 

[NET4R2004]

Thanks Landtank. The actuator in the front diff works fine. That stupid black box were the motor is cannot be removed with dropping and splitting the Tcase. Is there a way I can get around that?

 

[landtank]

Thanks Landtank. The actuator in the front diff works fine. That stupid black box were the motor is cannot be removed with dropping and splitting the Tcase. Is there a way I can get around that?

I'm calling them actuators but there are two shift forks that are operated by that black box. They work together to shift the t-case from hi to lo. Like I said earlier the dealer is just shot gunning the whole assembly and not really identifying the single failure.

I still haven't found the FSM to my wife's 4Runner since you were re-gearing the diffs, I need to get on that!

 

[NET4R2004]

I'm calling them actuators but there are two shift forks that are operated by that black box. They work together to shift the t-case from hi to lo. Like I said earlier the dealer is just shot gunning the whole assembly and not really identifying the single failure.

I still haven't found the FSM to my wife's 4Runner since you were re-gearing the diffs, I need to get on that!

I'm still laughing at the fact they want $1100 for the motor/actuator. What a rip-off. LOL. I'm a diehard Toyota fan, but I'll call a flag on this play. What a weak design. I have found several others on the 4Runner forum that have suffered the same fate. Seems like when they brought their truck to local mechanics, none of them wanted to touch it.

 

[NET4R2004]

Here's a link to the FSM.

Index of /4runner/215/NCF

I also found a few usefull documents. Thoughts??

 

[landtank]

Steve that helps, so one shift fork locks the center diff and the other shifts it to low or Hi. I still believe it's a relay based controller since that is the most fail safe design in these types of circuits.

Diagnosing this type of circuit will be beyond most any dealer technician unfortunately as it's analog based and kind of old school.

 

[NET4R2004]

Ok.. So lets say I go the tough route with a left and cut a hole in my floor and install a ADD switch. Can I maintain use of the ATRAC, Downhill assist and VSC? I understand the LSD center diff will go away.