In need of axle shims

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 22, 2010
Threads
4
Messages
23
Location
Helena, Montana
title says all. maybe 5deg (not sure) I will probably order some up this weekend, but if someone has some around helena they want to get rid of let me know. Thanks for the help
 
check with Ryan out at rocky mountain fab/ radiator shop heading out of town by the red roof cafe.

he may have something

5 degrees seems like alot???
 
He is always my first stop for cruiser parts and ?s. Maybe I will start smaller then 5 degrees then. I know I don't need much
 
He is always my first stop for cruiser parts and ?s. Maybe I will start smaller then 5 degrees then. I know I don't need much

just in case he sends you my way, I don't have any shims.

next is what are you doing? and why do you think you need shims?
Paul
 
I put a 4 inch lift on my cruiser, plus about an inch more in rear with shackles to level it out a little more. I gained a bad driveline vibration that went away when the rear driveline is pulled. In the process of the lift my rear drive shaft came apart and without thinking about it I pulled it and then put it back together and now it might not be balanced. I will rebalance the drive shaft and see if that helps but im thinking i might need shims. Its not of much but it is off.
 
Measure the caster with a level gauge place it on top of the knuckle studs if it's plus 3 or so check that the flange off the transfer case is parallel to the diff flange, what ever correction you need at the pinion to get them parallel is the amount of shim you need to get rid of the drive line vibration, clear as mud i know, cheers, Larry

BTW I use 4 degree on my latest build, no vibration 3 degrees positive caster,
 
I put a 4 inch lift on my cruiser, plus about an inch more in rear with shackles to level it out a little more. I gained a bad driveline vibration that went away when the rear driveline is pulled. In the process of the lift my rear drive shaft came apart and without thinking about it I pulled it and then put it back together and now it might not be balanced. I will rebalance the drive shaft and see if that helps but im thinking i might need shims. Its not of much but it is off.

my # 227-5794 I'm out near Warren school.

you need to keep the e brake drum face and the rear axle pinion parrallel, unless you use a cv type end on 1 side.
when putting the driveshaft back together, you just need to line the yokes the up the same. + to + not + to X
4" lift plus a shackle lift, you may need to lengthen the rear shaft
vibration could also be diff input bearing
or rear output on the transfer case
U bolts retorqued?
maybe a bad or dry cup in one of the u joints
does it only happen in 2wd? hubs not locked
might be other issue that the lift made worse.
Paul
 
thanks for all the help...
all the ujoints seem good
the vibration happens in 2wd 4wd, and only after about 25mph-50mph, completly goes away when i remove the rear drive shaft and drive around in 4wd.
to 3puppies- the driveshaft is aftermarket and the splines can go together any way. not sure what +to+not+to X means. If your going to be around this weekend maybe I can give you a call. Thanks again
 
Measure the caster with a level gauge place it on top of the knuckle studs if it's plus 3 or so check that the flange off the transfer case is parallel to the diff flange, what ever correction you need at the pinion to get them parallel is the amount of shim you need to get rid of the drive line vibration, clear as mud i know, cheers, Larry

BTW I use 4 degree on my latest build, no vibration 3 degrees positive caster,

Larry, he's talking about the rear axle. nothing about the front. Paul

thanks for all the help...
all the ujoints seem good
the vibration happens in 2wd 4wd, and only after about 25mph-50mph, completly goes away when i remove the rear drive shaft and drive around in 4wd.
to 3puppies- the driveshaft is aftermarket and the splines can go together any way. not sure what +to+not+to X means. If your going to be around this weekend maybe I can give you a call. Thanks again

all driveshafts can go together in a variety of ways with the splines. if the driveshaft is out and on the ground, both u-joints and yokes should be pointed/facing the same direction + - +. make sence?
I'll be around most of the weekend, leave a message if I'm not around. also around rest of this week.
Paul
 
HA! just figured out that its a picture of a driveline +-+. Im an idiot sometimes. that fixed 95% of my problem (would turning it 180 deg make it better, worse or the same?) going to go ahead and order shims 2deg and go from there. Once again thanks for help. this website is awsome. Garrett
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom