Just a little bit of improvements to the rats nest I started with.
Originally I just left my winch disconnected at the battery to guard against fire risk and I had four fuse taps in various places powering various things. Worked well enough but with time I would forget what fuse taps were on what so decided to address it all.
Used a scrap piece of aluminum and two points left from the factory plastics to make a little plate that could hold the blue sea cutoff switch and fuse block.
Used a scrap piece of plastic between two factory bolt holes that were uncovered by removing stickers to mount the three relays to the two holes.
The fuse panel is powered by a 80A relay triggered off the one fuse tap I had to keep.
The USB charger is just a cheap 12v charger stuck up in my dash, it's just for my ACR Bivy Stick that I take hunting or longer trips, I don't keep the subscription all year to cut cost.
The locker is a factory 8.2 locked axle with a harness to make it work off of the 80 series factory rotary switch, I also have a CH4x4 switch that runs a relay that passes power to the factory switch. This is because there is absolutely nothing preventing the locker from actuating at speed if someone turns the dial. The switch serves as both another lockout, and as a visual indicator via the light when the locker is fully engaged.
My driving lights are a pair of Hella 350 LED light bars. I used these because in my jurisdiction most light bars must be covered, but these are certified driving lights. Technically they must be wired to only work with high beams here too, so I tapped the high beam circuit for a negative trigger 30A relay. I then used that relay to positively power another 30A relay, and that relay is controlled by another CH4x4 switch. The extra relay was required to make the LED work in the switch to show when the driving lights are on, due to the LED's having polarity. Frankly now that I have LED projector retrofits the driving lights do almost nothing additional, but they are mounted pretty permanently and I think they look good.
The KDSS is a defeat for the KDSS so it can unlock at any speed. This has been detailed elsewhere here but works like a charm and is also controlled by a CH4x4 switch.
Eventually I want to find some battery terminals that have covers, and probably redo the battery-alternator wiring to make sure there is no strain on the cables. It's a Group 31 AGM marine battery, and the marine bolts have came in handy so far.
Originally I just left my winch disconnected at the battery to guard against fire risk and I had four fuse taps in various places powering various things. Worked well enough but with time I would forget what fuse taps were on what so decided to address it all.
Used a scrap piece of aluminum and two points left from the factory plastics to make a little plate that could hold the blue sea cutoff switch and fuse block.
Used a scrap piece of plastic between two factory bolt holes that were uncovered by removing stickers to mount the three relays to the two holes.
The fuse panel is powered by a 80A relay triggered off the one fuse tap I had to keep.
The USB charger is just a cheap 12v charger stuck up in my dash, it's just for my ACR Bivy Stick that I take hunting or longer trips, I don't keep the subscription all year to cut cost.
The locker is a factory 8.2 locked axle with a harness to make it work off of the 80 series factory rotary switch, I also have a CH4x4 switch that runs a relay that passes power to the factory switch. This is because there is absolutely nothing preventing the locker from actuating at speed if someone turns the dial. The switch serves as both another lockout, and as a visual indicator via the light when the locker is fully engaged.
My driving lights are a pair of Hella 350 LED light bars. I used these because in my jurisdiction most light bars must be covered, but these are certified driving lights. Technically they must be wired to only work with high beams here too, so I tapped the high beam circuit for a negative trigger 30A relay. I then used that relay to positively power another 30A relay, and that relay is controlled by another CH4x4 switch. The extra relay was required to make the LED work in the switch to show when the driving lights are on, due to the LED's having polarity. Frankly now that I have LED projector retrofits the driving lights do almost nothing additional, but they are mounted pretty permanently and I think they look good.
The KDSS is a defeat for the KDSS so it can unlock at any speed. This has been detailed elsewhere here but works like a charm and is also controlled by a CH4x4 switch.
Eventually I want to find some battery terminals that have covers, and probably redo the battery-alternator wiring to make sure there is no strain on the cables. It's a Group 31 AGM marine battery, and the marine bolts have came in handy so far.
