Ideas???

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Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Threads
7
Messages
144
Location
Charlotte, N.C.
Well I bought a FJ40 a month or so ago and have been working out the kinks and fixing things on it. Was driving it last week and the motor started knocking and we all know were the story goes from here. I bought the 40 on here from a guy in Kansas and I have to say that is the last time I do that. So just talked to my mechanic and he said the engine needs to be rebuilt. It is a 350 and the obvious thing to do is buy a 350 and drop it back in. I am looking for suggestions on 350 and a diesel swap. Cost of a diesel swap and what all I will need to make it work. Does anybody make turn key conversion? It currently has TH350 which I am open to changing that. Either upgrading or going back to a manual. Looking for ideas and thoughts.

Thanks
 
Since it already has a SBC in it a 6.2 or mechanically injected gm diesel should bolt up to the trans and even use the same Motor mounts. Would be an incredibly easy swap.

Only question is it a efi 350 or a carb??
 
As you stated, the easy route would be to either rebuild the motor you have or to replace it with a similar model. Easy also means cheapest route as well.

Past that, there are a number or paths that you can take. I am an advocate of the GM LSX platform as their level of performance and aftermarket support is better than any other platform out there.

The LSX platform can use the trans that you have or you can move to a computer controlled trans such as a 4L60E or 4L80E and an adapter to what I am assuming is a stock t-case.

Give me a call if you like and we can talk about it.

Stan
864-590-0051
 
It is EFI


If you want to stay gas then the cheapest option would be to rebuild or use the same motor.

Which one is it?? TBI, TPI, early vortec or an LSX style vortec.

If you want to rip out the EFI and go simple with a diesel it would still most likely be cheaper to go to a GM style diesel as they are all over and dirt cheap. Not having to change the trans or the motor mounts and no electronics greatly help with that.
 
Al, the GM 6.2 Diesels are all over and cheap for a reason, they were originally built for fuel economy, not for power. The aftermarket for them is slim as well. They were great motors for their intended purpose but failed in the towing/torque department. Like any other motor they also had their own specific issues and they are also a heavy power plant even when compared to a basic SBC.
 
An early 5.7L Vortec ('96-'99) would be almost a direct bolt in swap.

I would go with an LSx engine if you choose to swap/upgrade. You can find complete 5.3L engines cheap, and 6.0s aren't that expensive either. You can build power cheap in an LSx. But you would have to use a flexplate spacer to mate it to the TH350, and change your motor mounts.
 
Al, the GM 6.2 Diesels are all over and cheap for a reason, they were originally built for fuel economy, not for power. The aftermarket for them is slim as well. They were great motors for their intended purpose but failed in the towing/torque department. Like any other motor they also had their own specific issues and they are also a heavy power plant even when compared to a basic SBC.

Wasn't really looking for an argument just stating simple facts when Justus had brought up a diesel conversion in his original post.

Is a 6.2/6.5 anything like a cummins..... no in no way. A cummins is a much more heavily built.

but can't be beat when you consider you can get a turbo'd mechanically injected diesel for dirt cheap.
I'd be able to live with a 40 with:
Power / Torque (highest): 315 hp (235 kW) @ 3,200 rpm / 530 lb·ft (719 N·m) @ 1,800 rpm
now the mechanically injected one would be less than that but that still isn't bad.

weighs in around 700lbs not too much more than the original 2F motor. Hence why it isn't as heavy duty as a other diesel motors. But yes they are heavier than a 350.
This are very popular diesel swap option in many other parts of the world due to the cheapness and availability of parts. It is the number 1 diesel swap for petrol 80's in Oz for 80's even though they have diesel 80's. Due to parts and cheapness.

Specific issues to this motor are failed harmonic balancers that can be rectified with a fluid damper. Other issues are some of the older blocks had high, 30%, of main web cracks. easy to check before buying and if they don't have them by now they most likely aren't going to get them.

There are of course other diesel options but they would require other adapters and motor mounts.




I'm not in anyway saying this is a better option than an LSX or vice versa.

Stating an easy diesel swap since the OP asked for one as one of the options.


And with that i'll bow out of this thread as all relevant options have already been stated and now it is up to Justus to make his choice on it.


One last thing is it depends what Justus plans on doing with the rig. If it is for pure offroad ability over everything else then i'd say an LSX is the ticket due the lightness of it.

For road going the MPG would most likely have more of an impact on choice. For gas engines a LSX with cylinder deactivation would get the best but cost a bit for motor and stand alone computer as your current one wouldn't work and need different motor mounts

As for the diesel, not sure what it would get in a lightweight vehicle like a 40. In my suburban the underpowered NA 6.2 has gotten me 21 on the highway.

The biggest hindrance for MPG would be the 3speed auto.
 
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If it has a TH350 the knocking sound can be a cracked flexplate (automatic trans flywheel) in front of the torque converter - have had that problem myself - TWICE. Tore down a perfectly good Corvette motor then found the cracked flexplate when re-assembling it.

The cheapest solution if you do have a rod knock would be to buy a GM Goodwrench motor, what used to be called a Target Master - GM's cheap replacement motor, brand new and Hecho in Mexico . There are mail order places that sell them cheap. Scoggin-Dickey GM is one that comes to mind. Jegs and Summit might sell them now.

Try pulling the plugs one a time and see if the knock get quieter. If it does not then it may be a cracked flex plate. You can pull in the inspection cover and see the crack. They are only like sixty bucks but a pain to install!
 
No argument here Al, just a different opinion.

In the end the real factor if $ is the issue is dollars per mile. Replacing or rebuilding the 350 (if that is the issue) with the same will by far be the cheapest route.
 
If you want to stay gas then the cheapest option would be to rebuild or use the same motor.

Which one is it?? TBI, TPI, early vortec or an LSX style vortec.

If you want to rip out the EFI and go simple with a diesel it would still most likely be cheaper to go to a GM style diesel as they are all over and dirt cheap. Not having to change the trans or the motor mounts and no electronics greatly help with that.

It is a TBI (I think Howell) I think the block is a late 70's. I was told it was just rebuilt.
 
Just rebuild don't mean jack...

Generally speaking, if something is new or rebuilt it's going to go through a normal life cycle for that part/assembly or it's going fail right out of the box or soon there after. This applies to both mechanical and electronic components under normal use.

Buy a crate motor and put it in yourself. Small Block Chevy is as easy at it gets and about as cheap as it gets. I'm not a huge fan of a TH350 in a Land Cruiser with a AA adapter. Makes for a short rear driveshaft. Swap in a SM465 and get an adapter for the transfercase.

I've seen a truck that had a 350, SM654, NP205 (awesome case) and a centered rear from a mini truck. You can also get a centered Land Cruiser axle custom made with mini truck shafts.

To keep it simple, if your happy with the TH350 - just get a motor.
 
update

as far checking the trans flywheel that has been done. the mechanic is pretty certain the bearings are shot. fluids are getting mixed and it is not holding oil pressure. he thinks it can be fixed, but at what cost you don't know until you get it all apart. he is suggesting putting in a 350 5.7 from jasper. will have a 3 year 100,000 mile warranty. the mechanic also likes the th350. thoughts?

as far as how I am going to use the 40. I have a daily driver. I will be driving this a couple days a week around town and doing some trail riding with it. It is two nice to make into hard core rock crawler.

I am leaning to putting a 350 back in, but the thought of a diesel puts a smile on my face. I have a Defender 110 with a diesel and love it!! Looking at this from a $ point a view I don't think I would ever get my money out of a diesel conversion if I ever sold it. Over all the truck is in good shape and got it at a pretty good deal. Just pisses me off that all this crap is happening anyway.

Thanks for the info guys!!
 
My neighbor here in Cary NC has a D110 Tdi - nice truck...I used to have a 1997 D90 and grew up riding around in a Series III 109 diesel that my uncle Juaning had in the Philippines. I loved that truck. My uncle NoNo (yes his name - Antonio so Nio-Nio lol) had a dune beige Fj40 - that is what started this all for me.

You mechanic wants you to buy a Jasper because he works/owns a Jasper dealership. I can't say anything bad about them, but why buy a reman when you can buy a new one. I have doubts about a warranty if the motor is not stock though. Check with Jasper first. I interviewed with them, they wanted me to interview only because I had a German last name. I thought that was a little weird.

Bad bearings don't explain water and oil mixing...

I'd buy a motor from GM if I were you. Put it in yourself.

If you like your LR diesel, buy a used diesel power pack from Auz and swap that in your Cruiser. Slow but reliable and good mpg.
 
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