- Thread starter
- #21
Any particular reason you're going away from OME?
ICON vs. OME
- Thread starter JBHorne
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Any particular reason you're going away from OME?
I don't know how the zerks would be a deciding factor? All you have to do is hit them with some wd-40 or grease them anytime it starts to squick. It all depends on your climate. I will say, that icon is better in a desert setting like yours where there is less water. Call cam at iPor for more info.
JB, what's the issue with the zerks? You've mentioned it a couple of times, but they couldn't be easier to grease.
- Thread starter
- #24
For the rear LCAs the zirks are mounted on the top so they don't get damaged. This means that the rear end must be lifted to support the weight of the vehicle while the LCA bolt is removed and the LCA is lowered to get to the zirks.
This might not be an issue with the front Total Chaos UCAs. I just don't see the need to add a maintence item when Toyota bushings are some of the best.
Also remember that the LCA bending if it gets hit probably saved another component that costs a hell of a lot more from getting mangled. If I wanted stronger LCAs I would just use DOM and beef it up.
For the fronts, with OMEs setup, there is no need for the 1in uniball on the TC UCAs. However with a 3" ICON setup these become necessary I believe.
This is why I asked Marc why he was switching to ICON. I'm sure he has a good reason and I'd be interested to know why (not being sarcastic at all, btw)...
- Thread starter
- #25
Can we get a fender to hub center measurement for both front and rear with an ICON setup as well as an OME. I can measure mine but would need to compare it to a similarly equiped weight wise LC.
what is felt to be the advantage of these aftermarket control arms?
i know they look stronger, but do they actually function better than OEM arms?
i know they are adjustable, but if you are using OME springs, is that adjustment actually needed?
i know they look stronger, but do they actually function better than OEM arms?
i know they are adjustable, but if you are using OME springs, is that adjustment actually needed?
Very interesting, but before thinking about replacing my current OME setup with something with more lift, I'd like to know if there is some kit or anything available to lower the front differential.
I'm quite concerned about the drive shafts longevity as the angles become more critical.
I'm quite concerned about the drive shafts longevity as the angles become more critical.
When I spoke to Cam at Iron Pig, he said there is no kit to lower the diffs. and you wouldn't want to if you could for longevity reasons. I think if you start getting to high than you lose allot of what the suv was designed for. He says you could SAS your truck if you want to spend 15k just to put bigger tires under it. I think with either the ICON or OME set up, you could put 285/75/18 (might rub sway bar) at the biggest. I wish they made a 285/70/18. When my lift get installed next month, the tire shop will have the 285/75/18 on hand to see if it will fit without rubbing. May go with the 275/70/18 if that doesn't work. JB has this size and seems happy with it.
The Icon Coilovers will go up to 3.5" of lift with an aftermarket UCA. You can go up to about 3" with your stock UCAs.
The biggest advantage of going with a coilover like Icon is the superior ride quality on and offroad. They are designed around desert racing technology that is designed for high speed which is what you do on the freeway. It eliminates brake dive, body sway and it is much more reactive to bumps on the road with it's multiphase valving built into it. And you can rebuild the shocks anytime down the road along with adjusting the preload on the spring.
The OME is a nitrogen charged shock with a coil put over the top of it. OME is a very good budget suspension that will last a long time, but it doesn't offer the superior ride quality of a properly built coilover.
The UCAs help with caster correction when you lift your truck over 2". On all the FJ Cruisers that we have done w/o an aftermarket UCA we can get the alignment at the very bottom end of the specs which will do alright on the road but will cause some wandering. All the FJ Cruisers that we have installed aftermarket UCAs the alignment has come back to stock perfectly or at times even greater which doesn't hurt at all. The Total Chaos UCA is the best bang for your buck for the options out there. They use a proprietary poly urethane bushing and a FK unibearing that lasts for a very long time. Maintenance on the poly urethane bushings is very minimal as long as they are installed properly with lots of grease. I would say once a year you would give them a quick shot of grease and that's it.
If you guys have any questions about Icons or Total Chaos feel free to ask me any questions. I am a dealer for both those companies and have very competitive pricing.
The biggest advantage of going with a coilover like Icon is the superior ride quality on and offroad. They are designed around desert racing technology that is designed for high speed which is what you do on the freeway. It eliminates brake dive, body sway and it is much more reactive to bumps on the road with it's multiphase valving built into it. And you can rebuild the shocks anytime down the road along with adjusting the preload on the spring.
The OME is a nitrogen charged shock with a coil put over the top of it. OME is a very good budget suspension that will last a long time, but it doesn't offer the superior ride quality of a properly built coilover.
The UCAs help with caster correction when you lift your truck over 2". On all the FJ Cruisers that we have done w/o an aftermarket UCA we can get the alignment at the very bottom end of the specs which will do alright on the road but will cause some wandering. All the FJ Cruisers that we have installed aftermarket UCAs the alignment has come back to stock perfectly or at times even greater which doesn't hurt at all. The Total Chaos UCA is the best bang for your buck for the options out there. They use a proprietary poly urethane bushing and a FK unibearing that lasts for a very long time. Maintenance on the poly urethane bushings is very minimal as long as they are installed properly with lots of grease. I would say once a year you would give them a quick shot of grease and that's it.
If you guys have any questions about Icons or Total Chaos feel free to ask me any questions. I am a dealer for both those companies and have very competitive pricing.
Sorry I haven't been able to post the "ICON/TC" pics before, work has a habit of interrupting day to day operations.
This is both the front and rear fender to hub measurements. I hope this helps, if not, just let me know what you need.
FYI, The wife just got my VA State inspection done and she caught some grief from the inspector for having my rear tire mounted. He informed her next time they would like to see documentation that the rear bumper lights are DOT approved.
sbly
This is both the front and rear fender to hub measurements. I hope this helps, if not, just let me know what you need.
FYI, The wife just got my VA State inspection done and she caught some grief from the inspector for having my rear tire mounted. He informed her next time they would like to see documentation that the rear bumper lights are DOT approved.
sbly
Is the ICON shocks rebuildable? Because if they are than hands down better than OME and if you notice the shaft is much larger than OME's as well. ICON is coming out with a piggy back Rear suspension as well by the end of next month. I also like the fact, they are adjustable and can be ordered with an IVD coating. My neighborhood shop is ordering my parts and will be installed the Monday after Thanksgiving.
:
:
- Thread starter
- #32
Thanks Sbly...I will have to measure mine and see how we compare.
...wait, that sounds very wrong...
...wait, that sounds very wrong...
Thanks Sbly...I will have to measure mine and see how we compare.
...wait, that sounds very wrong...
Just keep in mind the amount of weight you are carrying versus SBLY's rig
- Thread starter
- #34
Obviosly SBLY has a fair amount more, but I wonder how this effects the lift.
Wouldn't a body lift address all your issues?
It would be simple (if you don't mind tweaking many little things here and there), cheap, no zerks, no maintenance, no additional stress on the driveshafts, no harsher ride...
Maybe your current OME lift + a modest body lift can yield the clearance you need for the 35" tires you want.
I don't know of anyone who has done a body lift on a 200 series, but can't see why it can't be done.
- Thread starter
- #36
What about the steering column?
Depending on body lift size (height?) there are different ways to adjust the steering column. Judging by what I can see in the repair manual, the easiest way to do this would be to extend the “No. 2 Steering Intermediate Shaft”
Of course, there is much more to consider besides the steering shaft.adjustment. It is very likely that the radiator will need to be relocated.Something should be done above the bumpers as well, as now the gap between your ARB bumper and what is left of the original will become larger. This is also true in the case of the rear aftermarket bumper if you have one.
There must be several other things that don’t come to mind right now that will also need some tweaking to fit.
Perhaps the most difficult part will be the relocation/modification or adjustment of the shift lever to accommodate the new body height.
In any case, a mild body lift, together with your current suspension kit and maybe a little body trimming might help you fit the 35” tires you want with the least compromise in mechanical reliability.
Of course, I could be absolutely wrong! That would have to be determined by more carefully studying this idea.
Of course, there is much more to consider besides the steering shaft.adjustment. It is very likely that the radiator will need to be relocated.Something should be done above the bumpers as well, as now the gap between your ARB bumper and what is left of the original will become larger. This is also true in the case of the rear aftermarket bumper if you have one.
There must be several other things that don’t come to mind right now that will also need some tweaking to fit.
Perhaps the most difficult part will be the relocation/modification or adjustment of the shift lever to accommodate the new body height.
In any case, a mild body lift, together with your current suspension kit and maybe a little body trimming might help you fit the 35” tires you want with the least compromise in mechanical reliability.
Of course, I could be absolutely wrong! That would have to be determined by more carefully studying this idea.
Last edited:
SKI DE PROTECTION AMORTISSEUR VDJ 200 PAIRE(PEHD NOIR 8mm) - PROTECTION POUR VDJ 200 - Dream Team Car
that's what I got on mine, they come in black...
- Thread starter
- #39
So Sbly measured his ICON suspension over a year ago and I just got around to measuring my OME.
Sbly's ICON setup:
Front: 21.5 in
Rear 21.5 in
JBHorne's OME setup:
Front: 21.5 in
Rear: 22.5in
I see that my rear is an inch taller than the front, however it really doesn't seem like there is any rake to my vehicle. Keep in mind these measurements are from the fender lip to the center of the hub. The front and rear might be different and be in fact level. I should have taken a level to my slider to see, but oh well.
Very interesting that both setups are the same height. When Sbly and I met at Overland Expo in Amado, AZ, I eyeballed and they both looked about the same. We should have gotten a photo op together or even drove each other's vehicles to (roughly) compare (minus the weight difference), but again, oh well. His LC is black which makes it look taller than my silver (wait....that sounded very wrong...)
Sbly's ICON setup:
Front: 21.5 in
Rear 21.5 in
JBHorne's OME setup:
Front: 21.5 in
Rear: 22.5in
I see that my rear is an inch taller than the front, however it really doesn't seem like there is any rake to my vehicle. Keep in mind these measurements are from the fender lip to the center of the hub. The front and rear might be different and be in fact level. I should have taken a level to my slider to see, but oh well.
Very interesting that both setups are the same height. When Sbly and I met at Overland Expo in Amado, AZ, I eyeballed and they both looked about the same. We should have gotten a photo op together or even drove each other's vehicles to (roughly) compare (minus the weight difference), but again, oh well. His LC is black which makes it look taller than my silver (wait....that sounded very wrong...)
