I need more torque

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The rear axle bearing nut on the Safari needs to be torqued to 325-362 ft lbs. Anyone ever build something like this Torque Wrench extensions to get the job done without spending $1500 on a big torque wrench?http://www.specialpatrolgroup.co.uk/spooky/torque/torque.html

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No. I have used a pipe on a breaker bar when the specs were to tighten the piss out of something though :meh:.
 
X2 :D
 
Monel keel bolts on my sail boat are specced at 350 lbs. A big pipe on the end of the wrench and some cursing worked there...
 
My neighbor Alex ended up modding a 54mm hub nut, cutting the top out of it so it would fit over the axle shaft. He welded a big flat piece of spring steel to the outside of the hub socket. A BFH smacking the spring steel bar snugged it up nicely. So it wasn't quite as pretty or as precise as the tool in the link; but it did the job. When I have more time, I could make some additions to make it more precise.
 
I like your neighbour! :)

Me too. Every block should have a semi retired old school mechanic. He's saved my bacon many times now. Including pressing off the rear bearings without damaging them. At $250 a side for bearings alone, that is much appreciated.
 
The big torque wrenches at princess are quite cheap or call a mobile hd mechanic and give him a $20 or a 6 pack for stopping by on his way home.
 
The big torque wrenches at princess are quite cheap or call a mobile hd mechanic and give him a $20 or a 6 pack for stopping by on his way home.

They are still $299 plus tax. I have a feeling that when repairs like this are done in the out-back, they don't carry a monster torque wrench just for this. The mod I am thinking of doing to what Alex built me would leave me with a bar which would also have other leverage uses.

This has me thinking about additional parts and tools I would carry on a longer expedition. It would be very useful to carry a bench vice. A nice mod to a custom rear bumper would be a mount for the vice to be quickly attached to it. No sense having anything that can create that much torque and nothing to secure it to.
 
Or you can see if you can find a torque multiplier. Call around a few shops they often have them lying around, people are too dumb to know what they are now-a-days. Maybe you can rent one from somewhere.
 
the mechanics in the east call it a 'torque amplifier' but same deal.
 
On my FJ40 I had a 2" receiver hitch mounted vertically on the bumper, both sides. I had a vise that dropped right in, and this same mount worked perfectly for removing Birfields from axle shafts. Kind of a reverse slide hammer
 
Or you can see if you can find a torque multiplier. Call around a few shops they often have them lying around, people are too dumb to know what they are now-a-days. Maybe you can rent one from somewhere.

I hadn't even thought about that. But yes, I was PMed that KMS rents big torque wrenches.

On my FJ40 I had a 2" receiver hitch mounted vertically on the bumper, both sides. I had a vise that dropped right in, and this same mount worked perfectly for removing Birfields from axle shafts. Kind of a reverse slide hammer

Sounds like a nice set-up. Got some pics?
 
I have a torque multiplier in my box at work, if you can wait till Monday i can bring it home. Leave me a PM.
Vince
 
I have a torque multiplier in my box at work, if you can wait till Monday i can bring it home. Leave me a PM.
Vince

Thanks for the offer Vince. However, the job is done and it is all back together. As you can see in the diagram below, either way we had to make a tool so the socket would fit over the axle to tighten the lock nut. All I need to do now is make the tool a bit more precise and work out the math to build a bar to attach to the modded socket where I can attach my torque wrench and be able to hit 350 ft lbs. Thankfully, this is not a yearly maintenance item.

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One last thing, every time you change your disk pads, don't forget to clean and lube the caliper slide pins with "no petroleum" grease. That is what started this whole mis-adventure. I thought my caliper was shot. However, the slide pins were corroded and caused caliper to bind but the caliper piston seal was fine. <The oil was from a leaking axle oil seal.> Just a small crack in the slide pin boot allowed the wonderful liquid road salt to get in and make a mess. The pin also had almost no grease, which didn't help.
 
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don't forget to clean and lube the caliper slide pins with "no petroleum" grease. QUOTE]

i guess regular bearing gress just burns up? Cause that's what I been using :doh:
 
Different system I think. Cruiser calipers are fixed not on slide pins. Maybe if you had GM rear disks.

I'm curious though, why would you have a problem with petro grease on the slide pins. It is a no-no on the hydraulic parts because it causes all the rubber parts to swell, but the slide pins shouldn't be a problem, unless maybe the boot deteriorates?
 
t is a no-no on the hydraulic parts because it causes all the rubber parts to swell, but the slide pins shouldn't be a problem, unless maybe the boot deteriorates?

That's the problem. It causes the boot to deteriorate. Most people don't worry about these things as a new caliper is cheap and easy to get. My rebuild kit (just seals and boots) costs about the same as two calipers for some domestic vehicles. The replacement calipers range from about $200 to over $500 each (depending on where you buy them from). So a little bit of the right grease with every pad change can save a lot of money and time. I just wish I had done this when I got both Safaris.
 

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