I have a gun - a paint gun

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love2fly

Flying the Mountains of the NW
Joined
Sep 7, 2004
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500
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Somthing to share:

Well its that time for the paint to be applied on my 82 FJ45 cab and rear window, side vents, side aprons, brake and clutch pedal housing, windshield, windshield to rear window mounts, and side steps. The fenders, hood, doors, headlight mount will be done in a few weeks.
I did bit the bullet and went with the stock 464 color for this year instead of the dune color I like very much, but the wife likes the 464 and we have had it on a few other cruisers. (She has all the money)
I am a little nervous as I will behind the paint gun doing the work.
I have a good teacher that paints aircraft like no other, but its time for me to step up to the plate and give it a try. The good thing is I will start out on a small piece and if I pass that test I will do the rest, and if I scare him my teacher (friend) he said he will take the gun do it himself.
Anyway its been a long build and we are at the 50% mark the rest will be putting it back to resemble a FJ45.
Wish me luck
:steer:
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Man, must be hard working in such a small shop.:D

What kind of gun did you get?

I have been using an old CH LVLP to do my painting.
 
Painting

Hi Kevin,
Well actually the paint gun is not mine but my friends. the owner of the paint shop. I have been applying the DTM primer with (sorry I do not know the real model name) a gun that holds the paint in a bag. I was told it will be the same one we use today to apply the paint. Seems to go on smooth and work without era. That's all I know. Yes the shop is small, Ha. Doing this between aircraft painting jobs.
That LWB will hopeful get done around august, it is in pieces for repair and a new floor.
:)
Take care
 
I gave up the gun

Well looks as I did good, but out of no guts I surrendered the gun to the pro to complete 85% of the job, and as far as I am concerned it was well worth it.
The single stage 464 paint went on without a hitch and has bought life back into the looks of the cab. We have bumped up the spray dates for the rest of the body parts so they will be done very soon.
We will post the pictures of the cab on Monday after it is picked up.
 
Im Bad

Wow I have failed in my communications. Now for the excuse, work, that's all I can say.
Well since I got the cab back (years ago-ha) I have been assembling it back together in the evenings, thank goodness for long days.
Seems as every time I pull it out of the garage someone stops by and asks what is it.
The rest will see paint on this coming Friday if all goes okay.
Anyone able to trow in some ideas why my E-brake cable will not release when I drop the E-brake handle. I had the E-brake apart foe inspection and removed the shoes and cleaned all the inside up and reinstalled all the components to include a new seal and retaining nut, I adjusted the shoes and called it good but now the cable is hanging. If I push down on the cable as seen in photo the E-drum will turn???
Anyway I will post the rest of the paint work ASAP you have my word.....BILL CLINTON:)
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New paint

:popcorn:More of the New paint.
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Anyone able to trow in some ideas why my E-brake cable will not release when I drop the E-brake handle. I had the E-brake apart foe inspection and removed the shoes and cleaned all the inside up and reinstalled all the components to include a new seal and retaining nut, I adjusted the shoes and called it good but now the cable is hanging. If I push down on the cable as seen in photo the E-drum will turn???

Truck looks great!!

For the e-brake cable, it looks the same as the one in my 79 fj40. I believe, from memory, what causes the cable to retract when the handle is released, is the spring on the end of the cable inside the park brake assembly (the stuff mounted on the back of the t-case). Do you have the brake cable attached correctly to the park brake shoe's lever???
 
I think if you left out the clip #26, you would have the symptoms you are seeing.

If the clip IS missing, I think you would be able to crawl underneath and then move the cable housing by hand in and out of where it enters at the backing plate, it should not do this if installed with the clip.

When you are under there, also make sure the cable is not bound up or pinched on anything.
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E Brake

Thanks about the truck, it will be completed in a week I hope.
As for the E brake
No I remember the "C" clip being in place before closing it up. Yep the cable is routed correctly a I have check it three times.
I most likely will have to drop the drive line and pull the drum to have a better look. The cable when it was out was tested and pulled from one end to the other without any resistance. It just does not release other than when I push the black cap down that screws on the cable end top of the e brake pull handle.
Thanks
 
E-Brake hangs

I will pull the drum this weekend and take a look at those areas mentioned in this thread.
Thanks guys
:cheers:
 
Hand brake

Well I have some unexpected time today from work so I decided to tackle the hand E brake issue.
To make a long story short it turns out that the cable itself was the problem. Being as old as it is I should of known that it may be dry and dirty internally and that's what it was. I took my air nozzle and ran some cleaner into one end as best as possible and quit a bit on what looks like sludge oozed out the other end. After a good cleaning I injected some silicone lube to help coat the plastic internal cable cover. Seems to of worked. Slides back and forth nice.
Installed and all is as it should be. I will later on replace the cable anyway but for now I have a fully working E brake system.
Thanks
:steer:
 
Just an update on the paint progress.
The paint is complete and all turned out as planed,nice.
I found that not a lot of paint shops like to paint cars in pieces, not sure why? This is mainly why I was taking this root in my painting of the FJ45 and all so for the experience too.
I can now say that painting is not just a little sanding and cleaning then just shoot the paint, 99% was (me doing all the work) cleaning, body fill for dents and low areas, sanding with 80 grit, repeating the fill, cleaning, priming (DTM), body fill again if needed, sanding 220 grit, priming again and sanding with 400 grit (wet), seal, and paint. I learned a lot on what goes on before paint, so if you have the time and lucky enough to have a friend in the paint business to help you out and work with you, I recommend giving it a try. If not the $2,000-3,000 paint job by a good shop may be worth every cent. I cut lots of the painting prep work out by having all the parts sandblasted prior witch cut the prep time down by days. Used a gallon of single stage polyurethane 464 color paint with two gallons of DTM , (direct to metal) primer. Pint/primer cost was around $500 at my friends cost. Still better than $2,000-$3,000 or more at a shop. Oh yeah, I did pay my friend for just the paint time when he was in the booth. Not bad.
Took a day and a half just to line up the front cowl and hood on the re-install. The doors are being prepared with the weather stripping and glass. Top is being prepared for new head liner. Waiting for windshield to be repaired for rock chips.
Will be rolling on the roads soon feeling all new.
The only item left will be the LWB repair.
:wrench:
:beer:
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Looks great.

Make sure that the plastic vents that attach to the windshield frame are put on before you attach your roof. The frame needs to be tipped to get them in behind the dash pad. Ask me how I know?

What are you using for a roof liner?
 
Paint

Thanks.
The vents will be installed after the windshield is installed as there is no glass in the frame right now.
I found some 1/4 foam backed auto headliner in one on the sewing shops my wife goes to. Not sure of the color as of now, possibly Tan. I still have the old perforated headliner in good shape, just looks a little worn.
:cheers:
 

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