confused what to use in the diff for my fj62. could not find gear oil that said hypoid on it and the autoparts guy said its the same as GL5?
hypoid or GL5 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter hightide
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Amazingly, the parts droid is correct. GL5 is rated for use in hypoid gearsets, like your Cruiser's diff.
- Thread starter
- #3
gracias jim
wanted to make sure before i screwed up somethin
so if i get a 5gl bucket of api gls5 sae 80w 90 i can use it for the t-case and the diffs without issues?
wanted to make sure before i screwed up somethin
so if i get a 5gl bucket of api gls5 sae 80w 90 i can use it for the t-case and the diffs without issues?
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
IMHO Yes, GL5 is OK to use in our big stupid Cruiser gearboxes & t-cases.
I've been using GL5 forever and observed no problems.
I've been using GL5 forever and observed no problems.
- Thread starter
- #5
on my way to the autoparts!
gracias
gracias
HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
Use synthetic gear oil from Mobil or Amsoil!
It keeps gear temperatures so much lower than dyno.
TB
It keeps gear temperatures so much lower than dyno.
TB
HZJ60 Guy said:
How do you know this? Curious to sort he rat**** from the pepper on things cruiser.
Thanks,
Mike S
HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
How do I know this? Synthetic is eons beyond dyno in it's ability to disperse heat. It lasts (many people say forever) many many times longer too. If of course you keep water out of it.
For some there are arguments about using synthetic oil in engines, but Ive never heard anyone disagree that synthetic gear oil is the only way to go.
TB
For some there are arguments about using synthetic oil in engines, but Ive never heard anyone disagree that synthetic gear oil is the only way to go.
TB
The only knock I have against synthetics is the cost the fact that in *general* synthetics will not clean as well as a good detergent diesel oil.
Othere than that, synthetics win in almost every category.
Now, if there was a good enough oil filter *you* really could do extended interval oil changes with synthetics. Until there is, still need to do oil changes on intervals like everyone else.
My opinions,
Cahil
Othere than that, synthetics win in almost every category.
Now, if there was a good enough oil filter *you* really could do extended interval oil changes with synthetics. Until there is, still need to do oil changes on intervals like everyone else.
My opinions,
Cahil
HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
cahilc said:
Hey Cahill, how can you say that dont clean as well, when its that very fact that makes people fear using the stuff. You know the ole "my engine will spring leaks" bit.
TB
Wouldn't that be "dino"?HZJ60 Guy said:
Synthetics rock except for the filter issue and the cost for people frequently opening things up (t-cases, diffs, trannies). For a varierty of reasons I had to pull my rear third member 3 times one year and the cost of refilling with syn lube was something close to $100.
I run Amsoil in the crankcase which means replacing the filter about every 4K miles. Makes a mess.
yooper
SILVER Star
I run Amsoil in my transfer case and change it annually, but I use cheap WalMart GL5 in the differentials because I change that oil often, at least several times a year, and more often if I do a lot of deep water crossings.
Some of the African safari crews change their gear oil every day because they spend a lot of time with the axles under water.
Some of the African safari crews change their gear oil every day because they spend a lot of time with the axles under water.
HZJ60 Guy said:
TB, the "engine will spring leaks" is because synthetic is slicker than normal oil (comparable label weight). Doesn't have to do with the cleaning or sludge carrying cabilities of the oil.
Now if they had a *chemical* & *physical* oil filter we'd be all set. The problem is the current oil filters are only physical based and don't remove the harmful chemicals that build up in the oil at the same rate whether you are running synthetic or mineral.
Cheers,
Cahil
The majority of harmful combustion by-products will "boil off' from the oil assuming the engine is run hot enough and long enough. This is what makes synthetics appealing because if filtered well they don't lose lubricating efficiency and can be kept in the motor longer. Particulate contaminants and viscosity breakdown are the reasons for frequently changed "dino" lubricants. Address the particulate problem and syns can be used "almost" indefinitely.cahilc said:
A friend of mine commissions large Rolls Royce piston engines used in powerplants and ships. These engines run on LPG (natural gas) and they are lubricated by the one thing RR finds good enough; Mobil1
The engines are filled up when new and the oil is NEVER changed, only topped up as the engine burns a minute amount on every piston stroke. The filters are changed regulary though.
Beware that diesel engines put a extra load on the oil as there is more residues from the combustion left in the piston for the oild to clean up.
I run my Toy diesels on synth oil only. My old 2H 6 cyl diesel was chracling a lot when I got it. Changed to synth and the engine came to life whit less noise and a smoother running. Remember also that if you live i a cold area, the wear on the engine is in the first few minutes after start up. Synt oil is superior for this problem.
Same goes for the gear oil. Much easier and smoother running when cold.
DB
The engines are filled up when new and the oil is NEVER changed, only topped up as the engine burns a minute amount on every piston stroke. The filters are changed regulary though.
Beware that diesel engines put a extra load on the oil as there is more residues from the combustion left in the piston for the oild to clean up.
I run my Toy diesels on synth oil only. My old 2H 6 cyl diesel was chracling a lot when I got it. Changed to synth and the engine came to life whit less noise and a smoother running. Remember also that if you live i a cold area, the wear on the engine is in the first few minutes after start up. Synt oil is superior for this problem.
Same goes for the gear oil. Much easier and smoother running when cold.
DB
Cruisergreg said:
Oil when new is honey colored. After a bunch of miles it is dark caramel. IMO, the change in color is due to sludge.
Just an observation,
Cahil
P.S. I change my oil on two factors, miles & color.
The darker color is largley due to particles of carbon as a combustion byproduct that are so small they pass through the filter but are also so small that they don't really have any impact on engine wear. The darker the oil is the older, but it does not necessarily indicate condition of viscosity.cahilc said:
- Thread starter
- #18
changed gear oil last night. was easy, but would have been alot easier with a pump. i used a hose that attaches directly to the 1gl jug. man my arms got tierd from holdin and squeezing the dam jug. the front diff fluid was green and nasty, but the fluid in the rear looked good. no metal in eather fluid. im buying a pump for next time!
Gracias
Gracias
HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
cahilc said:
Do disrespect meant Cahill (US marshall) but I let the labratory dictate my iol change intervals.
Tom
...I smell a knuckle rebuild...hightide said:
